Help sought with crimp lugs 25 sq mm please

Tool hire shop... Proper hydraulic jobber. We did all our new battery lugs, main fuse connections etc in a couple of hours last winter. Well worth the £20 or so that it cost.
 
I bought one of these when I fitted new battery banks, VSR's etc.... cheap and cheerful, very easy to use, and it didn't break.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xhydraulic+battery+terminal+crimper&_nkw=hydraulic+battery+terminal+crimper&_sacat=0

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I'm fitting a windlass and need a crimping tool for 25 sq mm lugs for a couple of hours as mine only goes up to 16 sq mm.
The boat is at Southwick (Brighton), is there any kind forumite locally who could lend a tool or pop in and crimp them for me if I get it all ready ahead, or does anyone know where I can hire reasonably please? I can only find huge hydraulic ones to hire at ridiculous cost.
Thanks.
PM'd

Boo2
 
Any of these devices work with 40mm wire? The links I have followed are to crimpers which go from 35 to 50mm without a step in between.

I went up a size (35mm suggested by Lofrans) and am just about to install the new windlass.
 
I bought one one of these: http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/0-703-90-heavy-duty-crimping-tool-8109.html you can squeeze in a vice or use a heavy hammer to crimp the lugs. I also then solder using a small bloworch, and then shrink a cover over the connection.

This type of crimp pattern is used on heavy duty hand held crimpers so will be absolutely ideal for the job. If I'd seen these when I spent 100 odd quid on a professional crimper which does exactly the same I'd have jumped at it.
 
A number of bodges being advocated here :(. Just because the lug doesn't fall off the end of the wire doesn't mean it's a good airtight joint suitable for carrying hundreds of amps.

I have one of the hydraulic sets as shown by Comrade Red. Cost about £25 from eBay a few years ago now, and worth every penny several times over. Although I did find that the dies on mine didn't seem to match the cable sizes marked on them - I use one size smaller than the marks would suggest and get a good solid crimp. When I first got it I made a test piece and sawed it in half - the cut edge looked like a solid metal bar.

Pete
 
Any of these devices work with 40mm wire? The links I have followed are to crimpers which go from 35 to 50mm without a step in between.

I went up a size (35mm suggested by Lofrans) and am just about to install the new windlass.

I'd never heard of 40 sq mm cable but I see it comes up in BS6862 specifically as a vehicle battery wiring cable. It goes 25 - 40 - 60 whereas normal power cables go 25 - 35 - 50 sq mm.
I can't find anyone doing 40 sq mm crimp lugs or tools that list that size. I wonder if it will squeeze into a 35? There is quite a bit of clearance particularly if you get the flared end ones intended for flexible rather than 7 strand cable.
What does your cable supplier say?
 
A number of bodges being advocated here :(. Just because the lug doesn't fall off the end of the wire doesn't mean it's a good airtight joint suitable for carrying hundreds of amps.

I have one of the hydraulic sets as shown by Comrade Red. Cost about £25 from eBay a few years ago now, and worth every penny several times over. Although I did find that the dies on mine didn't seem to match the cable sizes marked on them - I use one size smaller than the marks would suggest and get a good solid crimp. When I first got it I made a test piece and sawed it in half - the cut edge looked like a solid metal bar.

Pete

Yes, that's my concern with suggestions of mole grips etc. I have tried various ways and when you cut through the crimp, there is always air space visible. As you say, properly crimped it will look like a solid bar (with faint lines on at the interfaces). The pressure deforms everything and squeezes it together intimately. I don't think it actually cold welds it as someone suggested though.
 
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