Help needed 13ft Day Boat, where to start?

[Woodlouse]

I don't know too much about the construction of this boat, I understand it is a diagonal laminate construction.
I my be totally wrong and await to be corrected but the one thing that has not been suggested is to laminate a second skin/veneer on the outside of the hull using the same method as the original.
Or using a modern adhesive i.e. one of the wood glues like Balcaton or a two pack, the new layer could be a Mahogany strips of veneer 2/3 mm thick.
the insides then could be locally attacked with graving pieces let in and glued with the same as used for the outer skin.
Which I think would be a better option than just fibre glassing it over.

Yeah, cold moulding over the outside of the hull followed by Iain C's idea of localised repairs inside with lashings of epoxy could make the boat solid again without too much effort. It would cost a fair bit in epoxy though but would still be cheaper and easier than repairing the inside planking of a double diagonal hull that appears to be fastened only with nails.

 

[Lakesailor]

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I could sell the engine and trailer to recover some cash, but what would I do then? I would be looking for a sub £1000 boat with trailer and engine for weekend use on loch ness and maybe occasional coastal use.

I seem to remember I sold this with a trailer for about £1300.

 

[sarabande]

one point of concern is the lagging round that (Dry ?) exhaust. I have a Stuart Turner which had similar heat protection.


It is possible that it is asbestos cloth, and that will need to be removed very carefully.

Check if it asbestos first of all by examination and testing of the "weave" while wearing a very good filter mask


If it is asbestos, then a PVA adhesive, diluted with a bit of water, must be painted over the cloth to stop fibres floating away in the breeze. Double bag the removed material, BTW, and wear a proper mask and thick nitrile gloves. Dispose of the bags properly - it is hazardous waste.


The ST engine is notoriously a creator of vibration, so engine bearers, shaft and thrust block must be very strongly and firmly linked otherwise a fragile construction will simply shake itself to pieces.


Looking at the new pics, I still think that the inner hull is shot. IanC has pointed out that the capping has let water in. Fresh (rain) water plus old fashioned glue provides a medium for fungal rotting, and if the inner hull (as clearly shown by the pics) is rotting, then the outer hull, which may have a cloth lining, is also likely to be in early (invisible) stages of decay.

I remain pessimistic about any attempt to bring this boat back to a decent standard. I believe the visible rot is indicative of deeper more structural issues.

 

[jamie N]

And your costings for this operation?

NEVER, ever mention the "C"' word again. :disgust:

 

[PuffTheMagicDragon]

Having seen and enlarged the new photos I would say that not only is the inner skin 'shot', I would bet that the face of the stringers that lies against the skin is also attacked by rot.

I hate to say this but, if you really feel compelled to go ahead with this 'project' you need to look at it as an exercise for learning what to avoid in your next purchase.

 

[rob_rs2000]

Thanks for all the comments.

Having had a good poke around with a screwdriver, most of the previous comments where spot on, I would say 50% of the inner wood is rotten. the stringers have clearly been re-enforced in the past, as can be seen in the photos, each stringer has two pieces of wood one rotten and one solid and new looking.

I have, since my original post read many forum posts and blogs about building and restoring boats of this type of construction. So feel that I now have a better idea of how the boat is put together.

So I am now torn between having plenty of firewood for this winter or having a go at a total rebuild.
Maybe this is wishful thinking but I am considering starting the following process with a view to a rebuild and then maybe reassess things if the going gets tough, I would appreciate any comments/tips:

1. Build and fit frames to the more solid stringers.
2. Tip the boat over to rest on frames.
3. Number mark outer planks, in the hope that some can be reused.
4. Remove outer planks, checking condition of the inner planks / stringers as I go.
5. Remove / Replace inner planks/stringers and any other rotten wood found in the process.
6. ?????

 

[Seajet]

Rob,

my best advice would be to take a digital camera - with flash set up - and photograph EVERYTHING from stem to stern inside & out in close detail from every angle as is; should you or indeed someone else decide to restore her these pics will be of huge help.

This will have to be a labour of love for a boat you really fancy, no way financially sensible.

Good luck, in the nicest way !

 

[sarabande]

you may find that Item 4 (remove outer planks) may be difficult in places, with adhesive still bonding parts of the two diagonals together.


On the other hand, they may separate very easily, but also break in small pieces as you do so.

If you get to the stage of replanking with veneers, you will need to cut them on the bias in areas where a lot of twisting is required (e.g. corners).

With just two diagonal skins, a calico or canvas interlining is required. Soak in linseed oil before use.



I still think you are being very optimistic, but have to hand it to you for listening and listing your new objectives. More pics as you proceed will be helpful.

 

[rob_rs2000]

Does anyone here have any idea of the likely origin of a boat like this?

 

[Iain C]

I was in the "go for it" camp but having nearly finished the pain of a wooden rebuild on a boat infinitely sounder than that, I'd probably say for your own sanity don't bother. 50% is a massive amount of rot. And there's probably loads more you can't see.

If you are highly skilled, and can commit to it almost full time, in a decent workshop, and you want to do it just for the exercise of working on a wooden boat, and to hell with the costs and the fact it will take forever, then fine. But I'd say there are far more worthy candidates out there to rebuild.

 

[Tranona]

Does anyone here have any idea of the likely origin of a boat like this?

Quite likely it was based on a wartime design. Lots of boats were required quickly and this method of construction lends itself to factory style production using unskilled labour. All the strips can be machine cut as there is virtually no shaping and can use short lengths of thin timber. The framing is lightweight and can be built over a simple jig. No need for caulking or taking up that you get with clinker or carvel. Equally little attention paid to long life - they were disposable items. Similar designs were built after the war for the same reasons - cheap and did not need skilled labour, until ply and then GRP came along and killed them off.