Headlining Re using Glue Brushes

davidpbo

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I about to start replacing the headlining. Is there a way of keeping glue brushes such that they can be re-used? I am assuming the adhesive is some sort of evo stick type contact adhesive.

Maybe wrap in cling film, or poly bag?

I shall be using use and throw brushes but unfortunately can't do very much at one hit and don't want to be using a brush a panel.

P.S just done the maths, brushes 0.27P so not too great a cost but nevertheless I would like to stop them going off if I put hem down for an hour.
 
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I about to start replacing the headlining. Is there a way of keeping glue brushes such that they can be re-used? I am assuming the adhesive is some sort of evo stick type contact adhesive.

Maybe wrap in cling film, or poly bag?

I shall be using use and throw brushes but unfortunately can't do very much at one hit and don't want to be using a brush a panel.

P.S just done the maths, brushes 0.27P so not too great a cost but nevertheless I would like to stop them going off if I put hem down for an hour.

I use a notched spreader....I can peel the glue of when it's dried
 
works withpaint and polish aluminim foil a heavy baco foil . might with glue... the other thing is water seals th air but you need to use tissue/ cloth before you use again .the water keeps the glue from evaporating
 
I am currently re-gluing all the linings on a 39 foot Jeaneau Sun Fizz and can tell you that the only glue to use is "Timebond" which is a thixotropic glue allowing a five to ten second ability to 'slid' the lining into its final position. DO NOT try and use any other type of contact adhesive or you might come unstuck !!!

I am using a 1¼ inch flexible putty knife (99p from the 99-pee shop in Gosport). The fact that you get three putty knives for 99p makes it all the sweeter as the other two can scrape off the rubbery glue once it has set.
 
I am currently re-gluing all the linings on a 39 foot Jeaneau Sun Fizz and can tell you that the only glue to use is "Timebond" which is a thixotropic glue allowing a five to ten second ability to 'slid' the lining into its final position. DO NOT try and use any other type of contact adhesive or you might come unstuck !!!

I am using a 1¼ inch flexible putty knife (99p from the 99-pee shop in Gosport). The fact that you get three putty knives for 99p makes it all the sweeter as the other two can scrape off the rubbery glue once it has set.

I also used Timebond for fixing the engine sound proofing panels in place. (In fact I've used it on the last two boats for the same job!) Excellent stuff for the job and allows a bit of push and pull to get it exactly right time just as it says on the tin.

For small bits of lining I use a spray can of adhesive.
 
I used a tall mayonnaise jar, and left the brush permanently in the Evostick type glue that I was using - it wasn't quite tall enough so I shortened the brush handle - and kept topping the glue up. It lasted for three weeks, but I did find the jar was a vile mess outside by the time I'd finished.
 
https://www.cromwell.co.uk/ACN7328750K

You need this. Phone them and do a deal for a bulk order. I've just insulated a 33 footer using this and £75's worth did the whole job. Wear a good mask and ventilate the boat and I can assure you it's much easier than trying to brush it on. Main reason being that it allows you to dry fit and then put the unglued material in place, spray the adhesive on half, fix it, fold back the other half, spray it and fix that.
 
Yes and a mask. I'm convinced though that using spray adhesive under controlled conditions exposes you to less risk than using liquid / gell adhesive with a brush and taking ten times as long to do the job.
 
As stated in another thread. I am using the adhesives and methods recommended by Hawke House and have already bought materials.

Ventilation and mask working fine.

P.S. A spray adhesive probably would be easier.
I am using one on the foam, brushing another on the fibreglass. I don't know the properties of the different adhesives and how they react with the various components so decided to stick with what the suppliers of the foam backed vinyl recommended.

If I run out that may change.
 
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