Help needed with Lofrans Airon 12v 1000W windlass

BruceK

BruceK

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DIY going wrong here

Does anyone have a pdf copy of the user manual or alternatively can instruct me on how to service this windlass.

Where and what to grease. (I think I may have greased the clutch because it doesn't grip particularly well any more)
How to put oil in the gearbox (if even necessary etc)
 
Thank you Farsco. I have that manual, it's the only one on the Lofrans website, but it deals with spare parts and installation. No maintenance schedule info in it.
 
Bruce, I know this is an old post and you're a clever chap so will no doubt have figured this out long ago. I people advising on here that the windlass clutch should be greased but that makes no sense to me as you'd lose all the friction! For the record the Lofrans manual linked to above does include the instructions:

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MAINTENANCE

WARNING! = Before operate turn the windlass off at the main switch and remove with attention the chain from the gipsy.
A correct and periodic maintenance operation is essential for the best efficiency of your windlass. At least once every month remove the salt layer, which forms periodically on the outer casting, to avoid electrolysis problems which could prejudice the windlass performances. Wash with a fresh water and clean all the surfaces, particularly in the most hidden points, where salts deposits. We recommended, at least once every six months, to disassemble the windlass gipsy following the instructions below.

Standard version: using the handle unscrew (273), remove (274, 275) then unscrew (217), remove (288 and 289). Remove (276) and extract (277).

Low profile version: using the handle unscrew (285) then remove (286), unscrew (217), remove (288 and 289). Remove (276) and extract (277).

Clean and check all the parts, spray all with CRC 3097 "LONG LIFE" or WD40. Watch if there are no electrolysis traces and grease the main shaft thread.

After a long inactivity period, the electric motor could run slowly. We recommend to check and clear the brushes and replace it if necessary.

We strongly recommend to separate, at least once every year, the windlass from the deck to clean and remove the salt layer under the base.

The gearbox is proper filled with SAE 90 long life oil. If there is a leak of oil from the body, it will be necessary to disassemble and replace the seals. For this purpose, it is available a complete set of seals . At the beginning and at the end of the season, check the motor and control box, removing eventual residues and covering the terminals with grease.

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Note that only the shaft should be greased. I believe the clutch should be sprayed with WD40 to clean it and keep it free of moisture.
 
Hi Pete. No I must have been ultra thick that day. Just the shaft needs greasing. I cleaned out the 2x clutch cones and took some fine emery to it to take out the burrs etc. It's working a treat now.

As for gearbox oil, you would have to dismantle the whole unit. I was advised that the likelihood of it needing oil being a gearbox was low and there was no indication of any leaks. I took that as gospel probably because I could see no easy way of getting mine out without resorting to child labour. I cannot fit inside my anchor locker and dont have particularly short arms either. How they got it in is a mystery. Must have had special tools.
 
Hi Bruce - I have just serviced my lofrans marlin windlass and I think they are similar.
Definate no no on greasing the cone clutch - previous owner on mine did and ended up having to really tighten the top cap to the gypsy to be able to engage the motor (and couldn't undo the cap therefore no free running). fixed that now
as for the gear box - the oil I used was a 80/90 my seals were leaking so went to a bearing factors if they are the same as the marlin there is 2 identical for the shaft of the gypsy and 1 smaller one for the motor - cost £8 - there is an o ring if you really wanted to strip it totally down but if you do separate it - if you take care then this can be used again (this does not really to be done unless the bearing is shot).

to change the seals and the oil just remove the oil seals - drain - put one of the shaft seals in and the motor seal in then top up with your oil where the last seal goes - put that seal in and jobs a good un

jon
 
Thanks for that Jon and Michie.

Yes, definitely no greasing the cone clutches. Mine wouldn't even support the weight of the anchor and chain when on the hard. Had I done this in deep water I really would have been in deep water. At the time I wasn't sure afterall although it doesn't make intuitive sense to grease the clutches I have wet clutches on my bikes and similar for the outdrives and I do have a penchant to be heavy handed with the grease on my boat as it stands. Lessons learnt and all that.
 
Just as a side note - if your seals are not leaking then I would leave it alone.
You would be creating work that doesn't need doing especially removing/refitting the nuts and washers that hold it together in the chain locker
Jon
 
Guys - I'm in awe of the DIY ability to remove and strip these Lofrans windlasses. Mine is a 10 year old Project X2 and its defeated me. Does anyone know an engineer around the Solent that services these units?
Cheers
 
I went to the a r peachment stand and they had the windlass on a stand.
The gearbox looked identical however to say it is the same would be a guess.
You would have to get the drawings and compare or maybe cross reference numbers see if they are the same
 
jon and michie said:
In what way has it defeated you?

jon
Click to expand...

Hi there,
1/ the first thing putting me off is the degree of corrosion of the items that slide onto the "standard shaft" (part 917) immediately on top of the "base" (part 904).
As the photo shows, all these items are virtually corroded away to nothing with the particular concern being that none of the service kits for the windlass show the thick stainless steel bearing (part 903) as being a service item, so it looks like Lofrans assume that these bearings just last forever so are not in the service kit. However, looking at it, the bearing seems to have been eaten away to nothing so it makes me very reluctant to sprise these items off to get into the assembly below the base, which I know needs doing to do the service properly.
2/ I am also concerned that there is a spring mechanism in the works between the Gearcase upper (920) and Gearcase lower (928). I need to get inside those workings to replace several service items but I have seen elsewhere that a specific compressor tool is needed to re-assemble with that spring in the way.
Any insights very much appreciated - can't seem to find any trades that actually service these windlasses (although plenty who are happy to provide a brand new replacement!)
Cheers
Andy
 

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