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Had a blocked exhaust side heads piping at the weekend - ughh!

Noticed that there is an increasing limescale deposit inside the pipe. I'd rather not pull the pipe out and bang it on the pontoon (I've had that recommended as a method of clearing limescale!) and wondered if anybody knows of any magic chemicals that will dissolve it and flush away? Would straightforward limescale remover from the supermarket do any good?

tia

rob
 
If it's that blocked the simplest and most effective thing to do is to replace the flexible pipe in toto.

Banging it on the pontoon only works with relatively light scaling

Then, to keep the the thing clear, use citric acid/sodium hypochlorite on a regular basis. As a liveboard I alternate the two every month.
 
Charles,

Thank you. Can one buy these chemicals over the counter? In a chemist maybe or do chandlers stock it normally?

rob
 
Do a search on any posts by Headmistress. She's the expert on the subject of heads (obviously!)

You will find the answers you're looking for there.
 
If I remember correctly from "Headmistress's" book she recommends White Vinegar for this. However, I support the previous post which said replace the pipe with a new piece ......... doesn't cost much and you won't need to clean it for a bit!

Alan.
 
I have a feeling I should be doing this. The trouble is it's not the cost of the pipe that's the problem but getting the old one out from behind some shelves and a fascia panel. Not a very difficult job but "so much to do - so little time"

Sulphamic acid might be the answer,eh? How do you apply it and will it damage the seals in the heads?
 
I struggled for ages getting mine out to replace it - very stiff and in an awkward location. My wife then pinted out that I had done it all wrong and I should have used the jigsaw to cut it into small pieces in-situ, obvious really.
The new one , being new was much more flexible and not aproblem to get in.

Regards
 
Sulphamic acid is a stronger acid than citric or acetic (vinegar) so should work much quicker. It will still be a longish job to get it completely clear though. Some acid central heating boiler descalers are I think suphamic acid based not sure about Fernox DS-3 though.

Once it is clear the distilled (white) vinegar treatment recommended by Peggy Hall will keep it clear and should also prevent any nasty smells.
 
[ QUOTE ]
If it's that blocked the simplest and most effective thing to do is to replace the flexible pipe in toto.

Banging it on the pontoon only works with relatively light scaling

Then, to keep the the thing clear, use citric acid/sodium hypochlorite on a regular basis. As a liveboard I alternate the two every month.

[/ QUOTE ]

Omit the sodium hypochlorite. Not only is it highly destructive to the rubber parts in the toilet, but it breaks down hose resistance to odor permeation.

And don't even THINK of combining chlorine with vinegar...that produces a lethal gas that's even MORE dangerous than chlorine and ammonia.

A 12% solution of what we call muriatic acid (hydrochloric?) left in the pipes for an hour will dissolve a heavy buildup of sea water calcium carbonates...it will not harm the toilet, so flush it down the loo with the seaock closed. Remove the hose from a tank and plug that end to keep it in that hose.

A cupful of white vinegar, two at most (any more is just wasted), flushed all the way through the pipes once a week will prevent future buildup. In fact, repeated doses of undiluted white vinegar will even dissolve a heavy buildup...it just takes a lot longer.

Fwiw, if you have a heavy sea water calcium carbonates buildup in your loo plumbing, it's a good bet that you also have an equally heavy buildup of the stuff in your engine intake and exhausts hoses and any other sea water hoses. The "12% solution" is the cure for it in those hoses too.

Replacing hoses can often be made much easier by attaching the new hose to the old and pulling it through as you pull the old hose out. Use a male-male connector...cut the ends of both hoses as flat and smooth as possible so they can be butted tightly together...you want the smoothest unbroken surface possible that cannot get hung up on anything. Cement the hose onto the connector...clamps will get hung up, duct tape won't hold if you have to pull hard--and the last thing you want is for the link to part company in an inacessible place Once you've gotten the hoses through, cut the new off behind the connector.

