Has anyone replaced a Volvo 2002 heat exchanger with something else?

[Houleaux]

Or does anyone know where you can get one tested / reconditioned at a reasonable price (new ones are week over £1k!).

I'm not actually sure that I have a problem with mine, but I have had ongoing issues with my cooling system - from sea water in the fresh water circuit (cured for a while - maybe still? - by new seals in the heat exchanger) to coolant loss (apparently cured, until recently, with new seals on all the coolant pipes).

Lately the issue has been the level of water in the header tank dropping by about 500ml. It always needed this much water when checked, whether it had been run or just left overnight (or left for a couple of weeks for that matter), but there has never been any water collected under the engine.

Then, having to motor back across the channel recently (boo!), I topped it up the usual amount after a couple of hours (the header tank cap can be unscrewed without drama - no pressure in the system) and then never had to do so again. Just been down to the boat and the header tank is full! I've tasted the water but can't make up my mind if it's salty or not.

There's no water in the oil and the engine doesn't appear to be overheating (the light doesn't come on although I'm not sure I trust it - It comes on when the key is turned and goes out once the engine starts, but I don't know if that's a guarantee that all's well).

Maybe I should just leave well alone. I sail rather than motor whenever possible in any case.

But if there is salt water in the fresh water system, what damage is being done (there's no anode fitted). And if the two are mixing, I can't keep antifreeze in the system of course....

Sorry for the waffle. Any ideas anyone? On any of the above?!

 

[MoodySabre]

You could ask a local car radiator repair shop of this I'd something they could do. Some here seem happy to do it themselves.

 

[pvb]

It wouldn't be particulary easy to replace your heat exchanger with something else, because of the way the Volvo plumbing is arranged (the copper pipes with rubber sealing rings are held in position by the heat exchanger).

You say there's no pressure in your system, but the header tank cap has a spring-loaded pressure relief mechanism, so there should be some pressure in it.

It might be worth your while chatting to your local VP dealership - they have enormous experience of these engines and, in my experience, are always happy to help.

 

[Houleaux]

It wouldn't be particulary easy to replace your heat exchanger with something else, because of the way the Volvo plumbing is arranged (the copper pipes with rubber sealing rings are held in position by the heat exchanger).

You say there's no pressure in your system, but the header tank cap has a spring-loaded pressure relief mechanism, so there should be some pressure in it.

It might be worth your while chatting to your local VP dealership - they have enormous experience of these engines and, in my experience, are always happy to help.

Thanks pvb.

I found a video on youtube of a fresh water conversion on a 2003. A Bowman heat exchanger / header tank had been used and it looked like a neat job. It looked like a combination of Volvo piping and rubber hoses had been used to connect it all together and I wouldn't think that would be all that difficult to do. The existing arrangement all seems a bit Heath Robinson to me! The Heat exchanger / header tank was mounted on the top of the engine although I couldn't see exactly how. Presumably the location isn't that important and I could mount it in place of my existing header tank to the inside of the engine box. It would be good to hear from someone who'd already done the job first though!

I agree that there should be pressure in the system and that the cap could be the culprit. Presumably any leak - externally or between the salt and fresh water elements of the heat exchanger - would have the same effect though. I really struggle to understand why it was always about 500ml that was lost (until recently that is!). Maybe I should invest in a cooling system pressure tester.

You're probably right about talking to the local VP dealership. I suspect they'll need to look at the engine to get to the bottom if it though and, once the meter starts running, that can get expensive....

 

[Houleaux]

You could ask a local car radiator repair shop of this I'd something they could do. Some here seem happy to do it themselves.

Good point. You've reminded me that there's a place near me called Serck Services who do car radiators. They may also be able to sort the heat exchanger. I'll give them a call.

Thanks.

 

[pvb]

You're probably right about talking to the local VP dealership. I suspect they'll need to look at the engine to get to the bottom if it though and, once the meter starts running, that can get expensive....

They may well be able to suggest things you can test yourself first. As I said, I've found VP dealers are incredibly helpful and are willing to share their knowledge.

 

[RichardPerou]

They may well be able to suggest things you can test yourself first. As I said, I've found VP dealers are incredibly helpful and are willing to share their knowledge.

No they are not! Dismar in France are to be avoided

 

[pvb]

No they are not! Dismar in France are to be avoided

That's a shame, all the ones I've talked to have been helpful.

 

[scottie]

The oil cooler on the non turbo versions is an add on as part of the fresh water conversion kit which was available at much lower price than the components so worth checking if still available.

