has the cold snap killed my batteries?

Billjratt

Billjratt

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I had to row through ice to get to the boat yesterday, an interesting experience, hard work and noisy. (Salt water, We're in Troon)
When I got there I found the batteries were flat - as in 8 volts. Fired up the generator and they seemed to take the 30amp charge, but it soon dropped away as the battery voltage rose unusually quickly. Managed to get the engine started by blocking the air inlet to decompress, but the big alternator gave similar symptoms to the generator, quickly settling to about 5 amps between 4 110AH batteries!
The batteries were fine last time we were down at the boat, so have I got instantaneous sulphation? - and if so, why, and is there anything that can be done to remedy it?
They were isolated while we were away. If it happened to me it may have happened to others - if not, why just me?
The plan is to swap out two for those "in stock" and then subject the casualties to some rigorous in-shed ionic excercise.
Any comments, similar experience, etc. welcome.

Thanks in anticipation
 
Cold weather don't damage healthy and charged batteries.
live in a place where winter temperatures can go down to -20 Celsius.
The effect you can get out of a cold battery is reduced but will get back to normal when temperature is normal again.

A discharged battery can freeze.
 
Probably teaching you to suck egs here Bill. When you say isolated I take it you mean a completely open circuit to the boat electrics. Were they also isolated from each other? Could one be duff and it has killed the others. Seperate them all and see how they react to charging individually. I'm in the same bit of water (almost) and haven't had any bother.
 
Cold doesn't hurt batteries at all (as long as they don't freeze, which they won't if charged up.)
Batteries deteriorate much more when it's warm.
The cold exposes the damage that's already there but hasn't shown itself, because the chemical reactions in the battery are slower, while the cranking current demand is higher because of thick oil etc.
 
I had a boat starter battery which was okay one weekend and dead the next, a few winters back.
The weather had been icy.
 
If they were down to 8V @ below freezing,I strongly suspect the "fluid" has frozen.Be careful of acid leaks as they thaw out.
They must have been discharged somehow in order to drop to 8V &/OR freeze-either they were at end of life,or there is an unknown drain.Good,fully charged bats. can sit all winter @ -40C,& work fine whenever needed.May be a bit "grunty" rolling eng. over,due to thick lube oil & decreased chemistry,though.
Bats. can fail from age,just sitting there.The plates get thin & crumbly thru age,& one good bump shatters a plate(s).
In any event,they are ruined.You may bring them back,for light duty,but they will never be trustworthy again.IMHO
Sorry / Len
 
Billjratt said:
I had to row through ice to get to the boat yesterday, an interesting experience, hard work and noisy. (Salt water, We're in Troon)
When I got there I found the batteries were flat - as in 8 volts. Fired up the generator and they seemed to take the 30amp charge, but it soon dropped away as the battery voltage rose unusually quickly. Managed to get the engine started by blocking the air inlet to decompress, but the big alternator gave similar symptoms to the generator, quickly settling to about 5 amps between 4 110AH batteries!
The batteries were fine last time we were down at the boat, so have I got instantaneous sulphation? - and if so, why, and is there anything that can be done to remedy it?
They were isolated while we were away. If it happened to me it may have happened to others - if not, why just me?
The plan is to swap out two for those "in stock" and then subject the casualties to some rigorous in-shed ionic excercise.
Any comments, similar experience, etc. welcome.

Thanks in anticipation
Click to expand...

Doesn't the fact that they took 30Amps (yes, pretty high), but at least they took Amps whereas dead batteries wouldn't - sound like a good omen.
And battery voltage increasing (as long as not above 15V) good too?

My dead batts have always failed to take amps - a clear indication of kaput.

Agree, would row them ashore and charge separately, get a CTEK charger for £50 - super kit.

