Helping a fellow stranded boater at sea

LionsDen

LionsDen

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How many fellow forumites have on board suitable rope for towing a fellow boater to a safe haven.

If so what length do you have assuming your boat is 15 metres long - I was looking to purchase a single rope around 45 metres so will that be long enough x 20mm thickness braid on braid to reduce the snatching effect :confused:

If your mooring line is 18mm then what thickness of tow rope would you have on board assuming your boat weighs 15 tonnes for example.

Lastly would you use braid on braid to reduce the snatching effect.


Thanks All

Terry
 
Can't help with thickness recommendations but I carry a 100m length of 16mm rope on board, kept in the lazarette in a special bag as an emergency towing rope.

In fact I keep it in case of needing a tow, rather than for towing others, to help avoid the potential claim of salvage against my vessel.
Of course I would be happy to use it for helping out a fellow boater should the situation arise, however the primary reason was self preservation.

Bought at a boat jumble but it was the right length, thickness, condition and price so well worth having.
 
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Trundlebug said:
Can't help with thickness recommendations but I carry a 100m length of 16mm rope on board, kept in the lazarette in a special bag as an emergency towing rope.

In fact I keep it in case of needing a tow, rather than for towing others, to help avoid the potential claim of salvage against my vessel.
Of course I would be happy to use it for helping out a fellow boater should the situation arise, however the primary reason was self preservation.

Bought at a boat jumble but it was the right length, thickness, condition and price so well worth having.
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Would you double up the rope i.e port to port etc so only 50 m overall length or just use a single rope with a Y at either end to maximise the length = less chance of the towed boat running into your stern.
 
Can you not just use your longest mooring rope?

We towed a broken down mobo in from mid Southampton Water to Hamble.

I used our longest mooring rope that we used for long spring lines & for mooring to the old piles at Yarmouth. I ran it to him single strand only. Also, he was smaller than us which is probably the norm when towing. I think that the single strand helped a bit because it gave a bit of spring, and so lessened snatching.

I thought that if the rope was strong enough to hold us on a mooring (often on a pile one only has one rope going to it), then it would be strong enough for a tow. We had to shorten it a quite a bit when we were unloading him on the hammerhead at Port Hamble. That was the trickiest bit because I was a bit worried that he would run into the back of us, so had to take it really slow.

Garold
 
LionsDen said:
How many fellow forumites have on board suitable rope for towing a fellow boater to a safe haven.

If so what length do you have assuming your boat is 15 metres long - I was looking to purchase a single rope around 45 metres so will that be long enough x 20mm thickness braid on braid to reduce the snatching effect :confused:

If your mooring line is 18mm then what thickness of tow rope would you have on board assuming your boat weighs 15 tonnes for example.

Lastly would you use braid on braid to reduce the snatching effect.


Thanks All

Terry
Click to expand...

I carry more rope than Jimmy Green stock levels, one can never have enough o/b & yes i did tow a 42 footer with my Contessa 32. It did make the 12hp engine grunt a bit
 
We have towed another vessel to safety and it was bigger than us - but not the massive difference SM had - we had a 37'er and towed a 44'er.

We just used our mooring line which IIRC was 14 or 16mm - however there was no wind (hence why they needed the tow that far out when they discovered they had no engine propulsion) so the tension on the line was fairly static - once a speed was built up it was easy to keep the towed yacht at our pace - it'll be harder with a mobo due to the extra drag.

I think if I'd needed stronger lines then I would've just doubled up the mooring line with a second or 3rd that we always had onboard - we also had old halyards that could've been used too - or in extremis, run the anchor chain out. But TBH, if conditions are that bad we'd be looking for a professional team to take over the tow asap and would reduce our efforts to holding station or at most, moving away from imminent danger.

The other bit you need to think about is towing points - yachts are easier in so much as they have winches that are designed to take major loads from sheets - the cleats may be ok, but you'd need to be confident of not leaving a hole in your boat - plus you'd need to know your tow line will fit over your cleat!
 
I have a big warp (40m, I think, of 22mm 3-strand) which gets used as a long shoreline, extra anchor warp for deep water, and would be my tow-rope if needed. For the latter purpose, I spliced a slippery stainless thimble in one end. When towing, your stern needs to be able to pivot from side to side, otherwise you won't be able to steer properly. That's why proper tugs have the line fastened well forward, and let the stern swing under it. I can't do that due to rigging and stern rails, so instead of a fixed Y-shaped bridle I would have another warp across my stern threaded through the thimble, which would be free to slide from one side to the other when I turned.

