Hardy Fishing 24 - Volvo AD41 overheated

markslater

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Just bought a Hardy 24 and towed it 350 miles back to Chatham. We had one a few years back - decided to get back into one after a 10 year boat break.

Went for a quick trip out this evening - got about 10mins slowly cruising down river, when the overheating alarm went off.
(I ought to have been watching the dials more, but I had forgotten how much steering concentration they require at low speed)

Got a tow back after a few cursory checks and realising that we were almost tool less ( 2nd schoolboy error).

Back at the marina and with the engine cooler, fired up and noticed no water coming out the top of the strainer when loosened. Turned engine off, poured water into the strainer and refired up - water gushing.

Strainer top back on - ran engine at slightly elevated revs and everything was cool and gauge remained static.

In my head, was thinking that there was an air lock, possibly caused during the road haulage home ?

Will check the impeller tomorrow as it may have been running dry ?

My question : is there a way to tell in future if this same problem is recurring ? You can't see the exhaust water as it expels out the sterndrive underwater, you can't see into the strainer as it's a metal housing with a black screw lid.

My concern is that we won't really know there is a problem like this, until the water gauge goes too high and the alarm comes on.

Am I missing something basic after a long break from boat ownership.

Not our best maiden trip out..
 
Hi
Sounds like an air lock problem right enough.
I also know that if the strainer lid is not sealing properly, it doesn't pump water.
What I mean by this is if you have the lid off the strainer, it won't pump water through the engine. Perhaps it was not sealed or seated properly until you primed and replaced the lid ?
 
If it's a 290dp drive and you are worried about checking water flow next time, you may be able to trim the leg up enough to see water flow from the exhaust exit at the top of the drive. Just reach off the bathing platform (if possible) and hold the rubber flap open and you should see or feel it.....if the drive is close to the surface or exposed.
I wouldn't do this too often right enough, it's not good for the UJ running with the drive tilted up. Just perhaps a couple of times to put your mind at rest until you trust the thing !
All the best
 
It sounds like the seawater pump didn't self-prime.
It's worth checking the seawater pump cover plate for wear. If worn, replace. Cheap fix.
If the pump itself is worn, then that's not a cheap fix, but you can put off Uncle Big Bill by taking off the strainer top and pouring a couple of litres of water in there after a relaunch.
You can tell if the pump has primed, because if it's full of seawater the pump coverplate will be cold. A pump that gets warmer and warmer will not be a happy pump.
 
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At the marina where I had my boat there was a Hardy 24 Fishing Boat with a volvo engine and they were having overheating problems. perhaps its a problem with how they are plumbed on these particular boats.
 
As a precaution I would remove the impeller and check its condition, esp if it was airlocked for as long as you say. New impeller isin't going to break the bank and will give peace of mind.
 
Just bought a Hardy 24 and towed it 350 miles back to Chatham. We had one a few years back - decided to get back into one after a 10 year boat break.

Went for a quick trip out this evening - got about 10mins slowly cruising down river, when the overheating alarm went off.
(I ought to have been watching the dials more, but I had forgotten how much steering concentration they require at low speed)

Got a tow back after a few cursory checks and realising that we were almost tool less ( 2nd schoolboy error).

Back at the marina and with the engine cooler, fired up and noticed no water coming out the top of the strainer when loosened. Turned engine off, poured water into the strainer and refired up - water gushing.

Strainer top back on - ran engine at slightly elevated revs and everything was cool and gauge remained static.

In my head, was thinking that there was an air lock, possibly caused during the road haulage home ?

Will check the impeller tomorrow as it may have been running dry ?

My question : is there a way to tell in future if this same problem is recurring ? You can't see the exhaust water as it expels out the sterndrive underwater, you can't see into the strainer as it's a metal housing with a black screw lid.

My concern is that we won't really know there is a problem like this, until the water gauge goes too high and the alarm comes on.

Am I missing something basic after a long break from boat ownership.

Not our best maiden trip out..

I have had the problem of not getting an absolutely perfect seal on the black plastic lid of my VP water strainer meaning the pump will not prime and the engine overheats. My VP strainer does not have a seal on the lit, the lid tightens onto the strainer basket which has a soft rubbery rim which is then forced onto the inside of the body of the strainer. In the end i replaced the lid with a diy clear perspex one with a rubber seal which is easier to make seal and i can instantly tell i have water flow.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
I have had the problem of not getting an absolutely perfect seal on the black plastic lid of my VP water strainer meaning the pump will not prime and the engine overheats. My VP strainer does not have a seal on the lit, the lid tightens onto the strainer basket which has a soft rubbery rim which is then forced onto the inside of the body of the strainer. In the end i replaced the lid with a diy clear perspex one with a rubber seal which is easier to make seal and i can instantly tell i have water flow.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

Also the clear lid allows you to see the table tennis ball inside bouncing about, Have Not got a tennis ball?? WHATS GOING ON. LOL
 
A huge thank you for the replies - the impeller had indeed been damaged by, in essence, running dry for about 10 mins.

I've ordered a new impeller, impeller case (to try and improve the seal as it was a little scored) and also a new rubber gasket for the strainer lid.

Would be interested in how to change the water strainer with a clear Perspex version as I'm a little paranoid about circulation now.

Is there one that I could buy ?

REALLY do appreciate the help on this - thank you !
 
You can also get exhaust temp alarms fitted which will sound earlier than the overheat alarm in the fresh water system. Probably not fast enough to save the impeller, but to save the engine, especially if you're running at high revs.

I had exactly the same thing happen as you a few years ago (boat had been out of the water and pump lost its prime) - my impeller melted into a blob of rubber!

There are 2 basic checks I do now - one is to check the exhaust bend temp after running for a few mins. Should be cooler than the turbo, even at idle. After repriming the system following lift out, I check the raw water pump temp (mind hands near belts if you do this or stop the engine). It should be cold, even after running.
 
A huge thank you for the replies - the impeller had indeed been damaged by, in essence, running dry for about 10 mins.

I've ordered a new impeller, impeller case (to try and improve the seal as it was a little scored) and also a new rubber gasket for the strainer lid.

Would be interested in how to change the water strainer with a clear Perspex version as I'm a little paranoid about circulation now.

Is there one that I could buy ?

REALLY do appreciate the help on this - thank you !

Hi, I will reply to your PM with a photo of my clear plastic lid modification.

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
I had problems with the Volvo strainer on my TAMD41. In the end I dumped it and fitted a Vetus strainer. This is a simpler design and has an accrylic lid.
 
I was told to prime my TAMD40b strainer after lift outs. It will actually self prime, but I suspect it's good to prime if in any doubt!
 
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