Help required restoring traditional clinker

neilf

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8 May 2007
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argyll
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Hi,

I am looking for some advice with regards to a clinker motor boat (14 ft) that my father built ( around 1970 ), which I have now managed to take possession of after he sold it a number of years ago.
Unfortunately, she has been left outside and unused for quite a while, and I will probably have to replace some planks - can anyone advise where to source larch planks ( closer to argyll would be preferable, but not critical!)
Also, any advice on treating the remaining planks ( as they are quite weathered) would be great.

Thanks in advance

Neil
 
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Hi, and welcome to the forum.

Is your boat currently painted or varnished? What sort of condition is the coating? If it's in poor nick then it'll probably have to come off by scraping and sanding. In a clinker hull this has to be the worst job ever. You didn't want to know that really.
I'm currently replacing some ribs in my clinker halfdecker which has given me a chance to scrape and paint through.
Any chance of some pictures?
 

neilf

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Hi, and thanks for the replies - I've found some more places on the web using "boatskin larch" as the search.

The boat was varnished all her days, but has sufferered due to the weathering. I'm prepared for the work, as she needs a lot of attention ( and will need to scarf a few planks), and was wondering as how to best preserve the remaining planks. The ribs are in pretty good shape, however the gunwales and top plank ( mahogany, I think) are shot, as are some of the other oak pieces ( knees etc).
I'll get some pictures when the weather dries up here!! - and I'll also need to get her under cover, as she's only covered with a tarpaulin at the moment.

Again, thanks for the replies.
 

ccscott49

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Larch is available at the sawmill in Dunkeld. Good Perthshire Larch, I'm reliably informed, the best. I revived my larch planking with liberal doses of DEks Olye No. 1.
 

Peterduck

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Deks Olje No. 1 is a good product, but must be considered to be a foundation for Deks Olje No. 2, which is the finishing coats. No. 1 is a very thin liquid which will soak into the wood, but No. 2 is a very thick liguid, which will form the thick weather-proof layer which you will need to protect the wood. Follow the instructions of the tin.
Peter.
 

neilf

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Hi ccscott49,

Do you know which sawmill in Dunkeld - I've tried phoning a couple that are on the web, but they don't seem to do boatskin larch.

Cheers
 

BrendanS

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swmbo's next door neighbour does professional woodworking and has lots of contacts, and buys wood in bulk, hand picked, so if anyone needs any wood I can ask if he can help.
 

SandyMacLean

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I own an 18ft dinghy, built c1962 by the people who built for the Northern Lighthouse Board. The boat has very fine lines but rot was a problem from the beginning.
Difficulty in finding larch has held me back from carrying out repairs. I actually travelled from Islay down to N. Ferriby to source suitable wood for the transom, and ended up taking Douglas Fir.
I now have a suitable transom but require larch for the planking. In the meantime I am attempting to fit the new transom. The hull has sprung somewhat and I did not wish to break the planking in attempting to cramp the planks on to the transom edge. What are the best fixings for this, what is the best bedding compound? Any ideas of how to pull the planking onto the transom?
 

jhughes

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Use a rachet strap around the hull to pull in the plank ends, you may need to brace across the gunwhales to stop the center pulling in, and fix with bronze screws. Use red lead putty as a bedding compound, see previous postings for recipes.
 
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