Headlining - Hints and Tips Please

[Simondjuk]

Does that mean that once the first contact has been made you can't move the fabric again i.e. you can't adjust the positioning if it's not quite right? That must make it fiendishly difficult surely?

I found as dedwards said in his reply above.

One other point, be careful when pressing foam backed vinyl on. If you press your finger tips or anything else into it, you can end up compessing the foam, forcing the adhesive through it, and sticking the back of the vinyl itself to the GRP. This will leave indentations which won't spring out. I made one dent like this by accidentally sticking my elbow against the deckhead while moving around.

I found that the best way to ensure the vinyl was pressed on well without compressing the foam was to use a large diameter 4" long hair roller and roll across the surfaces. To press the vinyl into the corners, I used a long hair corner laminating roller.

One final thing, a proper solvent fume respirator is essential when using contact adhesives in the confined area of a boat interior.

 

[Hydrozoan]

one word against using wooden panels: Although they make the glueing and final fitting incredibly simple, actually making the panels the right size in the first place can be fiendishly difficult. ...

As a proponent of panels, I have to admit that is a point. I was fortunate enough to have pre-existing panels from which I cleaned up the old foam-backed vinyl and its adhesive - or could have copied, had they not been sound. It also gave me the advantage, however, of being able to use non-foam-backed vinyl in replacement, which was IMO a considerable advantage - which would also apply to panels made from scratch.

So I still think I would have been wise to go the panel route, had pre-existing panels not existed. But I did not have to cover odd shapes - just flattish panels, which it would have been tricky but not 'fiendishly difficult' to make from scratch. I do accept that is perhaps not the OPs situation, and I certainly do not wish to 'push' panels based on my relatively fortunate situation, if they would make his life more difficult.

All I hold is that it's worthwhile thinking very carefully about all the pros and cons - and perhaps not jumping one way only because of the availability of foam-backed vinyl. The OP has had lots of good advice I think, both pro and contra. All that remains for me is to wish him good luck in choosing his approach, and implementing it.

 

[pvb]

Many years ago, I watched a couple of Westerly guys replace the headlining in my boat (it was a warranty job; the original headlining fell off after about 6 months). I swore then that I would never, ever, attempt to do the job myself, and I'm happy to do almost any DIY work. To get a sewn headlining on neatly, without wrinkles, is practically impossible. There are guys around who specialise in doing it, and I think this would be a wise investment - but check out their previous work first.

 

[VicS]

N


VicS, thanks for the pics, the idea of panels has some appeal but the cabin has a stepped roof and curves but it might be possible to do the horizontal surfaces. I will have to get on the boat and have a look and a think.

I had forgotten what the inside of Centaur is like but now you mention it it has reminded me that Roy Sallabank ( one time Seawych owner, Owners Association news letter editor and member of the SWOA until his death ) published a couple of articles in PBO about relining his Centaur, Seabreezes.

Feb and Mar 1995 if you are interested

IIRC he did use plyboards for the headlining.

 

[geem]

Having replaced complete headlining in two yachts we learned a few tricks. This is how we did it. Suit up in tyvek suit and tape gloves on. Same with feet. Use good quality breathing mask. Use an angle grinder with a wire brush. The sort that has bristles pointing outwards, not the cup type. Clean off all glue. Its a messy job and itchy as hell if you don't suit up. This is the quickest way we have found to do it. The GRP will be clean and a good surface to glue battens on and fix insulation.
We have used battens glued to the hull for fixing 3mm ply. The thickness of battens needs to match the thickness of insulation you intend to fix in batten depth. We fixed 12mm battens and insulation. We chose closed cell foam insulation glued to hull with high temperature contact adhesive. We used new foam back vinyl to cover 3mm ply with HT adhesive. The ply was fixed with screws and press stud buttons. Looked great and boat was hugely warmer and had no condensation. We added two tons of positive buoyancy with the amount of insulation we added on last boat.
On the current boat we used PVA glue to fix vinyl to ply panels. It takes longer to cure but doesn't have the nasty fumes of the contact adhesive.

 

[single]

You must get one of these to clean all the old stuff off......its amazing-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Miracle-Stripper-Paint-Rust-remover-Drill-Attachment-/252038194224