Headlining - again

Swanrad2

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I had some success sticking back a corner of droopy, foam backed headlining with 'wet grab' a few years ago. It looked good and stayed non-droopy for ages. So, when over the winter (because of a leaky window) a larger area came down - reached for the wet grab. Absolutely awful finish, doesn't fit, droops in places, won't stay up in others - know everyone tells you this on the forum, so how I chuckled as I stuck the stuff back up thinking how little they know.

An hour later when I had finally got some of the sticky stuff to bite using a fibre glassing roller, realised the error of my ways - don't stick the stuff back up without cleaning off the black, dusty 'foam'. Ever. I now also know that in the future I will have to chisel off a lovely blend of deteriorated, poisonous backing foam bonded in place with strong water curing glue.

The full job will have to wait until next winter - I want to go sailing.
 
on a 28 footer we had I replaced the lining with very thin and light self adhesive fabric tiles, easy to cut and shape around curves as well.

When we got the 42 cat we added the white shiny plastic sheeting and added varnished battens. Been in for many years no and never a problem.

Good luck and fair winds. :)
 
After hearing all the troubles of the foam of the headlining disintegrating I wonder why people bother with it?
Surely the Polyester Headliner It only comes in two colours (tan, gray) but is very easy to instal and it looks great
 
After hearing all the troubles of the foam of the headlining disintegrating I wonder why people bother with it?
Surely the Polyester Headliner It only comes in two colours (tan, gray) but is very easy to instal and it looks great

Sorry - what's the 'polyester headliner'. I'm not fussed, I'd get rid of the lost if there was something half nice to replace it with. The problem is once you start messing with the stuff - I really thought I'd beet the sceptics with e wet-grab making a nasty job easy!
 
I had a big lot of links ready for you but then lost the lot. I'm sending these but you'll have to do the research. I am trying to find suppliers in the UK so I will be back./

lBMF Member Profile - Hawke House Ltd - British Marine Federation
www.britishmarine.co.uk/companyprofile.aspx?companyid=1417‎
Hawke House. Overview. Suppliers & manufacturers of: headlining vinyls, marine carpets, woven & vinyl upholstery, acrylic, polyester & PVC boat cover fabrics,


http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?18106-Hull-polishing-and-carpet-headlining-(Again)

http://www.alternatetextiles.com.au/Carpets.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHLq6FxQiI0
 
http://www.ehow.com/how_7892618_use-carpet-headliner-sailboat.html

http://www.perfectfit.com/15593/154092/Marine-Carpet-and-Hulliner/Hulliner-and-Headliner-72.html


Sunspot Baby
"Hull Liner" is readily available but you won't find it a Lowes or Home Depot. While it looks a bit like carpet, it is more like felt. It is not woven and has no backing. Makes it easy to stretch or form to irregular shapes.

Try this link for info HullBlanket Headliner Hull Liner Carpet Type - Conforms to Shapes

I replaced some of my vinyl/neoprene backed deteriorating head liner with hull liner about 4 years ago and no problems so far.

George
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/head-liner-suggestions-28527.html

Auto Upholstery Wholesaler - Car Trimming Supplies & Material Sales.
www.martrim.co.uk/‎
We're a vehicle trim shop and auto upholstery wholesaler to UK & international trimmers, selling leather hides, car seating materials, auto vinyl, car mats, carpets ...
 
What adhesive did you use for it coopec?
I have been using acustic carpet...the type used by boys in their boom-box cars and in big speaker cabinets, a few colors availabe on Amazon....and I need to do the cabin ceiling next. The spray I have used on the sides is ok but I am not sure if I trust it on the ceiling if it gets as hot as last summer.
 
First cut the headlining material fairly accurately to size. The material does stretch and you can trim off excess without problems after it has been laid so don't be too pedantic. I used contact cement in a tin and I spread it with a cheap paint brush (about 2 sq meters each time). Try to spread it as evenly as you can but don't spend too long striving for perfection (Edges are important though). Then spray the back of headlining material with a pressure pack can of spray. Then starting at the edge lay the material using the palm of your hands to place it on the contact cement.

The guy at the "Marine & Leisure Supplies" had experience with the product and he said ideally you should have a helper to hold the liner material so that the weight does not undo the bond you have already made while you are applying the next 2sq meters of contact cement. I didn't have a helper so I used 2 lengths of timber to make a "T" and used that to prop up the material while I spread the next lot of contact cement.

I have a gut feeling the headliner you are using is the same product that I have used
 
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"Perfect for covering a number of things such as, Subwoofer boxes, false floors, custom builds, door cards, roof linings, parcel shelves and many other things. It is easy to work with and very flexible. Features: Anthracite 1000cm x 135cm, Ideal for Subwoofer Boxes and Parcel Shelves. Can be used for Custom Boot Installs and Interior Styling.

In Australia I think the "hoods" fit out their shagging wagons with this sort of material and they have enormously powerful sound systems too
 
DANGEROUS SUBSTANCE WARNING/

I have mentioned this before but I will say it again. Many of these spray adhesives contain fairly nasty solvents and I would wear a 3M solvent mask. I was lining my stern cabin some 30 odd years ago with Thixsofix and was overcome with fumes and came out of the boat with my head spinning. Some days later I came down with flu like symptoms, a few days later my skin started to itch and my eyes turned yellow, within a week I was yellow all over, I lost 2 stone having developed sever jaundice. I was off work for three months and could not take any sort of alcohol for about 3 years.

Wear a mask, its better than being very ill. http://www.symphonydirect.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=119
 


Look for "Van-Lining" -Veltrim is one of the variants. Like thin stretchy felted carpet. Quite easy to work with -and leaves a cosy surface on the inside of the hull. I put it on top of 6mm closed cell foam, so almost 12mm of insulation on the inside now :)
Much warmer, quieter and more pleasant than 3mm of open cell foamed vinyl- the original horrible crumbling stuff!!
Hawke house are good for materials as well..
If you use the solvent adhesive, take great care with the fire/breathing hazards..

Graeme
 
Sorry all - forgot to say thanks for replies to this thread, so, thanks!

Out of interest we have replaced the hull side panels with varnished ply screwed into ply battens. We are going to use a similar process for the deck head under the foredeck (but covered with headlining material) and are going to do the bit on the sticky up cabin sides and top with some of the foam backed headlining material glued directly to the well cleaned GRP as the physical size of the area is quite small but the visibility quite high. All of this in a Centaur V birth.

We have secured the battens with Guerilla Glue - holding lovely so far!

The idea is we are doing the main cabin next winter and want to try all options to decide which works best for us.
 
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