Headsail Modifications.

VO5 said:
Anyone here modified the cut of their headsails, and if so, why ?
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I have done it many years ago when I had a totally blown out jib on an enterprise dinghy and I recut and re-sewed the luff. It made a significant improvement.

Towards the end of building my present craft I decided to change from multiple foresales to roller reefing. I mounted the roller drum almost at deck level. But this would have raised the sail a further 9 to 10" above the deck and the luff length would have been too long.
I took the bull by the horns and marked the sail with a biro from ten inches up the luff to about three feet along the foot tapering the line to match the curve along the foot. I then sent the unused 450 sq feet sail back to Hoods and they trimmed the sail back to my line as well as changing the luff tape and adding a foam luff. I did not wish to take pair if scissors to that sail.
It was a bit of a chance but the sail holds it's shape all the way through the wind range. When using the full sail it nicely sits nicely along the deck inside the guardrail when going to windwards in lighter winds and even when ploughing to windward at eightish knots in the North Sea into 30 knots + of wind with it well reefed it still set's nicely with no bagginess. That is just with myself and my wife on board.
Yes, it as certainly possible to recut a sail but unless you understand the subject it is best to read up about how to and ask for advice before taking the plunge.
 
Strathglass said:
I have done it many years ago when I had a totally blown out jib on an enterprise dinghy and I recut and re-sewed the luff. It made a significant improvement.

Towards the end of building my present craft I decided to change from multiple foresales to roller reefing. I mounted the roller drum almost at deck level. But this would have raised the sail a further 9 to 10" above the deck and the luff length would have been too long.
I took the bull by the horns and marked the sail with a biro from ten inches up the luff to about three feet along the foot tapering the line to match the curve along the foot. I then sent the unused 450 sq feet sail back to Hoods and they trimmed the sail back to my line as well as changing the luff tape and adding a foam luff. I did not wish to take pair if scissors to that sail.
It was a bit of a chance but the sail holds it's shape all the way through the wind range. When using the full sail it nicely sits nicely along the deck inside the guardrail when going to windwards in lighter winds and even when ploughing to windward at eightish knots in the North Sea into 30 knots + of wind with it well reefed it still set's nicely with no bagginess. That is just with myself and my wife on board.
Yes, it as certainly possible to recut a sail but unless you understand the subject it is best to read up about how to and ask for advice before taking the plunge.
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Bingo ! You got it in one, fantastic.

The reason I raise the subject is because (and on a much bigger scale) a large genoa with a low foot parallel to the deck is OK for light airs in daylight.
But for night sailing it is a nuisance as it obscures the arc of view from right ahead to off the beam on the leeward side. This is a worry when sailing in waters with a lot of shipping about, first part.

Second part is that I think that for sailing in rough seas and strong winds it may not be the best choice, but if you have roller reefing headsails you are stuck with it.

Skip Novak sails in and around the Strait of Magellan, Ushuaia, etc., where there are big seas and strong winds.

He has had his genoas recut so the clew is kept well above the deck.

I wonder if in addition it is possible to have the third last area of sail ( when reefed using the roller) cut with a heavier weight of canvas and what effect this would have.
 
LadyInBed said:
I got a second hand hank on sail for my inner forestay and had the leach cut shorter to turn it into a Yankee.
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Yes, absolutely. I am sure it works with the luxury of two. But I only have one, and I would like to explore options to widen use for really lumpy winter sailing.
 
To recut the foot to have the clew higher it is likely that the foot is cut with the weave square to the foot. This is the direction of min stretch. There then is an angled seam so that subsequent panels going up are at an angle (bias) to the weave to get the luff edge square to the weave and to give the sail stretch in the middle. (camber).
So you would be advised if this is the cut of the sail to remove your cloth from the area above the foot rather than the foot it self. leaving the hem of thefoot and possibly the eyelet in the clew intact. So the new join will be some way up the leach. There is a good book by Jeremy Howard Williams on sail design which may help you. Cos I am hardly an expert and am only guessing on the cut of your jib. So get moreadvice good luck olewill
 
William_H said:
To recut the foot to have the clew higher it is likely that the foot is cut with the weave square to the foot. This is the direction of min stretch. There then is an angled seam so that subsequent panels going up are at an angle (bias) to the weave to get the luff edge square to the weave and to give the sail stretch in the middle. (camber).
So you would be advised if this is the cut of the sail to remove your cloth from the area above the foot rather than the foot it self. leaving the hem of thefoot and possibly the eyelet in the clew intact. So the new join will be some way up the leach. There is a good book by Jeremy Howard Williams on sail design which may help you. Cos I am hardly an expert and am only guessing on the cut of your jib. So get moreadvice good luck olewill
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Yes Ollie, I get your drift on the weave and you are right, so it is not a chopping exercise.
But down there you have very strong winds. Do Aussie yachtsmen keep two suits of sails ? One for light summer airs and the other for winter ?
 
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