Ariam is fractional rigged (that means the forward sail is relatively small) so my winches are not especially strong. I think my cleats, bolted through hull and deck mouldings, are the strongest points on deck. If I was towing something big, I'd make a bridle from a longish warp that started on a bow cleat, took one turn round a midships cleat, one turn round a stern cleat, through the thimble on the tow line, one turn round the other stern cleat, midships cleat, and made off on the other bow cleat. The single turns will slip enough to share out the strain between all six cleats.

I have a couple of short lengths of chain intended for mooring on rough fish quays that might chafe normal warps. These could be hung on the middle of the tow line as a weight to help damp down snatching, if needed.

The RNLI use a very long, quite thick braided towline, and if towing a small boat they aim to have most of it running through the water. If it rises up from the water and becomes taut, they're pulling too hard.

Pete
 
I carry a 100m drum of (I think) 20mm dia 3-strand, mainly as a tow rope if I'm in trouble. If I found myself doing a big tow of someone else's boat I'd generally start from a position of insisting they use my rope not theirs, not so I can claim salvage but because I know my rope's source and good condition. My logic is that when towing with stretchy rope the risk of damage from a rope failure is generally higher for the towing boat than the towed boat. When a snapped rope twangs it hits the towed boat from the front so occupants likely to be protected by superstructure, whereas it hits the towing boat in the aft deck where there could be people. (Of course if it's just a short tow of someone back to harbour at 3 knots, which is all I've ever done in fact, then any old string will do and on these occasions an alongside tow might be the best choice so you can stick the casualty on a quay)
 
Yup
Towed in a (hush)sailor whose gearbox had failed about a month ago, against a strong spring tide.
Just joined 2 of the longer mooring warps to give about 50m and made up a bridle across my stern cleats to spread the load.
no big deal, the fun bit was entering the marina across the tidal flow.
 
From my experience its easy to use a decent three strand acting as a bridal from your stern cleats 30m is lots, (midship as well to spread load if towed boat is heavy) then just tie their anchor in the middle of it, this act as a great shock absorber and you are pretty likely to have plenty of anchor chain on the towed boat and the anchor which will be nice an secure. Just remember to slow gently, not good for the towed boat to run over its own anchor chain :-) Don't ask how I know.
 
I had just come back up from Salcombe and stopped in Lulworth for a break before heading on to Southampton, when I heard CG asking if anyone was around to give a tow. No one answered , so I thought I had better. It was some scruffy sailing boat with a bust engine who sort of demanded I took him to Weymouth, 180 degrees the wrong way, and at 5 knots instead of 35 was going to make for a very long day indeed. In relation to your post, the first issue was what the hell was I going to tow with, bearing in mind my tick over speed was probably faster than his cruising speed. Then I saw a fair sized displacement boat sneak out of Lulworth heading for Weymouth, so I sped over and explained I was actually going the other way,had a few hours yet to do, wasn't exactly the right boat for the tow and could he step in. "No.. I might miss the bridge". And off he went.
In fairness after about a mile, he turned round and did come back and apologise.
So I never did resolve the rope question. I guess I can only tow boats where, frankly, it makes sense.
 
I have taken small boats in tow so 25ft with a 48ft as tow boat not so bad using 18mm mooring lines.

A few years back when I has a 36ft boat I took a 46ft flybridge in tow using good condition nearly new 18mm 3 strand nylon mooring line, I only towed about 2 miles without a problem but the rope was knackered at the end and I put it in the skip.

It looked as if each of the three strands had tried to turn the wrong way and it would not lay well or go back.

I now have a towing bridle and about 80ft of 20mm 3 strand in case.

My problem is that I have a dinghy on snap davits on the swim platform and a hydraulic gangway , If I do a serious tow from both stern cleats using a bridle I will either have to tow the dinghy or pull it on to the bow.
 
Bandit said:
I have taken small boats in tow so 25ft with a 48ft as tow boat not so bad using 18mm mooring lines.

A few years back when I has a 36ft boat I took a 46ft flybridge in tow using good condition nearly new 18mm 3 strand nylon mooring line, I only towed about 2 miles without a problem but the rope was knackered at the end and I put it in the skip.

It looked as if each of the three strands had tried to turn the wrong way and it would not lay well or go back.

I now have a towing bridle and about 80ft of 20mm 3 strand in case.

