GRP polisher

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cliffdale

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Im looking to buy a grp polisher. The hull does not need cutting back, just a shine ready for spring. Ive got a B&Q orbital polisher which is pretty useless!

Ive seen this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TRADE-POLISHER-SAN...1QQcmdZViewItem

Would this be suitable, or would it cause more damage than good?
Im scared that I will melt, scorch or burn rings into the hull.

Any advice on which polisher would be appreciated.
Cliff
 
we've got something similar to that, it's good for covering large areas quickly but it lashes polish everywhere so you spend the next 4hrs cleaning up all the speks of dried polish within 40ft of the machine. It's very easy to burn 'sharp" edges, but you'd need to hold it flat in one place for a long time on a flat bit of grp to do any damage
 
im a car/ boat valeter and i use that model as a back up to a much more expensive one. that model will do the job perfectly well. if you get the teqniuqe right and keep the sponge and grp damp but not really wet or you will spray polish over a very wide area. to stop burning ogf grp keep the speed to low to medium.
 
Cheers for that, how often do you use the polisher? Is it just once at the start of the season or is it often used in the season?
Im just wondering if its an item you would miss if you got rid of it?
Cliff
 
Nick
Thanks. just ordering it now!!

Ill get back to you for the right polish to use. The hull is in good condition so a surface polish will do. Top sides are a bit rain stained but the grp is not oxidised/ powdery yet.
Cliff
 
Hi Cliff
I use Farclae G3 compound which is a milder cutting compound followed by Autoglym super resin polish. The result produces a very satisfying shine you can shave in!
Paul
 
We used to polish our boat every spring. The most difficult part was getting rid of the black streaks around the sides and the superstructure.

We found the best way to get rid of those was to clean that area using Autoglym super resin polish. By this i mean applying wax to the stained area and the just rubbing the wax and the dirt gently away. When this is done using a clean cloth all the time, dirt and wax comes easily off and you don't end up waxing the dirt into the surface for good. (Actually we did this for the whole boat.)

After that we just applied a new layer of wax.

Autoglym is great, because you don't need to use force (or machines) to polish it. Just wipe it off after its dry.

A lot of work still, but good result as well.
 
I have a silverline polisher. Its ok, but a bit heavy after a while, but it does actually polish, which is more than the car type. Get plenty of sponges as they tend to shred in seconds if ytou catch anything (like a cleat, or convas clip) A couple of grades of Farecla will get the grime off. I use teflon polishes, and unless you put it on too thick, it seems about as quick by hand as machine!
 
farecla is a good compound which i think is also sold on ebay and Autoglym super resin is a very good polish. if its a smallish boat then both these items will do the job without great expense but if you have a very large hull like 25mtrs plus then you could find a local company that sells car valet supplies as i can buy compound in 5ltrs for around 15 pounds.
 
I have this model and it gives good results but as gjgm says it is rather heavy (you could probably get a lightweight one for more dosh) and the sponges do get damanged on studs etc. Here is good place to get new sponges sponges
 
You can also buy sponges from Screwfix, though only the firmer ones which are harder wearing. They last better when doing large areas than the others though.
Farecla G3 and other compounds in their range, such as G10 which is much finer for that final high shine, are available from most reasonable motor factors and auto body shops, e.g. Jawel paints et al.
I did a bit of a trial on different areas of our boat last season to compare Mer, Auto Glym and the Teflon polish. So far they are all looking good, in fact about the same, so it may come down to price.
 
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