Gtechniq nano coating - six months on

[scubaman]

This year I decided to try these new nano coatings and decided on Gtechniq’s products. I did a post of this at the time, look here for more details -> http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...niq-coating&p=6037578&mode=linear#post6037578

Six months has passed unbelievably quickly and it’s now time to end the season and put the boat back into the shed for the winter. A good moment to report back on how the product has fared.

The shine has been very good and has lasted well. Also the water has beaded off the surface after each clean. This said, the dirt and black streaks still form a layer on top of the shine which doesn’t seem to be any easier to remove.

I keep the boat practically in the middle of Helsinki, which is obviously a demanding environment for keeping the boat clean. This is our third year in this location but for some reason the boat has never been as dirty at the end of the season. There can of course be many factors affecting this so I’m not blaming the product, just stating a fact.

I cleaned the boat today, and the black crud took some effort to clean and in fact I couldn’t remove everything despite using Starbrites Fiberglass Stain Remover -> http://www.starbrite.com/item/fiberglass-stain-remover-gel-formula The rest will have to be dealt with with a cleaning polish in the spring.

The Stain Remover is not the stongest stuff on Star Brite’s line up but it was enough to take most of the shine with it. Also the water beading is pretty much gone, so it would appear that the nano coating is no more, which is a bit disapointing.

So in short, the shine has been good and longer lasting than with traditional waxes. Still, next spring I’m faced with exactly the same work as before; clean with a polish and then use something to seal the surface.

Considering the cost of the product, I doubt I’m going to use the same make/method. I’m aware that they also have a spray on solution which at least takes less effort to apply. I might try that or use a similar product from a different manufacturer next time around.

Any comments or feedback welcome.

 

[jrudge]

They have a fast product as well that goes on like water and just buffs off. I can do a 58 foot boat in well under an hour and it beats any wax hands down. Lasts 3-4 months - but if i have time i just do it again as iti s so fast.

 

[Phildorset]

That's a nice honest update, thanks for sharing Scubaman.
The 'fast product' sounds interesting... will look into that.

 

[jrudge]

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/131931956002

 

[Magnum]

They have a fast product as well that goes on like water and just buffs off. I can do a 58 foot boat in well under an hour and it beats any wax hands down. Lasts 3-4 months - but if i have time i just do it again as iti s so fast.

It's Gtechniq C2V3 and I've been using it on Magnum. Incredibly easy to apply but after a few months black streaks do take some shifting. Better than nothing but as the OP says you still have to polish fairly regularly which is the hardest work of all.

EDIT: Just seen the ebay link you posted jrudge.

 

[Magnum]

Further thoughts on C2V3 and longevity of finish.

After the initial polish, application of which as jrudge says is really easy. I still think it's a full day's work on a 68 and that would be going flat out. I would then reapply every 6 weeks which would pretty much maintain the surface finish and its hydrophobic properties, although that is still a day's work every 6 weeks.

New Magnum will have a Dometic Spot Zero system installed - https://www.spotzerowater.com/ztc-double-pass-series/

Tank water will then be almost totally free of dissolved solids which means I can just rinse the boat, soap free and let her drip dry. This should ensure the coating last longer and save a colossal amount of drying time.

 

[NGM]

what preparation work is required for the C2V3 ?

 

[Magnum]

what preparation work is required for the C2V3 ?

None if the surface is clean and scratch free, but as with any coating the smoother the surface the longer it lasts.

 

[Whopper]

While not a ceramic coating product, I've used carpro hydra2 on my car to great effect. Just spray it on a wet surface post washing and then agitate it with the hose again. It leaves a very hydrophobic surface and helps "protect" wax etc applied be underneath. Haven't used it on the boat but I'd expect the same good results. Probably similiar to the 'fast product' discussed above.

 

[Trundlebug]

I too used the Gtechniq coatings this season.
I used Exo followed by C1.

I've been impressed by how long the beading lasted, and of course you can't stop the boat getting dirty.
But I've been careful to ensure I only clean the boat with fresh water and a soft cloth or soft brush where I can't reach with the cloth, to ensure I don't wash off the coating with strong chemicals.
On the whole all the black streaks have definitely come off much easier than in the past.
As the boat needs cleaning again at the moment I can't give a current status report, but where the fenders haven't rubbed I'm pretty sure it has maintained its beading and lustre.

It was hard work to apply though. 5 passes around the boat in all IIRC. 1x preclean, 2x Exo and 2x C1. All by hand in small circular motions with a small make-up remover type pad that they supply / recommend. It took me all day for a 33ft boat, and my arms were killing for days afterwards.

