Headliner/side gap filler - any tips ?

[Loggo]

I have a 15 yo boat and, frankly the join between the headlining and side of the boat shows many signs of repair and old glue etc. from way back when.
Thinking of tidying this up I bought some 90 degree plastic "L" section and thought I would cover the join.
Sadly this was not to be - the angle varies between, say, 105 and 115 degrees and the "L" section was determined to stay at 90.
Apart from flexible filler has anyone else overcome this ?

 

[Forest Girl]

Try this.... Buy a strip of double glazed upvc window sealing strip. It is flexible and dirt cheap. it comes in different widths. Buy some headlining material. Cover the plastic strip but with an equal amount of overlap. Glue the covered strip to the sides then glue the flexible overlap upwards onto the ceiling section. I was going to do this but when I had the quarter berth on my Fulmar done the guy did it for me. However he replaced the side pieces completely with pieces big enough to glue up over the joins.
Another alternative.... buy flexible plastic pipe (10-15mm). Cover it in headfling material then use this "roll" to glue up against the join. Just a thought.

 

[Loggo]

Thanks ForestGirl. I have toyed with the idea of using plastic pipe as it would not be "angle sensitive" but it had not occoured to me to cover it in matching material - nice one.

 

[AntarcticPilot]

You can get flexible sealing strip for Kitchen worktops; B&Q and so on stock it. It is a flat tape with a groove down the centre-line, is pretty flexible and self-adhesive. I guess that might do the trick.

 

[Loggo]

Thanks Antarctic pilot. I think that will be the quick answer - now to find the best colour match.

 

[Deleted member 36384]

Loggo this is avery timely post! I am in the process of replacing the lining in my aft cabin (I am using foam backed vinyl). I will be keeping the headlining as it is in good condition.

A previous owner had used a wood moulding cover with plain vinyl but with out the foam backing. The wood moulding was the semi round type one face, with the other face flat. It was screwed in place. In my opinion it was not a satisfactory way to finish the edge as the vinyl looked quite chunky wrapped round the relatively thin moulding with a very obvious thick edging.

I have glued wooden blocks (Evo Stiks "Stick's Like Sh*t) onto the edge between the side and head lining. These are triangular mouldings with the apex planed to a flat of about 4 mm. The moulding was then cut into 3 to 4 cm lengths.

The planed flat side is glued into the turn of the sole and coaming i.e. the cabin headlining to cabin side wall edge. This presents the base of the triangular moulding facing into the cabin at about 45 degrees between headlining and coaming. Glue on as many as required to allow a strip of flat moulding to follow any curve.

I have used a flat moulding, mahogany, 15 mm x 3 mm with rounded edges, (its thin, not sure if its 3 mm) and then screwed it onto the blocks using small counter sunk brass wood screws. It looks neat and hides a rough edge very, very well.

When I come to the saloon I will not use wood screws but will attach the flat moulding with glue and small panel pins thus eliminating any screw issues from the aesthetics. Equally a pine moulding could be used and painted to match the lining colour and sheen i.e. matt, egg shell, silk as appropriate.

Hope this helps.

 

[samwise]

I have used this stuff Hidem tape ( link below) very successfully to conceal joins in headlining panels. I glue a thin ply strip under the edges of the lining and then staple (stainless) the tape to it. The staple is completely concealed by the construction of the tape. It may be however that it is not wide enough to deal with your gap, but it looks very neat and is a doddle to fit. Most odf the pro headlining people use it. Hawke House may be another source





http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/c-294-hidem.aspx

 

[VicS]

To avoid using bits of trim etc, but only applicable when re-lining.

Cut the side lining to overlap onto the roof by about 1" but trim away the foam backing from that inch.

Cut the roof lining a similar amount over size, trim back the foam and fold the vinyl back over the edge and glue down.

Looks neat but avoids any trim which might not. ( did not when I tried to use piping glued in place)

Some vinyl to vinyl adhesive perhaps to stick the "hemmed" edge of the roof lining to the side lining

Better still as above with the side lining but use covered ply panels for the roof. Fix those with a combination of covered button screw caps and velcro.

 

[chuzzlewit]

Foam backing ca be a pain

Loggo this is avery timely post! I am in the process of replacing the lining in my aft cabin (I am using foam backed vinyl). I will be keeping the headlining as it is in good condition.

A previous owner had used a wood moulding cover with plain vinyl but with out the foam backing. The wood moulding was the semi round type one face, with the other face flat. It was screwed in place. In my opinion it was not a satisfactory way to finish the edge as the vinyl looked quite chunky wrapped round the relatively thin moulding with a very obvious thick edging.

I have glued wooden blocks (Evo Stiks "Stick's Like Sh*t) onto the edge between the side and head lining. These are triangular mouldings with the apex planed to a flat of about 4 mm. The moulding was then cut into 3 to 4 cm lengths.

The planed flat side is glued into the turn of the sole and coaming i.e. the cabin headlining to cabin side wall edge. This presents the base of the triangular moulding facing into the cabin at about 45 degrees between headlining and coaming. Glue on as many as required to allow a strip of flat moulding to follow any curve.

I have used a flat moulding, mahogany, 15 mm x 3 mm with rounded edges, (its thin, not sure if its 3 mm) and then screwed it onto the blocks using small counter sunk brass wood screws. It looks neat and hides a rough edge very, very well.

When I come to the saloon I will not use wood screws but will attach the flat moulding with glue and small panel pins thus eliminating any screw issues from the aesthetics. Equally a pine moulding could be used and painted to match the lining colour and sheen i.e. matt, egg shell, silk as appropriate.

Hope this helps.

when the foam eventually crumbles.

 

[Deleted member 36384]

when the foam eventually crumbles.

What are you going on about, we are talking about finishing an edge? You can purchase vinyl that has stable foam backing and will last many, many years. DYOR.