Tamrac
New Member
Perkins 4107. Fitting a heat exchanger type heater
Hello, I would be grateful if anyone could assist with an issue fitting a heater.
I’ve fitted a heat exchanger heater to my 1968 Seamaster 27 with a Perkins 4107, assumed to be original. The boat is cooled with Canal water. New 75 degree thermostat fitted (as recommended for marinised engines) The engine already has a calorifier fitted to the cooling circuit and I have split this line with “Y” adapters as the heater has a heat control that when in the cold position stops the flow of water completely, so by having two circuits, I don’t have to worry about the heater preventing flow if it is set to cool in the summer. I do have a stop gate on the calorifier to isolate it so as to force the flow to the heater.
The problem I have is that the heater is fitted under the rear seats and is approx 12” higher than the engine. There is insufficient flow to raise the coolant up to it, there is some, but only a trickle. I can confirm that this water is hot. I have fitted a bleed valve to assist with trapped air (actually a drain off) at the highest point and get a small trickle from it.
This heater is no different to what is fitted on a coach for example, where the heat exchangers are similar in height above the engine as mine is. So in principle, this should work well
The boat has had a history of overheating with the previous owner, I think the issue was the sea cock shutting on its own accord as it’s just a leaver type, low down with a long handle.......vibrations seems to get it to close on its own when it’s not lifted fully. There is evidence that she has cooked a few times previously and she’s done it once with me when I first got it. I’m on top of that now but find that she always runs cool now. Highest temp with me is just around 70 degrees, so don’t think the thermostat opens. I also find that theres no pressure when I remove the pressure cap. I’m assuming it’s the pressure that I need to flow to this heat exchanger.
A cooling system pressure test has been done and it held significant pressure over 15 mins, suggesting that no damage was done to the head or gasket when she cooked? She doesn’t loose water over time. While under pressure, good flow came through the heat exchanger.
Anyone have any thoughts on how to get this to work? For the record, I have just fitted a new water pump and the flow has improved to a trickle rather than none at all with the old one. But interestingly, the new one didn’t fit as it hit the timing chain cover. The supplier told me I needed a spacer which I’ve now fitted. What is the purpose of the spacer? It’s internal profile matched that of the engine block so I can’t see how it could improve flow. Why did my old one not have a spacer?
Thanks
Andy
Hello, I would be grateful if anyone could assist with an issue fitting a heater.
I’ve fitted a heat exchanger heater to my 1968 Seamaster 27 with a Perkins 4107, assumed to be original. The boat is cooled with Canal water. New 75 degree thermostat fitted (as recommended for marinised engines) The engine already has a calorifier fitted to the cooling circuit and I have split this line with “Y” adapters as the heater has a heat control that when in the cold position stops the flow of water completely, so by having two circuits, I don’t have to worry about the heater preventing flow if it is set to cool in the summer. I do have a stop gate on the calorifier to isolate it so as to force the flow to the heater.
The problem I have is that the heater is fitted under the rear seats and is approx 12” higher than the engine. There is insufficient flow to raise the coolant up to it, there is some, but only a trickle. I can confirm that this water is hot. I have fitted a bleed valve to assist with trapped air (actually a drain off) at the highest point and get a small trickle from it.
This heater is no different to what is fitted on a coach for example, where the heat exchangers are similar in height above the engine as mine is. So in principle, this should work well
The boat has had a history of overheating with the previous owner, I think the issue was the sea cock shutting on its own accord as it’s just a leaver type, low down with a long handle.......vibrations seems to get it to close on its own when it’s not lifted fully. There is evidence that she has cooked a few times previously and she’s done it once with me when I first got it. I’m on top of that now but find that she always runs cool now. Highest temp with me is just around 70 degrees, so don’t think the thermostat opens. I also find that theres no pressure when I remove the pressure cap. I’m assuming it’s the pressure that I need to flow to this heat exchanger.
A cooling system pressure test has been done and it held significant pressure over 15 mins, suggesting that no damage was done to the head or gasket when she cooked? She doesn’t loose water over time. While under pressure, good flow came through the heat exchanger.
Anyone have any thoughts on how to get this to work? For the record, I have just fitted a new water pump and the flow has improved to a trickle rather than none at all with the old one. But interestingly, the new one didn’t fit as it hit the timing chain cover. The supplier told me I needed a spacer which I’ve now fitted. What is the purpose of the spacer? It’s internal profile matched that of the engine block so I can’t see how it could improve flow. Why did my old one not have a spacer?
Thanks
Andy
