Halfords Split Pins OK for securing bottle screws?

Vega1447

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I'm almost ashamed to admit it but when I saw the box of ?500+ ss split pins in Halfords here in Limerick Ireland, I bought them on the basis that even if they were not marine grade ss they would be "good enough" for securing bottle screw on standing rigging.

Was I right?

Comments welcome.. thanks.
 
Personally I'm not sure the concept of "good enough" would apply to split pins. Seems to be they do a job of securing vital equipment and cost pennies. When I think of all of the areas I could economise on the boat, saving money on split pins comes well down the list!

For a serious answer the question is what grade of stainless are they?- If you know that then you can answer the question. Without that information you are guessing.
 
Personally I'm not sure the concept of "good enough" would apply to split pins. Seems to be they do a job of securing vital equipment and cost pennies. When I think of all of the areas I could economise on the boat, saving money on split pins comes well down the list!

For a serious answer the question is what grade of stainless are they?- If you know that then you can answer the question. Without that information you are guessing.

I dunno what grade - but I'd be surprised if they were marine grade.

I haven't used them yet - still have some (expensive) Holts bubble-pack ones.

Is the issue corrosion resistance or shearing when the rigging bolts try to twist under load?
 
They will be fine.

My only doubts about split pins is they are a pain to put in and take out and can be a bit spikey if not carefully turned over. I have gone over to nuts and bolts, but that is another kettle of worms. Someone will be along in a bit to say what happens if the bolts come undone or evaporate or get transported into inter stellar space.

They will probably say the same about your Halfords split pins as well.
 
I'm almost ashamed to admit it but when I saw the box of ?500+ ss split pins in Halfords here in Limerick Ireland, I bought them on the basis that even if they were not marine grade ss they would be "good enough" for securing bottle screw on standing rigging.

Was I right?

Cheap ones are sometimes made from rusty steel and rust within days in seawater leaving a nasty stain on your deck.
 
Why use split pins? Try seizing wire instead, cheap, quicker to deploy and you don't need manky tape to stop your trousers being torn to shreds.
 
Split pins are available in 304 and 316 stainless steel. Cheap ones are more likely to be 304 but check with a magnet to ensure they are a 300 series, if not attracted, or possibly very weakly, they are. Ones that are attracted may be carbon steel or perhaps 400 series. 304 is perfectly OK on deck, many marine fittings are made from it.
 
Split pins are available in 304 and 316 stainless steel. Cheap ones are more likely to be 304 but check with a magnet to ensure they are a 300 series, if not attracted, or possibly very weakly, they are. Ones that are attracted may be carbon steel or perhaps 400 series. 304 is perfectly OK on deck, many marine fittings are made from it.

I shall report back having tested as you suggest.
 
Personally I'm not sure the concept of "good enough" would apply to split pins. Seems to be they do a job of securing vital equipment and cost pennies. When I think of all of the areas I could economise on the boat, saving money on split pins comes well down the list!

For a serious answer the question is what grade of stainless are they?- If you know that then you can answer the question. Without that information you are guessing.

I understand your sentiment entirely, yet there is a large step between split pin coming out of the locking hole of a bottle screw and the bottle screw unscrewing all the way off and the mast falling down. Hopefully one inspects the rigging (or keeps an eye on it) and would notice if the 'suspect' split pins started rusting through and falling out. Certainly I would hope that I would notice long before the bottle screw unscrewed itself all the way…

From the number of boats that seem to wander round with no split pins or locking wire etc, its obviously not that much of a issue. (Having said that I once had to leave the boat on the mooring without a locking pin in one of the backstay rigging screws and I had a sleepless night until I got back to the boat with a new pin and found that nothing had moved.)

All the above does NOT apply to clevis pins!
 
FWIW I have a bit of old ss rigging from a previous boat & it's only a few minutes work to cut off a few inches of a single strand & curl it into an overlapping loop (key ring style). These are a doddle to slip into clevis pins, locking bottle screws etc. Just make sure both free ends are tucked & can't catch on sheets & warps etc.

I'll bet "free" is less than you paid! :encouragement:
 
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