Hand rail and gunnels renovation.

[alandav123]

Hi all, my 32 foot MFV Dignity has got some issues now with wear and tear to the point where the hand rails need removing and damage to the gunnel top sides needs scarfing in....
The handrail system has been built out of standard plumbers pipe at about 1" thick with the tee pieces creating the down struts etc etc.....it runs the whole length of the boat so ideally I would like to be able to do it in sections.....my question is.....using either oxygen acytelyn gear or a butane blow torch etc to provide enough heat...whats the chances I could use stillsons to acutally thread the fittings apart rather than cut them through and all the welding etc that would then also need doing...if there was a cat in hells chance to unscrew them bit by bit ..I would fork out for a half size rig and do it myself...I did welding, burning years ago so know whats what. I just don't want to fork out for heating gear if there no chance the fittings will separate.

Once the hand rails are off I intend to copy patterns and recut topsides in either marine ply which would allow bigger longer curves OR use read wood and use shorter pieces. I want to do the work as the gunnels and bent broken handrails make her look shoddy..apart from that she is a very solid boat.

Your thoughts

Alan

 

[Eyore]

Some pictures to illustrate your description may may help .

 

[johnlilley]

Reference the galvanised h/railing: The easiest and cleanest method is to just hacksaw through the rails at chosen points, remove the section & fit internal tubular or solid rod sleeves at the junctions. Rivet the sleeve into both old & new sections using a full through steel or copper nail rivets (copper is easier to rivet & although copper & steel react in seawater, in practice in this circumstance if painted immediately with galvafroid or similar, will not cause any problem for many years) The joint cannot be seen if cut accurately and no risk of heat damage plus the rail remains flush without any obvious joins.

John Lilley

 

[alandav123]

John that is a very good idea indeed and I thank you for it..I wish I had posted this ages ago........once cut through I can use my vernier gauge to accurately measure inside diameter of pipe, then sourse rod lenghts or Heavy pipe length that will slide in for an amost Perfect match....emery away any rough bits, burrs etc and it will be strong and reliable without the need for heat.....really really great suggestion...I dont save this often but this is the internet at its best...Thanks Alan in Arbroath.....