But unless the hose stinks, there's no reason to replace it. It's a bit of a PITA to clean out the buildup, but easy to prevent once you've done it.
 
[ QUOTE ]
A 12% solution of what we call muriatic acid (hydrochloric?) left in the pipes for an hour will dissolve a heavy buildup of sea water calcium carbonates...it will not harm the toilet

[/ QUOTE ]

Ageed hydrochloric acid will be the swiftest method of removing the limescale chemically but if the scaling is severe it may need more than one dose to remove it all. Just provided you are absolutely sure it will not harm anything it comes into contact with.

I suggest it is flushed away with plenty of water afterwards and that a supply of washing soda (sodium carbonate) is kept handy to neutralise any spills. Although there are many things more hazardous to handle splashes should be washed off the skin promptly and care taken to avoid splashes in the eyes (goggles preferably).

Hydrochloric acid is available as "brick cleaner" but could you clarify the concentration you suggest. By 12% do you mean 120cc diluted to 1litre ie 12% volume for volume or do you mean dilute the acid as supplied until the HCl concentration is 12%. I'm not sure what the concentration of HCl is in brick cleaner but the concentrated acid you will find in chemistry laboratories is only a thirty something percent solution of HCl in water.

Do not in any circumstances mix it with hypochlorite or other chlorine based materials.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hydrochloric acid is available as "brick cleaner" but could you clarify the concentration you suggest. By 12% do you mean 120cc diluted to 1litre ie 12% volume for volume or do you mean dilute the acid as supplied until the HCl concentration is 12%. I'm not sure what the concentration of HCl is in brick cleaner but the concentrated acid you will find in chemistry laboratories is only a thirty something percent solution of HCl in water.

[/ QUOTE ]

I can't answer your question, Vic, because I don't know the concentration in the "muriatic acid" sold in hardware and other retail stores here in the US for such jobs as brick cleaning, driveway cleaning vs. the concentration in your hydrochloric acid "brick cleaner."

All I can tell you is that a dilution of 8 parts water to 1 part "muriatic" acid is what's used here to clean out hoses and other places on boats where mineral buildup accumulates, and that I know for certain that dilution will not harm hoses, rubber parts or any hardware.
 
[ QUOTE ]
a dilution of 8 parts water to 1 part "muriatic" acid

[/ QUOTE ] That answers the question I think. It won't be critical anyway. I'd probably opt for around 1:10 if using laboratory grade concentrated hydrochloric acid which I guess is a bit more concentrated than your "muriatic acid".. Amazed though that such an old name is still in use.
 
Vic,

I see that you're a chemist - so you might have some idea where it is possible to source hydrochloric acid? Is this stuff kept under lock and key and only available to professionals? I've been to B&Q today to have a look at masonry cleaner as was suggested above somewhere but the patio cleaning products that I found did not disclose the active ingredients. Any ideas?

rob
 
[ QUOTE ]
you might have some idea where it is possible to source hydrochloric acid?

[/ QUOTE ] No I am afraid I don't. It is difficult to get hold of some of these things. A proper builders' merchants might be a better place to try then B&Q, although you could start off with Wickes I suppose. I think at one time some patio cleaners were HCl based but probably not such a good idea as it will tend to dissolve the concrete slabs. I have seen the brick cleaner somewhere but I can't remember where.

Doing a bit of a Google search I have come across some products that contain hydrofluoric acid I suggest you give them a miss. HF is one of the most dangerous chemicals I have used. If you do use it make absolutely sure you don't get any on you and be prepared to wash any off without delay if you do have a mishap.
 
Interesting that sulphamic acid can't be used on acrylic and also that they say not suitable for plastic kettles and baths as I did not know that either were acrylic. I suppose some may be.

I'd be surprised if your toilet was acrylic, ABS is the plastic I would have expected it to be. Obviously someting to check up on.

Thanks for the warning.
 
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