rafiki_
Well-Known Member
If you wash it off quickly, it won't work. Let it do its stuff, then rinse well.
Nigel, you don't want oxalis acid lingering on metal parts. You can leave it on grp or wood.
If you wash it off quickly, it won't work. Let it do its stuff, then rinse well.
Mix oxalic acid with wallpaper paste and paint it on-you can avoid the metal parts then. Hose it off after about 5 minutes.
Ref polishing, I find Farecla Profile 300 to be far superior to the G3 /G6/G10 route. You only need to use the one pot rather than do it over and over with different grades as the particle size breaks down as you use it. Make sure you've got a water spray bottle handy to stop it drying out, and add a couple of drops of washing up liquid to the water.
Couple it with a Farecla G-mop on a rotary polisher(search it) and it seems to be the best combination.Don't bother trying the red/blue mops that come with the cheaper polishers as they're too soft and really only for car paintwork. They'll break up in a few minutes.
I did the whole of my rib with Profile 300 and a G-mop after a major refit and it brought it up to an as-new finish from gelcoat that'd had scratches removed with 1000 grit wet'n'dry.
+1 I've also used Profile 300 with great results. It's far better than G3 (which I used to use until I was persuaded to try Profile 300, glad I did) which as you say is designed for automotive applications.
As regards waxing afterwards, any decent car polish will do, you probably already have some at home.
There are as many opinions on wax polish as there are products, but for example all the following have been recommended at some time or other on here: Meguires, 3M, Auto Glym, Mer, Simoniz hard wax, Silverwax, etc.