Hillock outboard lock.

Deefor

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There's next to nothing on the web on these locks and I'm at the stage where mine needs to come off to replace the outboard.

No keys supplied by the previous owner who didn't even know the engine had a bolt lock :rolleyes:.

So, with no manufacturers' info to go on, how the hell am I going to get this lock off ??
 

rob2

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It would help a lot if you could post pictures of the lock. As you say there is nothing useful on the web for guidance. I guess it will be a case of choosing how to get the angle grinder to it to minimize or avoid damage!

Rob.
 

alahol2

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I had one on a previous engine and the 'lock' wouldn't respond to the key. Very, very difficult to break it. If I remember correctly I had to use a cutting wheel in an angle grinder down both sides and across the top until I couuld split it apart.

ps The way it works is that the plastic covered 'lock' part locks over the end of the clamp screw by squeezing a set of ball bearings into a groove on the screw. This allows the lock to rotate around the screw without it undoing.
 

chewi

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I had one on a previous engine and the 'lock' wouldn't respond to the key. Very, very difficult to break it. If I remember correctly I had to use a cutting wheel in an angle grinder down both sides and across the top until I couuld split it apart.

ps The way it works is that the plastic covered 'lock' part locks over the end of the clamp screw by squeezing a set of ball bearings into a groove on the screw. This allows the lock to rotate around the screw without it undoing.

I had one of these.Thankfully I never had to break into it.

as the post above says, it locks by means of the lock mechanism spinning loosely around a locknut on the the clamp screw, denying a purchase with which which to unscrew the clamp screw.

It might be easier to seize the lock onto the clamp screw and unscrew the pair together than to try to grind the whole lot off, which will cause damage to the o/b.

You could perhaps do that by drilling or grinding through part of it, especially the half inch closest to the o/b, but access will be difficult
Alternatively drilling into the end to destroy the lock so as to release the ball bearings from their indentation and the lock might then pull off.

Maybe you could get the horizontal pivot bolt out instead and leave the clamp in situ?

It won't be easy though, they are pretty good locks.

The key is semicircular in section with flats on it. Do be sure you haven't already got it but not recognised it before you get violent.
 

Deefor

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I had one on a previous engine and the 'lock' wouldn't respond to the key. Very, very difficult to break it. If I remember correctly I had to use a cutting wheel in an angle grinder down both sides and across the top until I couuld split it apart.

ps The way it works is that the plastic covered 'lock' part locks over the end of the clamp screw by squeezing a set of ball bearings into a groove on the screw. This allows the lock to rotate around the screw without it undoing.

Thanks for the advice guys so decided to have a go today as the new OB is due to be rigged in the next week.

Wow, what a bitch to remove :eek:.

After taking the advice of a locksmith we use at work, he tried to pick it, punch the lock tumblers out and drill it where upon the drill bit snapped in the barrel :mad:.

Then I got the angle grinder out and cut down both sides of the lock body in 10 minutes. Came away in two halves and job done. Then took a further 20 mins to clean out the OB well.

So if anyone ever reads this thread in the future, DON'T MISPLACE OR LOSE THE KEY OR MAKE SURE THE PO GIVES YOU A KEY :eek::eek:.
 

ghostlymoron

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Sounds like they should go back in production as most outboard locks are rubbish. I use a motorcycle lock and chain which is a deterrent rather than total security. If someone wants to steal your motor, they will. /even if it means cutting the transom off with a chain saw!
 

Deefor

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So now I'm in the position of needing a new lock for my 15hp Tohatsu.

All the bolt type locks I've seen are designed to fit over the nut end Inboard/well end?) of the OB mounting bolt. That's great but it still leaves the head of the bolt exposed on the transom which can be simply ground off :confused:.

The Hillock went over the OB transom mounting screw, the bolt that has the wing nut or similar on it, so you have no choice but to attack it from the well as there's no bolt head visible on the transom.

Great idea but I'll probably end up with a slot lock AND a bolt lock. That's unless I'm missing the point with bolt locks and someone can enlighten me?
 
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