Help - broken down boat!

petem said:
My partner is onboard and has lost an engine and the other isn't sounding great either (suspect blocked filter). He's currently tied up in Cowes. Can anyone recommend an engineer who might be able to come and have a look?

Alternatively can someone get Ben to give me a call (my mobile number is here - http://www.smartmarine.co.uk/contact-us/).

Cheers, Pete
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Pete

he can call out SeaStart and join at the same time
 
Thanks, just looked and that will be around £250 (membership plus call out fee), not cheap but worth considering if we get stuck.

Just heard from my partner, he's drained some liquid out of the filters and its looking rather rusty so pretty certain it's blocked fuel filters. I assume he'll be able to get some filters tomorrow (plus spares:)) and change them over.

Pete
 
petem said:
Thanks, just looked and that will be around £250 (membership plus call out fee), not cheap but worth considering if we get stuck.

Just heard from my partner, he's drained some liquid out of the filters and its looking rather rusty so pretty certain it's blocked fuel filters. I assume he'll be able to get some filters tomorrow (plus spares:)) and change them over.

Pete
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worth him adding a hi dose of Marine 16 in the tank tonight.
 
petem said:
Thanks, just looked and that will be around £250 (membership plus call out fee), not cheap but worth considering if we get stuck.

Just heard from my partner, he's drained some liquid out of the filters and its looking rather rusty so pretty certain it's blocked fuel filters. I assume he'll be able to get some filters tomorrow (plus spares:)) and change them over.

Pete
Click to expand...

I belong to sea start, £149 a year, and so £100 to fix the issue today.. pretty good all things considered. But not if u are moving your boat to the med shortly and wont need the sea start membership...?
 
Spoke to my partner, three set of filters are on their way to him. He will have a go at fitting them himself (he is an engineer so should be able to figure out what to do).

I'm hoping the issue isn't too bad as it's been running fine for 20 hours or so but will definitely keep an eye on it and have the tank cleaned if necessary.

Incidentally, the Separ primary filters don't have glass bowls so it's difficult to spot any issues in advance. There is a kit to add glass bowls, is this worth considering?
 
petem said:
Spoke to my partner, three set of filters are on their way to him. He will have a go at fitting them himself (he is an engineer so should be able to figure out what to do).

I'm hoping the issue isn't too bad as it's been running fine for 20 hours or so but will definitely keep an eye on it and have the tank cleaned if necessary.

Incidentally, the Separ primary filters don't have glass bowls so it's difficult to spot any issues in advance. There is a kit to add glass bowls, is this worth considering?
Click to expand...

I consider glass inspection bowls essential. Even if you are fortunate enough to have a fuel polishing system. Had a mild bug attack recently and only recognised it because I spotted the filaments accumulating in the glass bowl. How would I have know otherwise? Apart from that is, the engine sputtering to halt. A filter change and a shock dose of Marine 16 and all is well. I check the glass bowl every trip.
 
petem said:
Spoke to my partner, three set of filters are on their way to him. He will have a go at fitting them himself (he is an engineer so should be able to figure out what to do).

I'm hoping the issue isn't too bad as it's been running fine for 20 hours or so but will definitely keep an eye on it and have the tank cleaned if necessary.

Incidentally, the Separ primary filters don't have glass bowls so it's difficult to spot any issues in advance. There is a kit to add glass bowls, is this worth considering?
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Pete, the Separ unit I have fitted has a clear bowl under the filter, but whilst it will help to spot water and allow you to drain off, it won't help with the filter. The fuel in mine was clean, but when I opened up the square filter in the top was black! If you are going to change, perhaps consider one where you can see the filter without opening like I think some of the Racor types. Not sure if you can get diesel filters like this but I'm sure I've seen outboard types where you can see the actual filter through the glass? Either way, spare elements is a must - and more than one! :)
 
The clear bowls are a nice option but not really necessary. You still need to open the drain tap periodically to check for contamination. As you have added marine 16 and it's a new to you boat, I would check every time you go to the boat until you go through a period with nothing but clean diesel coming out. I would also keep checking the paper cartridge in the separ quite often to gauge how much gunk is coming through. Over the winter take the Separ filter units out and strip and clean them really well to make sure there is no bug hiding in any crevices. (petrol works really well)

I have just gone through a similar process this summer, a few wild rides and @ 1000 litres through before all the filters stayed clear.
 
Kas, if I remove the top to check the filter do I need to re-blead?

Also, if changing at sea, is there a technique to avoid bleeding?

I assume you can get away without changing the o rings.

Finally, what's the best source for filters?
 
petem said:
Kas, if I remove the top to check the filter do I need to re-blead?

Also, if changing at sea, is there a technique to avoid bleeding?

I assume you can get away without changing the o rings.

Finally, what's the best source for filters?
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If you get air in you'll need to bleed in most cases

I would not use the old O ring.

In-Line Filters https://www.inlinefilters.co.uk/
 
petem said:
Kas, if I remove the top to check the filter do I need to re-blead?

Also, if changing at sea, is there a technique to avoid bleeding?

I assume you can get away without changing the o rings.

Finally, what's the best source for filters?
Click to expand...
My 0.02 p worth
Pete dirty filters are a show stopper .
In an ideal set up it needs to be easy @ sea rolling around to access and change ---maybe quickly too .

I find the Racor type canister those with a T bar and flat lid the best .FG 500/900'series
They centrifuge the fuel and the water and crud is spun to the bottom of the glass bowl underneath , making glass bowl thing usefull as intended to spot crud .
We also have Water In Fuel (WIF) sensors too .They allow about 3 inches at the bottom of the glass before the alarm on the dash goes off .

Now the critical bit having established which kit ,is how it's fitted .
Just bear with me --
Racor FG 500. S for your boat ( mine had FG900 ,s ) need to be lower than the tank (s) or as low as possible .
This means @ sea to do a quick change
Turn the tank cock off
Sipn off the T
Lift the lid
Grab the plastic handle lift out the cartridge ( ASAP 30 micron £7-8 a piece carry 6-8 )
Insert a new one ,replace the rubber O ring on the lid and T ( o rings come with cartridge )
Now answering your Q on "bleeding " ---place the lid on start to screw the T ,but just B4 the lid closes open the tank cock
Cos it's below the fuel level -as said mounted low it floods the canister as you tighten = no air lock. = no bleeding .
Ok potential for a bit of diesel spilage in the bilge -sort that later .

As mentioned put installing Racors on the upgrade list -timescale 12/12 ish .

In the mean time dummy run a filter change and carry spares .
I have 6-8 primary 30 microns and a set 4 secondary think 2micron on the engines .

WIF too .
$hit in the fuel and especially water is an injector killer ,which can go large and seriously damage the engine ,

How ever having said all this I realise as an ex owner -- in an outdrive boat ,tight engine room there just may not be enough space to fit low racors and be able to benefit from gravity to skip bleeding ,plus reach the bleed cock under them ,nevermind be able to observe the crud in the bowls.
There's also some obscure fire regs re the glass bowls distance ,heat and what type of fire protection is fitted .
That why some are all metal --in close confined E rooms .
How ever if poss and safe do consider upgrading ?
 
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