Help, sea cock identification

[Madhatter]

My head seacock is a bit poorly and needs to be removed but after removing internal surrounding epoxy (?) down to wood backing , undoing 3 nuts the darn thing is still solid even after firm tapping and trying to prise up with screwdriver it won't budge.There is no means to turn it outside any ideas please
View attachment 34786

 

[JAYEL]

Looks like a blakes to me. If you are out of the water,stick a socket set extensioin up the water inlet and give it a sharp blow with a hammer, Clean both surfaces and coat with seacock grease. Job done!

 

[Mistroma]

It looks like the old (& good) style of seacock. You shouldn't need to remove it to free it up (unless all else fails). Tighten the nuts back up again.

I assume that the boat is ashore and out of the water and it looks as if you have already removed the 2 retaining set screws across the top.

The centre section is tapered and can usually be tapped out by putting a metal pipe or similar in the outlet and tapping it (not too hard) with a hammer. WD40 or similar will sometimes help or heating the outer part with a heat gun prior to tapping.

I hope that this helps.

 

[sarabande]

if the base is solidly connected to the boat, then you need to fettle the moving parts only.

Have a look at this

www.equipment.ath.cx/instrument_pdf/Blakes/seacocks.pdf‎

to get an idea.


And VicS and others have gone into great detail previously.

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?169063-Blakes-Seacock-Problem

 

[Tranona]

That is a cone type probably made by Rowe. No need to remove the housing, just knock the cone upwards, clean, grind in if necessary and reassemble with Blakes grease.

 

[Madhatter]

Thank you all for your help, I will go now and give it a try

 

[VicS]

Thank you all for your help, I will go now and give it a try

Use a wooden drift, bit of broom handle or similar, rather than anything metal which might damage the cone, to knock it out.

Also use a decent sized hammer. Gentle taps with a heavy hammer will be more effective and less like to cause any damage than wanging away with a small one.

 

[cliff]

Gentle taps with a heavy hammer will be more effective and less like to cause any damage than wanging away with a small one.

+1 - "wanging" away with a little one is a waste of energy. Couldn't agree more - a good sharp tap with a 4lb club hammer usually works for me.

 

[Madhatter]

I have wacked it , heated outer case, dieseled it , still not moved .
Do I wack it harder with broom handle and lump hammer ?? ( at my own risk of course )
more pics :-
View attachment 34801View attachment 34802View attachment 34803

 

[Tranona]

I have wacked it , heated outer case, dieseled it , still not moved .
Do I wack it harder with broom handle and lump hammer ?? ( at my own risk of course )
more pics :-
View attachment 34801View attachment 34802View attachment 34803

Assume you are whacking it from outside. It will be deposits that are holding it back. Try some Plusgas. Heat won't do much as the body and cone are the same material. Suggest you loosely attach the keep plate as once you break the seal the cone will fly up. Tapping the handle round may assist breaking the seal. Patience will pay off!

 

[Madhatter]

YES,YES, the little b'stard is out, boy what a big wack it needed, anyway done and dusted, thank you all for advice/support.

 

[rob2]

This reminded me of removing one from a friend's boat. I sent him into the clubhouse to make some coffee and hit the (wooden) drift with a sledgehammer, put an end to two hours of trying! When reassembling, only tighten the locking plate sufficient tot stop the cone from jumping out, or you'll be doing it all again. I found that gentle hand tightening was enough. - no spanner needed.

Rob.

 

[Madhatter]

This reminded me of removing one from a friend's boat. I sent him into the clubhouse to make some coffee and hit the (wooden) drift with a sledgehammer, put an end to two hours of trying! When reassembling, only tighten the locking plate sufficient tot stop the cone from jumping out, or you'll be doing it all again. I found that gentle hand tightening was enough. - no spanner needed.

Rob.

Noted , thanks Rob