Grit value of T cut

pcatterall

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Just hauled out after 2 years in the water the last year being in fresh but dirty canal water.
The bottom was fine after a pressure wash, just some bits to re-prime and the antifoul.
The lower sides are now very yellowed ( this is a 1974 boat). I had tried the usual T cut oxalic acid etc to no real avail. I had a rub with some 1000 grit wet and dry and that brought it all up nice and white again.
I could do the whole hull by hand in a couple of days so well worth it.
I could not really see and scratches in the gell coat from the 1000 grit paper but would the panel recommend I follow up the 1000 grit with say 1500 then 2000 or could I just use T cut?
Has T cut an approximate 'value' on the grit scale?
I would follow up the abrasive cleaning with several applications of good wax.
Although I say I could do it by hand would you recommend I invest in a polisher and if so advise on a good inexpensive model?
many thanks
 
I think T-Cut is a fine abrasive good for fine scratches and mildly dull paint. You could try G3 which is a heavier grade and usually applied with an electric polisher specific for the job, as it will spin slower with more control. Best to spray water to the hull as you use the polisher, otherwise the paint / gel coat can burn.
 
IMO, T Cut is about as much use as tits on a fish.

I have just compounded and polished a badly oxidised yacht which had been sitting in the Algarve sunshine for 10 years.

I used 3M polishing compound with a lambswool head initially. On the white gelcoat it was fine; on the blue it made about an 80% improvement. 3M has the advantage of being to apply 'dry' and is a polish as well as a compounding formulation.

However, for the blue I moved on to Farecla G3 using a sponge compounding head.

Used a cheapo Silverline polishing machine (Amazon - £38.00) it was perfect.

Work in small areas, dab the G3 on the hull with a damp cloth, dunk the sponge compounding head into a bucket of water, spin off the excess water and then apply at slow revs. Don't use too much pressure, you will get the knack of when to stop - usually as the cream begins to dry. Rub off any deposits then polish.
 
"IMO, T Cut is about as much use as tits on a fish"
Thanks all, thanks chinita I will check out the polisher. I question your dismissive comment, though , about T cut, I have used it over the years and it has been very useful, but only, of course, for certain applications.
 
Wearing rubber gloves, I use a combination of Cif and Patio Cleaner on the river stained hull of our boat. I apply it with a sponge, leave for about 10 minutes, and then wash off with fresh water. (Hydrochloric acid is the ingredient in some GRP cleaners).

Not wishing to waste money on boaty products, I polish with Turtle Wax Original.
 
"IMO, T Cut is about as much use as tits on a fish"
Thanks all, thanks chinita I will check out the polisher. I question your dismissive comment, though , about T cut, I have used it over the years and it has been very useful, but only, of course, for certain applications.

Fine. Carry on.
 
I suggest reading the Farecla website.
2000 grit w+d is also more widely available now and I've found it a worthwhile stage in repairs I've done.
Also, a more aggressive metal polish like solvol autosol can be useful sometimes.
 
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