Despite that it has saved me time in the season. I haven't had to repolish the hull several times during the season, and especially whilst on our main holiday, which I have appreciated as it's enabled me to enjoy the holiday more and just using the boat instead of constantly maintaining its appearance.

I would use it again. Planning to reapply next time the boat's out of the water - it's got another season to go yet.

 

[henryf]

I've been a fan of Gtechniq for a long time now. The boat is carefully machine mopped every year before the final sealant gets applied with a small pad and the results are black marks which wipe off with a finger. The trick is surface prep before the top coat goes on and that means more than just a quick flash over with a coarse mopping compound.

Henry

 

[scubaman]

My prepping consisted of the following:

- the boat washed when the boat was lifted (don't know which chemical they used, but it was pretty strong to remove most of the black streaks)
- before starting the actual process I wiped the whole boat with a damp cloth again to remove dust, etc. (in the shed, some months after the lift out)
- I went through the whole boat with 3M Extra Fine Compound to remove all the stubborn streaks, etc.
- I then wiped the whole boat with Gtechniq's Panel Wipe, which they recommended for removing the residues from the previous step
- at this point, the surface looked very smooth and clean
- I then applied the Crystal Serum followed by the EXO using small make up remover pads

Is there something you do/would do differently? I'm curious as I genuinely want to understand if I missed something.

 

[Chris H]

While not a ceramic coating product, I've used carpro hydra2 on my car to great effect. Just spray it on a wet surface post washing and then agitate it with the hose again. It leaves a very hydrophobic surface and helps "protect" wax etc applied be underneath. Haven't used it on the boat but I'd expect the same good results. Probably similiar to the 'fast product' discussed above.

I use a similar product on my car, one point to follow very carefully.........never use in sun light, it's a bitch to polish out the streaks when it drys.

 

[Marine Reflections]

My prepping consisted of the following:

- the boat washed when the boat was lifted (don't know which chemical they used, but it was pretty strong to remove most of the black streaks)
- before starting the actual process I wiped the whole boat with a damp cloth again to remove dust, etc. (in the shed, some months after the lift out)
- I went through the whole boat with 3M Extra Fine Compound to remove all the stubborn streaks, etc.
- I then wiped the whole boat with Gtechniq's Panel Wipe, which they recommended for removing the residues from the previous step
- at this point, the surface looked very smooth and clean
- I then applied the Crystal Serum followed by the EXO using small make up remover pads

Is there something you do/would do differently? I'm curious as I genuinely want to understand if I missed something.

Very difficult to say what prep was required, gel coat is truly demanding and every boat is in a different stage that requires different prep. You've prepped well that's for certain, so I know you weren't just slapping it on and expecting perfect results.
Dare I say, you've done more than most owners would normally do and your knowledge is better than most. I remember your application and prep thread, but pictures of shiny doesn't tell the whole story, not knocking you, just trying to help move things on from the very good work you've already done.

If you can't simply wipe away black streaks with a finger, or have to resort to aggresive chemicals such as black streak remover, this could be an indication of the surface condition prior to application, the maintenance washing techniques or even the actual application methods used.

The products (any) are not guaranteed to gain perfect results. It is like expecting to paint a perfect Mona Lisa just by having oil paints, a brush and some canvas.
There is what you know, what you don't know and what you don't know that you don't know!

The reality is that it takes more knowledge, skill, attention to detail and time than most imagine. In a world of being oversold, it is very rare for someone to pay for, or learn the stages that perfection demands.
I've been told many, many times "It only costs £5 etc per ft in my yard to mop and polish, can you beat that?" My reply is always "they must know something I dont, because I cant work for a month for a few hundred quid.

I'm over 30 years into trying to master the ideal protection scenario, almost an un-healthy obsession and can tell you with no doubt, that the more perfect the surface condition, the easier the surfaces are going to be to maintain, regardless of which product you use.
Gtechniq are certainly well respected products, you are using what works and I know just how frustrating it is, but again, learning all the elements of how the variables fit together is not as easy as it seems. Note - I am still very much learning this complex subject.
If one thinks they understand it because they have created a shine out of a dull surface, they are at the start.

There are a few things to consider if writing about it on a postage stamp:

1, Once a gelcoat has been oxidised to a certain degree, it is going to be more prone to oxidation in the future. This does not mean that you can't gain a shine, or that it won't be protected for any length of time, just that the gelcoat at the molecular level would have been compromised and the cycle going back from shiny to dull would be shortened more than if it had never been oxidised in the past. This is why it is so important to protect from new and follow a safe wash and protection program. Prevention is much better than correction.

