Here we go again! Engine Misbehaving...

MystyBlue2

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Hello again, i was out yesterday and the engine starts fine on the drive first turn of the key from cold on the muffs but was a right pig to get started in the water!

Was nearly a pack up and go back home job but it finally fired up...with huge plumes of smoke from the exhaust.

Then in forward tickover coming out of harbour the motor was running rough even after a good 5 min warm up on high idle tickover lever to clear the flooded cylinders,

Once out of harbour as i was increasing RPM'S there was alot of hesitation and spluttering but she got up on the plane and we where on our way, We made it to our 3mile wreck mark and on decreasing RPM'S and slowing back down to tick over it ran extremely rough, Coughing and spluttering and died...It always starts straight back up on idle in neutral and does the same thing repeatedly.

Now i was suspecting my idle speed was too low so i tuned the carb to manual specs whilst in forward gear in the water under load but made no difference apart from RPM'S where too high when selecting neutral. And would crunch when selecting gears so i decreased back down again.

Im suspecting (Could be way off) But an air leak on the fuel system or a vacuum leak in either intake manifold (reed housing) and also carb gasket as i have had these parts removed before and DIDN'T renew the gaskets. Also maybe a sticky needle valve, Carb float is set at factory spec and all orifices have been thoroughly cleaned multiple times over and needle valve tip is still nice and pointy.

Carb was stripped to be cleaned and rebuild with original parts as nothing seemed out of place so didn't use new rebuild kit. The mixture screw is set to 1.5 turns from lightly seated.

Primer bulb does go softer once engine is running but does not collapse, no fuel leaks anywhere from tank to under the cowl, everything is bone dry. And yes the tank vent was open.

Any other ideas on what could be causing the bogging/Rough running/Hard starting in the water/ And dying from high RPM back to tickover?

Dont think its anything major or anything to worry about its just one of those annoying issues that can put a downer on a otherwise perfect days fishing, but if it is a air leak i need it identified and fixed so i dont run with a lean condition and ruin a perfectly good engine.

Cheers folks ?
 
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You could carefully try spraying easy start around gasket areas and a rise in rpm will tell you there is an air leak ?
 
You could carefully try spraying easy start around gasket areas and a rise in rpm will tell you there is an air leak ?
Sorry i forgot to mention....I did this with some carb cleaner and the engine started to bog slightly, Not alot but did make an audible differance.
 
Actually looking online at the carb rebuild kits...the needle valves have a wire clip from the bottom of the needle valve to connect to the float tab...mine does not have this "Clip".

Do you think this missing "Clip" could be causing the needle valve to misbehave and not work with the float properly?

Everything else checks out perfectly and looks brand new apart from this.
 
You can strip and clean a carb multiple times and no effect. Then once more you clean and it runs perfectly ?
The needle valve has to be pressed shut by the float ,usually with metal tabs on the float.
Float height is important.
 
You can strip and clean a carb multiple times and no effect. Then once more you clean and it runs perfectly

Yes, this. Also do not underestimate the benefits of a full carb rebuild kit. Judging whether something is worn by eye is simply not possible. Taking an unfamiliar carb apart and seeing whats wrong by eye and intuition is dark magic and not possible imo.
 
You can strip and clean a carb multiple times and no effect. Then once more you clean and it runs perfectly ?
The needle valve has to be pressed shut by the float ,usually with metal tabs on the float.
Float height is important.
Yeah looking online that "Clip" on the needle valve seems to keep the float in constant contact with the needle to keep it all synchronised. Im guessing seen as my metal clip is missing....My float is pushing the needle up but as the float falls back down the needle is staying up high as they are not really connected by this "Clip".
 
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