HELP!!! Sterling split charge diode problem

simon_sluggett

simon_sluggett

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Hello all
Anyone out there know about these and how to test one to see if its faulty. I have connected it up according to the instructions but the starter wont turn. Everything worked fine before I fitted the splitter. My only concern is the wiring diagram shows the input current coming direct from the alternator but on my Yanmar engine the charging current comes via the starter solonoid on the starter and not directly from the alternator. I checked the starter by disconnecting the splitter and joining the starter battery cable and the charging cable and starts OK. Am I missing something????
I dont want to contact the lovely man at sterling without checking out all possibilities first. Thanks
 
Disconnect the lead that goes from the back of the alternator down to the starter solenoid at the solenoid end and connect it to the diode charge in terminal then connect a charge lead from the charge out terminals on the diode, one to each battery (bank).

Your charging now goes through the diode and not through the off-1-both-2 switch.

From what you described you put the diode in the start lead so no power to the starter solonoid or motor.

If you follow the instruction that came with the diode and don't mess with the starter cables or any other, wiring for that matter, it will work.
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hammer.thumb.gif
"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
 
Hi Cliff
There is no 1,2,both switch, I have three cables from the +ve of three batteries to the 3 charge out terminals and one cable from charge curcuit to the one charge in terminal. If I bypass the diode splitter and connect the charge circuit cable directly to starter battery cable it turns starter ok as it should do. Though the wiring diagram shows the charge in cable coming directly from the alternator this maybe just a simplification of things.Or maybe I need to change something on my wiring as you said. I also have an sterling alternator regulator fitted which has worked fine before fitting the diode splitter. Is it possible to damage a diode charge splitter if wired incorrectly like an alternator ?
 
I think, as Cliff said, take the lead off the starter solenoid, but leave the solenoid connected as is, and put the removed lead onto the splitter. You may have to either extend that lead or replace it.

What you have been doing, is putting a "blocking diode" between the battery and the starter solenoid.
 
Don't Panic!

Switch OFF the engine BATT ISOlator switch and remove the key (if it's one of those types) that way you know the circuit is dead.

Put everyting back just the way it was before you started. Now try your engine - Cough? Splutter? - wonderful!

Ok - at the moment (originally) the charge OUT from the alternator is going to the BATT + terminal on the starter motor.
(this is the usual way to charge the ENG battery - you use the big heavy cable that someone was kind enough to donate.)

Disconnect the alternator charge OUT cable going to the BATT + terminal on the starter motor - at the starter motor end - hold it in your hand and bolt up that terminal again. (You won't be going back there.) - the cable should be somewhere in the region of 10 to 16 mm square - i.e. it's not a huge battery cable.
If you have a huge battery cable in your hand - it's the wrong one.

Connect the end of the cable that you have in your hand to the IN terminal of the DIODE. - STOP!

If you are feeling brave - you can at this point remove / pull off the D+ terminal at the alternator. (it is going to have volts on it in a second so make sure you insulate it.)

Switch on the engine BATT ISO and "cough" the engine - i.e. just kick it over but don't start it. - Coughed? - superb! We now know the engine is going to fire.

OK - ISO switch back off and Key out.

Connect the alternator D+ cable back to where it came from -

(The reason for doing the D+ thing is that this cable stops the alternator from actually producing anything if the engine should actually start - the alternator will spin round, but it won't get hurt) Try that without removing that D+ cable and with no battery load connected and you start fishing for your credit card. - new alternator!

So we have the cable about (10 or 16 mm) coming from the alternator B+ / BATT / BAT / + terminal and now going directly to the DIODE IN terminal of the splitter.

You are home and dry! -

Fit a new cable from DIODE OUT 1 - back to the BATT + terminal on the starter motor ... (that's right - the one I said you weren't going to go back to!) ... (Now that's not true - they were married!) ...

We now have a loop - ALT OUT - DIODE IN - DIODE 1 OUT - STARTER BATT + ... so we are charging the ENG battery at exactly the same point as originally. Super!

It's a piece of cake now - Connect a new cable from DIODE 2 OUT to the + terminal of your SERVICE battery. Good!

If you have a third battery bank - connect a new cable from DIODE 3 OUT to the + terminal of the 3rd battery bank.

Have a G&T

regards

Brian
 
excellent - well explained - that'll work..

test the output though - these little devils will drop the voltage a we bit. may be worth turning up the voltage on the regulator if you can

cheers

Ian
 
[ QUOTE ]
Fit a new cable from DIODE OUT 1 - back to the BATT + terminal on the starter motor ... (that's right - the one I said you weren't going to go back to!)

[/ QUOTE ]Same thing as connecting the DIODE OUT 1 directly to the +ve terminal of the battery (without removing any other leads such as the starter lead.
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hammer.thumb.gif
"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
 
[ QUOTE ]
I dont want to contact the lovely man at sterling without checking out all possibilities first. Thanks

[/ QUOTE ]

ROFL.

Have you ever tried it?!
 
Brian
Clearly you know your stuff ,your instructions are excellent.I can picture the cables and connections you describe so I have some confidence to try it out. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and hopefully it will be sorted out now.
 
'Twas a pleasure

..... YES YES YES ... I know .... but I wasn't trying to write a book.

The external alternator management pack (I think there is one fitted) will take care of the volts drop automatically if it's connected to the SVC Batt - so I don't have to bother about that one.

...and Yes I'd go straight back to the DEAD side of the ENG batt ISO personally - but I was trying to keep it simple and also give a mental picture of what was being done - going back to the same place you came from gives you that picture.

... why the DEAD side? Why do we have isolators? If the switch goes faulty the engine isn't going to turn round anyway - so no alternator output - if there is a problem requiring the ISO switch to be operated - KILL the circuit means just that.

regards all

Brian
 
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