Help needed on VP DP-E props

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Iwilliams0511

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Hi all,
New to the forum and looking for some expert advice on a VP DP-E leg.
I have a 2001 Windy with a KAD 44 and DP leg.
When I bought the boat it had aluminium props and I now have purchased some stainless type C props.
My question is I am concerned that the old one were not fitted correctly so I am looking for advice on what washers/nuts go on in what order.

Appreciate your help
 
By no means an expert..but likely a good idea to look at a parts diagram for it.
Im fairly familiar with changing or taking b and c series props off and on. To take them off. Usually as below (but double check. This is from memory)

nose cone has a recessed bolt to remove. 13mm I think.
then nose cone will unscrew with a screw driver or the proper prop tool rodded through the holes on it.
the rear prop will then come off along with its assembly. You will then be left with one of two types of retaining large threaded collar nuts, to hold front prop on. There is a locking tab you need to remove first. Then you can remove the large retaining nut. There is a special tool for this officially. But I’ll leave it to your own imagination in telling you it can easily be removed other ways I don’t care to mention for fear of the backlash !
The front prop will then come off. All that’s left on the shaft after that is a spacer washer I’m sure.
Assembly is the opposite with torque settings to be aware off, along with grease on the splines etc.
 
That happened to a guy in my boat club, he was pulling the boat out in the middle of summer as there was oil on the water behind the boat. I was just walking past the slip and had a look for him. The front prop moved back and forth on the shaft as it had chewed through the aluminium hub into both seals. I fitted a new hub for him and he was lucky it hadn’t lost too much oil or the top section would have been damaged. He later admitted he had taken the props off in his barn in winter and carefully laid all the parts on the floor, but the kids had been in and moved everything so he refitted the front prop with the spacer behind it so there was nothing to stop the prop rubbing against the hub.
 
Iwilliams0511 said:
Hi all,
New to the forum and looking for some expert advice on a VP DP-E leg.
I have a 2001 Windy with a KAD 44 and DP leg.
When I bought the boat it had aluminium props and I now have purchased some stainless type C props.
My question is I am concerned that the old one were not fitted correctly so I am looking for advice on what washers/nuts go on in what order.

Appreciate your help
Click to expand...

Hi. When all is done and finished can you please let us know what ali props you came from and what stainless C series props you went to and the rpm difference noted on your boat.
Duo props are doing my head in trying to find the optimum rpm match for my boat and speed where the general 1 inch pitch difference equates to 200 rpm on a single prop just doesn't apply.
 
QBhoy said:
nose cone has a recessed bolt to remove. 13mm I think.
then nose cone will unscrew with a screw driver or the proper prop tool rodded through the holes on it.
the rear prop will then come off along with its assembly. You will then be left with one of two types of retaining large threaded collar nuts, to hold front prop on. There is a locking tab you need to remove first. Then you can remove the large retaining nut. There is a special tool for this officially. But I’ll leave it to your own imagination in telling y
Click to expand...
I do have the special tools used couple of times now for sale parts

  • Inner Prop Removal Tool - Genuine
    21318669 on Key Part for £19.20


  • 873058 tool kit £85.20 on Keypart.
 
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It needs to be spline to get over the splines but still fit the shaft. It's a spacer. It replaces what in the very first incarnation was a failed rope cutter.
 
Iwilliams0511 said:
If I put a spline washer on first surely it will just spin on the shaft?
Click to expand...
That is correct - the special washer will sit in the recess in the prop (usually the washer comes off with the prop) and it will prevent the prop binding on the anode or on the casing of the outdrive. The washer sits against the step in the shaft.

You are presumably replacing the anode.
 
MartynG said:
That is correct - the special washer will sit in the recess in the prop (usually the washer comes off with the prop) and it will prevent the prop binding on the anode or on the casing of the outdrive. The washer sits against the step in the shaft.

You are presumably replacing the anode.
Click to expand...

Thank you, very useful.
Yes I will replace the anode, think it has seen better days ?
 
The spacer wont spin on the shaft once the prop is on in the exact same way a washer wont spin on a bolt once the nut is tightenned
 
It doesn't spin because the things it is in contact with - the shaft, propellor, locknuts are all bound together by the splines plus the locknut.
The only way it would spin would be if all the splines sheared off the shaft or prop.
 
BruceK said:
Hi. When all is done and finished can you please let us know what ali props you came from and what stainless C series props you went to and the rpm difference noted on your boat.
Duo props are doing my head in trying to find the optimum rpm match for my boat and speed where the general 1 inch pitch difference equates to 200 rpm on a single prop just doesn't apply.
Click to expand...
SS props within 1-2 sizes should be within 200 rpm but AL props are different in that they flex more meaning they will be less linear as the torque increases.
 
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A_8 said:
SS props within 1-2 sizes should be within 200 rpm but AL props are different in that they flex more meaning they will be less linear as the torque increases.
Click to expand...

there was a 400 rpm plus (rev maxed out) difference for me / my boat between C3 and C4 and B5 was about 150 rpm coarser than the C4. With C3 I was way under propped and without the aid of SC's would hit 4k rpm within seconds and only manage about 18 knts cruise speed. With C4's I cruise at 24knts at 3krpm but cannot make a full 4 k rpm at Wot. B5's I experienced great acceleration but 34krpm max and was cavitating the root of the prop within 4 hrs use leaving me to believe I was pushing too much torque through it
 
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