Help Required Please

Could the bolt fall and will finish without steering control? been looking at other OB seems they have a nut to secure the bolt to the arm. Confused about this matter and to make matters worse having mixed answer while talking with locals.
 
Yes. In all the outboards I have bought and had professionally rigged, there is always a nut. The casting on the outboards is threaded, so it will work without a nut, but the nut acts as a thread lock to stop the bolt coming undone over time. It's basically a safety precaution.
 
Thanks mate. Should i screw the bolt further up to have more thread for the nut or leave it as it is and screw the nut.? sorry for the questions but never owned outboards and im confused which is the best way. OB is brand new so i should speak to the seller.
 
Yes. In all the outboards I have bought and had professionally rigged, there is always a nut. The casting on the outboards is threaded, so it will work without a nut, but the nut acts as a thread lock to stop the bolt coming undone over time. It's basically a safety precaution.[/Q?
Thanks mate. Should i screw the bolt further up to have more thread for the nut or leave it as it is and screw the nut.? sorry for the questions but never owned outboards and im confused which is the best way. OB is brand new so i should speak to the seller.
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The bolt should not pinch the steering arm. Do do not overtighten. At the same time it should not be loose. There should be a mm or so play to ensure the steering arm is clear between the bolt head, the steering arm and the outboard casing. Once in the correct position, you can add a locknut, or nut with Loctite on it at the bolt end, to ensure the bolt cannot unscrew when you don't want it to.
 
Hard to tell from your picture. Normally there is a shoulder or spacer above the bolt head and beneath the engine tiller arm casting. . This allows you to do up the bolt tight, while allowing the steering link arm (the bar covered in grease in your pic) to move freely. It looks like this is how yours is set up, which is 100% correct. The greasy link arm must be free to move.
IF that is how yours is set up (and it seems to be from the pic but I'm not 100% sure) then do the bolt up tight. And then put the lock nut on the top and nip it up. Do not listen to people who tell you not to do the main bolt tight: it is in a modest fatigue scenario and therefore will be better done up reasonably tight. This reduces the stress amplitude in the metal.
 
I suppose the safe answer is to speak to a mechanic / dealer from the manufacturer for your outboard and get them to advise specifically for your setup (and bolt design). Most dealers I've ever had to speak to are happy to offer a little bit of free advice and yours should be a simple question for them to answer. So give them a call. (You can also ask them for pricing around servicing etc)
 
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