My problem is that I have a dinghy on snap davits on the swim platform and a hydraulic gangway , If I do a serious tow from both stern cleats using a bridle I will either have to tow the dinghy or pull it on to the bow.
Click to expand...

it raises the question of risk to tow boat and crew in every way
 
Well now, towing can be fun and not! I've assisted in two tows as towing vessel. Also been on an inshore Rib life boat tow trial with a 25+ ton Squadron 56 off Chichester. And also been towed on a 30ft sailing cat by a RN Minesweeper. :cool:


In reply to OP

1. Choice of rope will be dependent on size of tow. 3 ply Nylon will allow stretch, so good for shock load, ropes that float like a ski line generally have no stretch. Braid on Braid, less stretch and soft to handle benefit is not a requirement. Also when damage occurs it can be less obvious.

2. Length of line will depend on sea state, longer in waves, shorter in an estuary or say Southampton water. Also difference in size of stricken vessel. Too large can be a worry for obvious reasons, afterall we don't run tugs. Too small and you can damage it, better to damage lighter lines than cause injury to said vessel or its crew.

3. Bridle across stern cleats, will spread the load on the cleats and will also allow close to normal steering if the tow line is able to slide from side to side, adopting a centre of drag (like gravity) Choose your knots well. If your need to extend your tow line, use a double sheet bend, it is absolutely the right one. It won't slip even if the ropes are of different sizes and it will remain easy to untie afterwards. A bowline is good a slip ring on the bridle, even better if locked. Don't use granny knots. use their cleats as cleats to ensure that you can get released and better still keep control of the release on your boat if possible by bringing the ropes back to yourself as towing vessel.

4. If towing any distance, tow in line astern, it's far less stressful as fenders aren't required and you can make better speed. If you then need to bring the vessel along side a quayside then change to an 'along side' tow. Be sure to fender up stay near the aft end of the vessel your towing especially if you're smaller as this will allow you steer the other craft as you will have control of her stern.

5. Make sure you communicate well before getting too close! Also maintain VHF comms if possible so that the other skipper will know your intentions. If not confirm and agree hand signals. If the skipper is inexperienced, you could get damaged or even worse damage the other boat. I hate to say it but I put a hole in the minesweeper once when he came too close to me having shot a light-line over my bows. :disgust: (I was making way under backed storm jib in a F7 with no rudders, honest):ambivalence:

6. Be gentle on taking up slack, get a crew member (if you have one) to act as observer as on a ski boat. Any change of speed must be made gently. Optimum speed becomes a natural feel. If you tow a sailing vessel to fast, it will be obvious, they tend to get deeper in the water. At ultimate speed, the bow wave approaches the bowsprit / anchor. This is too fast, you will know by the crews fascial expressions, don't ask me how I know this!:o

The nice thing is that you will have helped someone out of trouble and they are usually extremely grateful, hic.:ambivalence:
And it also ticks a boat handling box, satisfying too if accomplished safely. :encouragement:

RR
 
gjgm said:
I had just come back up from Salcombe and stopped in Lulworth for a break before heading on to Southampton, when I heard CG asking if anyone was around to give a tow. No one answered , so I thought I had better. It was some scruffy sailing boat with a bust engine who sort of demanded I took him to Weymouth, 180 degrees the wrong way, and at 5 knots instead of 35 was going to make for a very long day indeed. In relation to your post, the first issue was what the hell was I going to tow with, bearing in mind my tick over speed was probably faster than his cruising speed. Then I saw a fair sized displacement boat sneak out of Lulworth heading for Weymouth, so I sped over and explained I was actually going the other way,had a few hours yet to do, wasn't exactly the right boat for the tow and could he step in. "No.. I might miss the bridge". And off he went.
In fairness after about a mile, he turned round and did come back and apologise.
So I never did resolve the rope question. I guess I can only tow boats where, frankly, it makes sense.
Click to expand...

I have only been boating for a couple of years and have not, as of yet, been asked to give a tow. Reading the piece from gjgm has annoyed me enough to make a comment. If you are unlucky enough to break down at sea and lucky enough to be offered a tow, perhaps a bit of civility and gratitude at being towed to the nearest safe haven would be in order. If what happened to gjgm were to happen to me, assuming no danger to life, then you can sit at anchor until the tide goes out as far as I would be concerned.
There, got that off my chest!!!
 
LionsDen said:
How many fellow forumites have on board suitable rope for towing a fellow boater to a safe haven.

If so what length do you have assuming your boat is 15 metres long - I was looking to purchase a single rope around 45 metres so will that be long enough x 20mm thickness braid on braid to reduce the snatching effect :confused:

If your mooring line is 18mm then what thickness of tow rope would you have on board assuming your boat weighs 15 tonnes for example.

Lastly would you use braid on braid to reduce the snatching effect.


Thanks All

Terry
Click to expand...

As a coded boat I'm bound to have a tow rope. In common with many, the kedge warp does this job.

I once did an 8 hour tow! Mid channel to Dartmouth.
 
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