If they fail, stick 'em in garden with a solar panel and hook up a load of garden lights (LEDs)
 
Today I revisited (carrying two batteries) having read the early replies - thanks.
The set-up is as follows : #1 starter, #2 domestic -two in parallel, #3 windlass. All 110AH and charged via an FET splitter from a 65amp alternator plus Adverc, or a multivolt 25A mains charger connected to banks #1 & #2 only.
Measuring (voltage) after having dragged them out of their snug boxes, it transpired (yes Ian!) that one of the domestic pair was down and immediately accused of dragging it's partner with it. Also, the sense wire is connected to the domestic bank, so if it offered weird feedback then everyone else would suffer...
Anyway, I swapped out the worst-looking two, banged in the pair that had been in the garage since being displaced by the batteries under discussion (gettit) and hey-presto -vroom vroom. I have the naughty battery and it's closest mate on charge at home and tomorrow will reveal more I hope.
I also brought the club drop tester into the argument, but it looks as if someone has abused it... back to the coathanger and voltmeter!
 
I used to sell batteries when they were made properly. (1960's - 1970's Lucas,Exide,Chrompton,Oldham etc) I dont like these enclosed batteries I prefer the ones with the lead connections across the top and individual topping up lids.
In 1982 I bought a couple of New Exide Batteries, the type which were enclosed for a boat I had just bought.
They were faulty and were the subject to a re-call but the battery seller couldent be bothered to send them back. Anyway they failed between Falmouth and Cork. Fortunatly being a well known make I had them replaced when back in the UK.
My present boat has 2 x 12v. 110 amp batteries which the previous owner bought in 2012.
I intend to bin them and buy new. I am not going to sea with batteries that are three years old. Mind you they are probably older as the invoice for the batteries is 2012 and one is missing a manufacturing date.
You cant be too careful with batteries especially if you have a big, old, diesel engine.
 
knuterikt said:
Cold weather don't damage healthy and charged batteries.
live in a place where winter temperatures can go down to -20 Celsius.
The effect you can get out of a cold battery is reduced but will get back to normal when temperature is normal again.

A discharged battery can freeze.
Click to expand...

I lived in -40C climate for some years. Never killed good batteries with proper electrolyte...yours are prob past their "best by" date...

GL.
 
Ice on the pontoon. On the boat for the first time since before Christmas and the ex car starter battery( 12.5v before any work) failed to start the little Yanmar QM15 and the no-name 110Ah house battery bought last year, <£60 delivered (12.6v before anything) cranked it fine for quite a long time and away it went.

On leaving, I always physically isolate both batts by removing the clamps so no chance of parasitics other than damp battery cases.

Tricky if you need auto bilge pump/security etc.
 
Billjratt said:
Today I revisited (carrying two batteries) having read the early replies - thanks.
The set-up is as follows : #1 starter, #2 domestic -two in parallel, #3 windlass. All 110AH and charged via an FET splitter from a 65amp alternator plus Adverc, or a multivolt 25A mains charger connected to banks #1 & #2 only.
Measuring (voltage) after having dragged them out of their snug boxes, it transpired (yes Ian!) that one of the domestic pair was down and immediately accused of dragging it's partner with it. Also, the sense wire is connected to the domestic bank, so if it offered weird feedback then everyone else would suffer...
Anyway, I swapped out the worst-looking two, banged in the pair that had been in the garage since being displaced by the batteries under discussion (gettit) and hey-presto -vroom vroom. I have the naughty battery and it's closest mate on charge at home and tomorrow will reveal more I hope.
I also brought the club drop tester into the argument, but it looks as if someone has abused it... back to the coathanger and voltmeter!
Click to expand...

If ,by FET splitter,you are charging 2 banks via a diode splitter(N.American name),you can't get a full charge into both banks.This is because your sense wire is conn. to only one bank,& charging will cease when the bank with sense wire is "satisfied".There is a .7V drop across diodes,so the un-sensed bank will never get up beyond .7V less (or worse) than the sensed bank. Use a Voltage Sensing Relay (VSR) instead.
I may be all wet here,as your splitter method may,somehow,work differently,& sense both bats. & allow equal full charge.
Glad to hear you found a weak cell in one bat.That would definitely drag the parallel bat.down to same level.Suspect you may have 2 bad cells in that bat.,as you mentioned bat.bank was down 4V. Cheers / Len
 
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