Has anyone got a 1" skin fitting to hand?

Yellow Ballad

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Could you measure the ID from the flange end? I need to cut a socket to remove my raw water inlet but the boat is 100 miles away.

(The fitting is moving in the hull I just need to hold it to remove the elbow on the inside to rebed.)

Many thanks in advance.
 
Could you measure the ID from the flange end? I need to cut a socket to remove my raw water inlet but the boat is 100 miles away.

(The fitting is moving in the hull I just need to hold it to remove the elbow on the inside to rebed.)

Many thanks in advance.

IIRC the size is the nominal I/D BUT they make the walls thinner, anyway see the previous post for more definitive info
Stu
 
I could probably lay my hands on one, but can I clarify - what bit of the fitting is 1" (outside thread, tail, etc) and also what's it made of?

1" is the thread OD so a 1" hole in the boat. It's the ID of the flange side hole where the "ears" are. I need to cut a socket to hold the skin fitting whilst I undo the elbow.

Edit, sorry DZR
 
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1" is the thread OD so a 1" hole in the boat. It's the ID of the flange side hole where the "ears" are. I need to cut a socket to hold the skin fitting whilst I undo the elbow.

Edit, sorry DZR
If its 1" OD then looking at that link I posted, 3/4" bsp is 26mm OD and 24mm ID ish.
Stu
 
I just measured my cockpit drain flange, which is 1"OD DZR Brass, making it 3/4" BSP The tool I use to hold the lugs is made from 20mm OD galvanised conduit, but it's a tight fit if you have old antifouling and crud in there.

Stu's post is probably more reliable, given the variables - but you only need a flat bar, preferably tapered at the sides, anyway.
 
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I need to cut a socket to remove my raw water inlet but the boat is 100 miles away.

I had a bit made for 3/4"BSP skin fittings - was going to cut a socket but guy with the tools suggested making a new piece from Aluminium was easier. Anyway, to cut the story short, I gave him a skin fitting to test and he warned me that it was tapered a little and he had to taper the bit to match, so worth being wary of that.

The reason I chose Al was to make it easier to make minor adjustments if necessary, but they haven't been necessary. It really does make working on a skin fitting far easier than using any improvised alternative.
 
Thanks all, at least I'll have something to try (as well as an few other things that might work).

Worst comes to it I can cut it out and replace it but if I can get it done when I'm next down it'll save me another trip.
 
I had a bit made for 3/4"BSP skin fittings - was going to cut a socket but guy with the tools suggested making a new piece from Aluminium was easier. Anyway, to cut the story short, I gave him a skin fitting to test and he warned me that it was tapered a little and he had to taper the bit to match, so worth being wary of that.

The reason I chose Al was to make it easier to make minor adjustments if necessary, but they haven't been necessary. It really does make working on a skin fitting far easier than using any improvised alternative.

Just cutting a couple of slots in a socket is quick and cheap, and the socket can still be used afterwards. I reckon a typical 14mm socket has a diameter of 19.5mm, which should be fine for the OP's skin fitting.
 
Just cutting a couple of slots in a socket is quick and cheap, and the socket can still be used afterwards. I reckon a typical 14mm socket has a diameter of 19.5mm, which should be fine for the OP's skin fitting.

That was my first idea, but to be honest now I have a specially made piece I have to say that it is excellent and I'm glad I went down that route. It has a M24 head machined on the top and it's very easy just to use a ring spanner to hold it steady. I'll need one for 1 1/4" fittings in 2019 and will go the same way.

PS The main point of my earlier post was to pass on the warning that the skin fitting might have a slight taper inside at least at the head end.
 
PS The main point of my earlier post was to pass on the warning that the skin fitting might have a slight taper inside at least at the head end.

Yes, the hole tends to flare out a bit, but if the OP uses the bore dimension as a guide he should be OK.
 
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