2, The fact that black streaks are not easily removed is a sign that the gelcoat (although shiny) was not perfectly flat and uniformed. It would have highs and lows at a microscopic level to sit in. Chemicals can access them, but it won't correct them. Harsh chemicals and a brush in the wrong hands will create them! At this point the 3M Extra fine compound is not aggressive enough to level them without hours and hours in the same square ft. You would have needed to go back a few stages to perhaps Imperial on a white pad, then follow on the stages up to perhaps Finnesse it final and then the Extra fine, of course changing pad fibre softness as you go and keeping them clean, not overloaded.

3, The problem with starting with a finish (when more is needed) is that it can 'look' finished through oils and fillers, but in reality it is in the same position underneath. There is a way to determine this; wipe the surface with acetone to remove all traces of everything sat on and within the surface, now take a strong torch / lamp and shine it directly on the surface pointing back at your eyeline. Wear good shades and perhaps do this at night, you will highlight every flaw in the surface.
With this technique, light will travel along the tiniest of flaws - swirls, very, very light scratches and so on, all of which detract the surface's overall clarity and reflection. In short, they are the microscopic highs and lows. Much is at play at the microscopic level. The highs and lows are the roads which sunlight travels along the surface, the longer the road, the more exposure to damage.

4, Wash the boat yourself. Never ever pay for a wash as part of a lift unless it is pressure washing below the waterline.
Lifting a boat is a skill, washing a boat is a skill.
I have never seen a wash performed by a yard hand that has utilised a safe wash down method.

Lastly, practice perfection on one square ft. Get this area right before letting yourself loose on the vast landscape, you will save a ton of learning time. And.... don't beat yourself up or be disappointed with what you've done so far, she looked really good on the last thread and you should be proud with what you've acheived as I'm sure you are.

Tony

 

[MapisM]

I'm over 30 years into trying to master the ideal protection scenario, almost an un-healthy obsession and...
[...]
I am still very much learning this complex subject.

Thanks Tony for sharing your experience.
I had some doubts about whether it's worth trying to make the gelcoat of the 13yo boat I bought this summer as shiny as it was, and you just blew them away.
What's wrong with somewhat opaque gelcoat, after all...?

 

[scubaman]

Thank you Tony for the very informative post! Information increases the pain, is a saying here .

Everything you say makes sense to me. Given that I'm only willing to invest a certain amount of hours into the surface, my thinking is that I would be best off by going the surface over twice with 3M compounds and then use a spray on coating mentioned above? And accept that I will fall short form a perfect result. Even this will take me maybe 25-30 hours just for the superstructure. Compromises, compromises...

During the season I used Autoglym's car shampoo (green label) and a car wash mitten. This seemed a very unaggressive approach as in fact rubbing with a finger removed some of the streaks that were left from the wash. But a bit remained and the grime accumulated...

 

[Volante Pilot]

I too used the Gtechniq coatings this season.
I used Exo followed by C1.

I've been impressed by how long the beading lasted, and of course you can't stop the boat getting dirty.
But I've been careful to ensure I only clean the boat with fresh water and a soft cloth or soft brush where I can't reach with the cloth, to ensure I don't wash off the coating with strong chemicals.
On the whole all the black streaks have definitely come off much easier than in the past.
As the boat needs cleaning again at the moment I can't give a current status report, but where the fenders haven't rubbed I'm pretty sure it has maintained its beading and lustre.

It was hard work to apply though. 5 passes around the boat in all IIRC. 1x preclean, 2x Exo and 2x C1. All by hand in small circular motions with a small make-up remover type pad that they supply / recommend. It took me all day for a 33ft boat, and my arms were killing for days afterwards.

Despite that it has saved me time in the season. I haven't had to repolish the hull several times during the season, and especially whilst on our main holiday, which I have appreciated as it's enabled me to enjoy the holiday more and just using the boat instead of constantly maintaining its appearance.

I would use it again. Planning to reapply next time the boat's out of the water - it's got another season to go yet.

Hi,
I read that you used EXO first and then C1? Is that correct?

In that case you have used it the wrong way I believe. On my cars I have C1 and their newer Crystal Serum Light , which is then coated with EXO. That will give it the hydrophobic coating.

I need to try it on my boat now since I have very good results from using their products on black cars.

 

[Marine Reflections]

Hi,
I read that you used EXO first and then C1? Is that correct?

In that case you have used it the wrong way I believe. On my cars I have C1 and their newer Crystal Serum Light , which is then coated with EXO. That will give it the hydrophobic coating.

I need to try it on my boat now since I have very good results from using their products on black cars.

I read that as well, certain it was a typo of sorts as Trundlebug knows better. Plus, he goes on to metion the beading was working, I'm thinking if they were indeed the wrong way round he wouldn't have had this and the C1 would have been very hard to apply to a hydrophobic surface.

Put our minds at ease TB... typo or uh-oh?