Grey Import

[russ]

I've been pretty much dismayed with the boat broker industry.
Of three boats I've been interested in. I had a costly survey report on the first which reported a blistered hull. The second i found out was a salvage boat with a faulty engine which the broker did not disclose and the third was on with two brokers both telling the vendor he had various buyers lined up that never seemed to materialise thus wasting two of my weekend arrangements to view the boat.
Anyway after getting that off my chest.
Is it possible to convert an American grey imported boat to have 240v power sockets instead of a 110v with a transformer dumped in the engine bay?
Only I have seen another boat in my price bracket that is a much later model than the previous boats. Or should I keep well away from grey imports?

 

[carlton]

...Is it possible to convert an American grey imported boat to have 240v power sockets instead of a 110v with a transformer dumped in the engine bay?
Only I have seen another boat in my price bracket that is a much later model than the previous boats. Or should I keep well away from grey imports?

Yes - but you may need to replace all the cabling, together with all the sockets and appliances (microwave/battery charger/etc.). What's your objection to using a transformer anyway?

The only warning I've heard on 'grey' imports (assuming you're referring to U.S. listed boats) is that a number of them were allegedly hurricane-damaged and subsequently repaired.

 

[Tranona]

Installing a complete 240v system is not a big issue.

However, you need to be sure that it has been properly imported, has a CE mark (that is complies with the RCD) and all duties and VAT have been paid.

If the boat is significantly cheaper than others it may indicate that some of this is missing!

 

[Elessar]

Yes - but you may need to replace all the cabling, together with all the sockets and appliances (microwave/battery charger/etc.). What's your objection to using a transformer anyway?

The only warning I've heard on 'grey' imports (assuming you're referring to U.S. listed boats) is that a number of them were allegedly hurricane-damaged and subsequently repaired.

Sockets and appliances yes but not the cabling even for a complete job.
Best solution though as you say is a tranformer for the appliances. Then change the sockets and feed that circuit pre transformer. Add an RCD. Some neat labels on the switchpanel. Job done. Total parts costs about £200-250

 

[Nautibusiness]

You can of course change a boat to 240 or convert the 110 to 240.

But, be careful.
You've had your fingers burned a few times dealing in this country. What makes you think that dealing with people 3000 miles away will be any easier? In addition the exchange rate is against you at the moment.

Find a broker you can trust and work with them. They can't help when it comes to hull blistering, that is where your (not the brokers, yours) surveyor will come in.
A good broker is, however, obliged to disclose any faults he knows of. If he clearly doesn't then run a mile from him and his boats.

Tom
(Hopefully and always strives to be, a good broker)

 

[russ]

You can of course change a boat to 240 or convert the 110 to 240.

But, be careful.
You've had your fingers burned a few times dealing in this country. What makes you think that dealing with people 3000 miles away will be any easier? In addition the exchange rate is against you at the moment.

Find a broker you can trust and work with them. They can't help when it comes to hull blistering, that is where your (not the brokers, yours) surveyor will come in.
A good broker is, however, obliged to disclose any faults he knows of. If he clearly doesn't then run a mile from him and his boats.

Tom
(Hopefully and always strives to be, a good broker)

The boat is a UK brokerage boat with a 3 month warranty and is being sold as a UK used boat but was a grey import from the States for the vendor.

I understand that most items are 12v or will work from the transformer via shore power but if i wish to plug in a UK toaster I will need a 240v socket.

 

[Nautibusiness]

The boat is a UK brokerage boat with a 3 month warranty and is being sold as a UK used boat but was a grey import from the States for the vendor.

I understand that most items are 12v or will work from the transformer via shore power but if i wish to plug in a UK toaster I will need a 240v socket.

OK, first point is I AM NOT AN ELECTRICIAN, so really don't understand what has gone on, but we've just sold a virtually A1 Sea Ray Sundancer 240 to a local chap.

The boat was a grey import some 6 years ago, but the vendor did everything correctly and made sure it was CE proofed, kept the import docs and US title docs showing VAT, duty and obviously chain of title.