The water flow through the heat exchanger is easy to get wrong if the seals and end caps are not fitted in the correct inclanation it has 4 sections
Water flows along one quarter and is reversed back along adjacent qtr then along the Ist direction and finally back along 4th qtr

 

[paddywackcocker]

Bowman is a good way to go. Work out what size you need and get your pipe fittings from a hydraulic pipe fabricator.
Did it on a 2003t, got a bowman exchanger on good old eBay, had been sitting around in someone's garage, brand new. (a tad larger than needed). The pipes cost a bit because of the angled banjo fittings and went for heavy duty hydraulic pipe.
Exchanger =£112
Pipes and fittings = £ 132.43
Easy to fit and easier to access
I think VP one was about £870+

 

[cryan]

Good point. You've reminded me that there's a place near me called Serck Services who do car radiators. They may also be able to sort the heat exchanger. I'll give them a call.

Thanks.

Not sure if the same company but Serck are one of the biggest manufacturers of marine coolers in the world.
http://www.serckheatexchange.co.uk/marine-industry/

As long as the cooler casing is in good nick then the tube nest can usually be fixed.

 

[Houleaux]

Bowman is a good way to go. Work out what size you need and get your pipe fittings from a hydraulic pipe fabricator.
Did it on a 2003t, got a bowman exchanger on good old eBay, had been sitting around in someone's garage, brand new. (a tad larger than needed). The pipes cost a bit because of the angled banjo fittings and went for heavy duty hydraulic pipe.
Exchanger =£112
Pipes and fittings = £ 132.43
Easy to fit and easier to access
I think VP one was about £870+

That's very interesting. Don't suppose you have any photos of the installation, do you? And how did you secure the metal pipes at the engine end - if you see what I mean!

 

[Houleaux]

Not sure if the same company but Serck are one of the biggest manufacturers of marine coolers in the world.
http://www.serckheatexchange.co.uk/marine-industry/

As long as the cooler casing is in good nick then the tube nest can usually be fixed.

Thanks Cryan. That's encouraging. Looks like I may have two viable options then - a refurb or a Bowman replacement. I'll look into the cost / complexity / advantages of both.

 

[paddywackcocker]

Oops

Got some photos filed some ware.
Remote mounted so went from metal fittings to braided hoses to exchanger.
Makes that side of the engine, starter motor and pipe work much easier.
Will try dig pics out, if not ill take a quick snap at the weekend.
Paddy

 

[Houleaux]

Got some photos filed some ware.
Remote mounted so went from metal fittings to braided hoses to exchanger.
Makes that side of the engine, starter motor and pipe work much easier.
Will try dig pics out, if not ill take a quick snap at the weekend.
Paddy

Thanks. That'd be really helpful. No particular hurry as it'll be a while before I get around to doing the job in any case!

 

[bigwow]

Got some photos filed some ware.
Remote mounted so went from metal fittings to braided hoses to exchanger.
Makes that side of the engine, starter motor and pipe work much easier.
Will try dig pics out, if not ill take a quick snap at the weekend.
Paddy

I'd be interested in your installation pics as well, for future reference just in case it's needed.

 

[Sans Bateau]

Houleaux, to confirm your fears or thoughts, I have had a very similar experience with my 2003. I did test my heat exchanger at home with some spare bits I had laying around. Without going into to fine a detail, I filled the fresh side of the exchanger with water, heating it with a blow lamp 'till it was approx operating temp. I then applied low pressure compressed air to the seawater side. Bubbles were clearly seen leaking from the pipes. So if your issue is exactly the same as mine it is as a result of corrosion in the pipework matrix inside the exchanger.

All this will not make your current exchanger any better, but it will confirm that a search for a replacement is the way forward. My system is (or should that be was) holding up, so I work on the basis of dont fix wot aint bust!

Paddywackcocker - good to see you back on the forum Pat!

 

[Bilgediver]

The oil cooler on the non turbo versions is an add on as part of the fresh water conversion kit which was available at much lower price than the components so worth checking if still available.

The water flow through the heat exchanger is easy to get wrong if the seals and end caps are not fitted in the correct inclanation it has 4 sections
Water flows along one quarter and is reversed back along adjacent qtr then along the Ist direction and finally back along 4th qtr

This is a good point moreover if the end cover clips are not tightened correctly there can be leakage between the sea and fresh water circuits giving the symptoms described.