GRP Filler, Cleaner and Paint advice

seanfoster

seanfoster

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My hull has a few dings and scratches and I want to fill it before painting.
I've seen a few products on the market, I was thinking of using International watertite, can anyone recommend it, or anything else?

I'm thinking of painting with a two pack paint, I know perfection is probably the market leader, but I can't believe how much it costs, obviously you get what you pay for, does anyone know of any alternatives, or good sources to buy paint from?

And Finally I need to clean the decks, quite a few stains etc, anyone know of a 'wonder' product avaialble? I've heard of Y10, I've also heard that you can buy the active ingriedient of this (I think its Oxy acid or something like that) can anyone enlighten me, where can I get it, how do i use it?
 
Oxalic acid is what you mean, you should be able to get or order in crystal form from any industrial cleaner suppliers.
Dilute it in warm water, aprox 1/2kg in 2 ltr water will give a good strong solution, apply with paint brush or sponge, leave for 5-10 min then rinse off with hose, but be warned, wear rubber gloves and goggles as it is harmfull and will burn hands.
Oxalic is more suited to removing brownish staining in the gel coat and rust staining etc.
An epoxy filler paste would be the best bet for any gel cout repairs below the waterline especially if you are painting over it, otherwise use a polyester filler paste, (cataloy) and gel coat over it if not painting the area.
 
The best paint in the world is awlgrip. available from Marineware. But if you think that perfection is expensive, then you will get a shock with awlgrip. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Imperfections can be filled with resin and micro-balloons, if near or below the water line make sure the balloons are marked 'Closed Cell' this will ensure they will resist water ingress.

Balloons, spheres and 'Q' Cells are all very easy to sand with a 250 grit to start then a 500.

I helps if a small amount of resin is applied before the balloons, even better if it has started to tack or go off; Use a hack saw blade or plastic ruler to follow the curve of the area and reduce sanding.

When cured (24 or more hours later) wash with a running hose and scotch brite pad to remove the residue left by the curing process BEFORE you sand, or you will only spread the contamination.

You only need to remove the high gloss, then add some epoxy primer, I like the high build version as fills minor blemishes.

Hope this helps.

Avagoodweekend......
 
5litres of Imron industrial 2 pack(and accelerator additive,mebbe),but you will have to bring it back from the States next time you are on holiday over there-not as daft as it sounds,Color wheel paints have 3 branches within taxi distance of Mickeymouse in Orlando

Here
 
The cost is even more when you add all the other layers of preporation.
If you dont use their high builds primers, 545 (undercoat),
Thinners, catalysts, and follow the manual, they will not issue any waranty.
But it is very shiny!!
 
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