Heater flue size? 1inch or 3inch? and why the difference??

[trouville]

While everyones thinking about sun shades, im heading towards the artic circel!(it starts halfway up the Finish coast)
Im told the Baltic spring/autum nights can be chilly so i want to install a vented heater.

I thought of takeing my Talors diesel, but aboard a small Folkboat it would be to big and to hot!! I also dont want to cut a large hole in my cabin roof,nor suffer the sooting around the outlet.

A force 10 parafin one would be ideal but cant be bought in Europe? So im going to make a small heater!

Hear you see that a dripfeed heater has a 3inch chimny but the parafin only a 1 inch chimney, the same 1 inch for LPG heaters?

http://www.taylorsheatersandcookers.co.uk/sp079db.html

JUST FOR EXAMPLE: If i attach a 1 inch tube to a 12 inch heater caseing, then under that put a 2200w camping gas stove, would all the fumes and damp vent via the chiminy? after all its then just exactly the same configeration as a Talors of Force 10 unit.

Now if instead of the pressurised heat sourse, i place a simple 2000w alcohol wick fed "fondue" heat source under the same heater body why shouldent the same 1 inch chimney vent the simple wick burner??????????????????????????????????

If its to do with the gas flow, then then wouldent the lower out put of the wick still permit sufficent gas flow as the pipe walms up?

Or is the 3 inch pipe needed to ensure soother burning of the raw diesel fule in the burner pot?

Will a 1 inch chimney flue vent my heat sourse removing water vapor and carbon monoxide??? It works with both Talors and force 10? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Plum]

Your planned voyage sound exciting! I do not know the answer to your question, but went through the same thought process last year but finally fitted a Taylors Diesel heater which I got second-hand. I did not like the idea of a 3" flue but now it is done I am very happy with the result in my 23' gaffer. Regarding the physics, I do not see how the choice of fuel should dictate the flue diameter. As long as you get enough airflow to ensure all combustion gasses go up not down then it will work. However, to ensure you have enough airflow you need adequate diameter and height (length) of flue to ensure good thermal flow to overcome any small pressure differences that will occurr between the cabin and the outside of the boat due to air flow (wind) passing over your boat. However, too much airflow will result in all the hot air going up the flue before it has had a chance to heat the casing and transfer the heat to the cabin. I believe your only option is to experiment! You may also want to consider increasing the surface area of the heater casing to assist with heat transfer into the cabin. My plan was to have a circle of 1" copper tubes, like a steam boiler, mounted vertically around the burner, the bottom of the tubes lower than the burner so only fresh air passes through them and the top of the tubes passing through the top of the heater casing around the flue, so the fresh cabin air that passes though them exits into the cabin again (hope this description makes sense to you).

Let us know how you get on.

 

[trouville]

Sounds like a marine equivelent of a "brick oven" the point of the bricks is to balance the heat, as the fire goes down then is built up, And to keep the house walm during the night.

The Tailors will heat your boat even on minimum! Unless it was a very cold night i have to open the cabin doors to let the heat out from time to time!!