The boat is totally original inside with all the US sockets and 110V mains running through it.
I only discovered the 110V bit several days into the sales process and thought, "bu@@er, I've dropped a clanger here", until the vendor pointed out the 240V shore power socket and transformer widget thingy which converts it happily from 240V to the 110V the boats mains operate on.
The new owner can, with a bit of hunting (or ebaying from the US) use all the usual mod cons like kettle, TV etc and either use adapters on the sockets if the appliance is dual voltage or plug straight in if sourced from the states.

Yes, I would prefer a 240V main, but it isn't on here and to be honest probably not worth fitting on a boat of this age and value, but the owner is very happy and has a complete understanding of the system.

I am sure that a simialr system could be set up for the boat you are thinking of buying?
Just make sure you get it CE marked. Actually, make sure the vendor does as if it is already in the UK it is their legal responsibility to do so before they sell it (unless it arrived in the UK / EU earlier than June 16th '98 in which case it doesn't need to conform).

 

[gjgm]

the CE plate and docs is pretty key, here. OK, I m sure some people do run some smaller sportsboats without totally meeting the law, but for your own resale value, there needs to be a small silver CE plate (often by the throttle on smaller boats), and the paperwork to support.
You can of course have a boat inspected and pay to have it altered to meet EU law;some have done it from the forum, and on a smaller boat, from memory, its £1500-3000, as a guide. Its not just the work that need a to actually be done, its all the inspection that shows what doesnt need to be done too !

 

[Jim@sea]

A friend of mine imports these "Big Rig Motor Homes" from the US. They are also 110V. He doesn't have a problem with the electrics. On some he converts, on some he uses a transformer. If you really need to change the electrics to UK spec, why dont you find a car "auto-electrician" that has converted the US Motor Homes. It would be cheaper than getting a boatyard to do it, and you may end up using the same person the boatyard would use.

 

[russ]

I think I will leave it as 110v, if I buy it, and see how I get on.
I have imported may American cars and trucks and I'm quite used to importing parts that I need.
Do grey import boats have a stigma against them and therefore are a cheaper boat to buy and then to sell on? The only difference i can see is the 110v power but other than that they are the same boat as a UK spec boat.
The boat I have seen does have CE mark and paperwork but I was told it doesn't need a river safety certificate because the CE is less than 4 years old. But does that mean will still be able pass one when needed?

 

[Mymobo]

Hi

my boat is a us import. Which is great as the hull is in very good condition. We have the 110 system conected to a yellow transformEr. This works well and we are happy with it. All systems work fine.

 

[GrahamHR]

A 110 V (AC) system requires thicker cables than a 240 V system handling the same wattage, as the current is basically double. So, there should be no problem with the cabling, it should already be "over specified" for 220/ 240 V. Appliances, yes, they need to be appropriate for the voltage.

Graham

 

[spinreach]

The boat I have seen does have CE mark and paperwork but I was told it doesn't need a river safety certificate because the CE is less than 4 years old. But does that mean will still be able pass one when needed?

Not sure aout the 4 year rule applying to the CE mark? I thought the 4 year rule applied to new boats, which will have ce mark as a matter of course. When the safety scheme (BSS) was introduced I think there were a coupel of cases of new boats with ce marks, not passing the BSS. This contradiction in saftey legislation caused consternation and hence teh 4 year rule.

However, if anyone feels the 4 year rule can apply to the ce cert itself then that would be good news for me as I can eek another year out of my current BSS as my US boat obtained its CE mark after its BSS.

Re the 110v, I kept the 110v with transformer and works well with mixture of US and UK appliances. Amazing how many UK appliances run on the 110v - 240v. Only problem is with the fridge which is mains and 12v. It doesn't run as cold on the mains - maybe to do with different cycle rating?

Re the BSS, boat passed ok with minor changes required but very much dependant upon examiner and their interpretation of rules.

 

[Heckler]

The boat is a UK brokerage boat with a 3 month warranty and is being sold as a UK used boat but was a grey import from the States for the vendor.

I understand that most items are 12v or will work from the transformer via shore power but if i wish to plug in a UK toaster I will need a 240v socket.

Just go to ebay and buy a couple of convertors that you use when you go to the states, that solves the prob of plug to socket, the wiring for 110v is always thicker than 240v, (less volts means more amps) so is not an issue.
Stu