pvb
Well-Known Member
I took the injectors out of my 2003 a couple of times for servicing. No difficulty at all.
Gummed up injectors VP 2003
- Thread starter lampshuk
- Start date
I took the injectors out of my 2003 a couple of times for servicing. No difficulty at all.
Heckler
Well-Known Member
I flagged a possible prob, the OP is aware now that in certain circumstances he can get in to trouble! Other peeps have hilighted these issues! In my working life I have done jobs on injectors that were a walk in the park, in others, because of the heat, carbon build up etc have been a pig.
S
Heckler
Well-Known Member
I have had to make pullers, had to cut new seats, had to figure out how to remove copper washers from carboned up inj holes the list is endless. When it is easy it is easy, when it is hard it is a bu gg er! When the good people on here do a bit of PBO ing then they deserve help and warnings as to what can go wrong from those of us that have done this for a living.
For the OP, the removal of the cylinder head is relatively easy so my advice is to be careful, make sure the sleeves arent leaking coolant in to the cylinders, if they are then take the head off, source some VP tools and do a head overhaul as well as getting the inj serviced.
S
lampshuk
Well-Known Member
Stu et al, many thanks for your input. Totally take it on board, in the spirit it was intended.
At the moment it looks like I have been "lucky".
I'm not looking to remove the head myself. Apart from anything else, I don't have the time, so will probably bottle out and call a professional if it goes in that direction.
Assuming the ij's come back from Panda with a clean bill of health, do I just jam 'em back in? Any special preparation - eg grease or other goop to go around them? I suppose little WD40 wouldn't hurt, just to make sure they don't jam in the sleeves.
No doubt a quick whack with a 3lb hammer will do the trick, if they prove reluctant.
(joking)
I will keep you all posted - including when/whether I find out what the actual problem was in the first place!
At the moment it looks like I have been "lucky".
I'm not looking to remove the head myself. Apart from anything else, I don't have the time, so will probably bottle out and call a professional if it goes in that direction.
Assuming the ij's come back from Panda with a clean bill of health, do I just jam 'em back in? Any special preparation - eg grease or other goop to go around them? I suppose little WD40 wouldn't hurt, just to make sure they don't jam in the sleeves.
No doubt a quick whack with a 3lb hammer will do the trick, if they prove reluctant.
(joking)
I will keep you all posted - including when/whether I find out what the actual problem was in the first place!
Heckler
Well-Known Member
I would spin her over to see if any coolant in the cylinders, if not then a rag wrapped around an implement, slightly greased to pick up bits, give it a light twirl in each of the sleeves. Give them a blast with WD40 and twirl again, basically you are trying to clean them and get bits out, shine a light, make sure no bits for the inj to seat on otherwise they will leak. The inj should come back slatherered in diesel, smear them with grease, insert and tighten down according to the manufacturers specs. 20 ft lbs by the way is a half hearted pull on 12mm spanner! Or it was when I was a hairy ars ed apprentice!
S
pvb
Well-Known Member
VP's spec is 20Nm, not 20 ftlbs! VP say it's equal to 14.7 ftlbs.
lampshuk
Well-Known Member
Any other jobs I should consider while I've got the engine upside down waiting for the coolant to drain?
:friendly_wink:
More seriously: when the ij's come out, should they be dry? Just had the horrible realisation that when they came out they were covered in slimey gunk.
Could either demonstrate that I have indeed dumped the cooling system into the cylinders
or the water-in-fuel problem is far worse than I thought.
Or something else.
Bckolols.
Heckler
Well-Known Member
pvb
Well-Known Member
Don't be childish, you emphasised that the OP should tighten to VP specs, then gave the wrong torque.
Heckler
Well-Known Member
Depends, if the inj have been dribbling and mixture not combusting properly then there could be a black oily residue on the tip of the inj. If the inj was covered on the main body then you need to figure out where that came from. Have the leak off pipes and unions been leaking?
My ref, by the way, to tightening was a generality, to give you an idea of the pressure needed on a spanner when tightening relatively small nuts.
S
Heckler
Well-Known Member
You are so eager to jump in that u dont read properly.
S
pvb
Well-Known Member
Oh, I read very carefully. And I check facts before I post.
Heckler
Well-Known Member
If u read again u will see that I said use the manufacturers recommendations! Then I went on to give an example. Pot calling kettle black?
S
pvb
Well-Known Member
I understand that you're trying to rephrase your post. However, it's immaterial now. Just let it drop, we don't want a recurrence of having to get the mods involved to curb your comments.
lampshuk
Well-Known Member
Yes, there has been a persistent diesel leak, hard to track down.
The wetness was on the main body of the inj, so I will try to have a good look.
Not having a torque wrench (metric or imperial) I will rely on giving it a good old pull with my short-handled Halford socket set. Can't see myself doing any harm with that.
Heckler
Well-Known Member
The OP understands where I am coming from, a good pull on the spanner will be OK as long as the copper seat is OK. Your veiled threat to involve the mods doesnt put you in a good light!
I have put you on ignore so your continued sniping wont be viewable by me.
To the OP, if you have had a continued leak then that would explain the gunge around the inj, probably the washers on the leak off pipes.
S
scottie
Well-Known Member
Just make sure you do not fit washers the sleeves act as washers
Heckler
Well-Known Member
The Rolls Royce Eagles I used to work on in the steel works, we had a cutting tool that we used to use to make sure that the seats were clean before we re assembled.
They did use washers and I soon found out that if there was any bits in there then they would leak, phut phut!
The point I am making is that, scottie you are quite right, no washers under the inj and make sure that the seat is clean.
As an aside Cats were the easiest, just a nozzle, drop it in the body, tighten and that was that!
S
lampshuk
Well-Known Member
Yep, I have had a pack of washers from Keyparts lying around waiting for me to summon up the courage to dismantle the fuel pipe and re-washer it. The return beanies and line seem the most likely culprit.
Which brings me to another stoopid question: why do Diesel engines have a fuel return line? Seems like a lot of extra plumbing and failure points. Wouldn't it be easier to deliver the right amount of fuel in the first place?
Heckler
Well-Known Member
The return pipes or spill pipes as they are known serve two purposes, one they give redundancy in the amount if fuel delivered and secondly the excess fuel is used to cool the injectors, The fuel goes in to the body, when the inj opens under pressure, some of the excess fuel goes to the spill pipes and cools the inj.
S