Grey Faux Teak Deck

mobeydick

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I have been looking at (another) yacht with warn teak decks (not screwed down). I think replacing the teak with teak would be too expensive, and non-slip paint would not look right. I do not normally like the look of immitation teak decks, but I see some manufacturers are now doing immitation 'grey' (weathered) teak with black calking.

Has anybody seen this in real life, and has an opion as to its look?

This would be for a white GRP 40ft sailing yacht, side decks and cabin roof.

Thanks

MD
 
Get a quote first. You might find, particularly if you go for the higher quality material the price may well approach the cost of pre made glue down teak panels.

Unless the boat relies on teak decks to maintain value, perhaps better to strip and refinish in epoxy and non slip.
 
Every year I put in quite a lot of effort and a fair amount of money in cleaners and Semco to keep my real teak a nice golden brown!
 
Get a quote first. You might find, particularly if you go for the higher quality material the price may well approach the cost of pre made glue down teak panels.

Unless the boat relies on teak decks to maintain value, perhaps better to strip and refinish in epoxy and non slip.

Is that so?
Ok thanks.

MD
 
I've got the weathered artificial teak on my side decks and real teak on the seats in my cockpit so can easily compare.

Several people haven't noticed that they are different materials so the fake is a very good imitation. And whereas the real teak needs care when cleaning, I can pressure wash or scrub the fake so much less effort. Other than occasional cleaning the fake stuff is maintenance free and should see me out. If I ever have to replace the teak in the cockpit, I would certainly use the artificial stuff.

I've got Permateek and it was fitted by a guy called Mike Jordan who did a 1st class job.
 
I've got the weathered artificial teak on my side decks and real teak on the seats in my cockpit so can easily compare.

Several people haven't noticed that they are different materials so the fake is a very good imitation. And whereas the real teak needs care when cleaning, I can pressure wash or scrub the fake so much less effort. Other than occasional cleaning the fake stuff is maintenance free and should see me out. If I ever have to replace the teak in the cockpit, I would certainly use the artificial stuff.

I've got Permateek and it was fitted by a guy called Mike Jordan who did a 1st class job.

Thanks

MD
 
I've got the weathered artificial teak on my side decks and real teak on the seats in my cockpit so can easily compare.

Several people haven't noticed that they are different materials so the fake is a very good imitation. And whereas the real teak needs care when cleaning, I can pressure wash or scrub the fake so much less effort. Other than occasional cleaning the fake stuff is maintenance free and should see me out. If I ever have to replace the teak in the cockpit, I would certainly use the artificial stuff.

I've got Permateek and it was fitted by a guy called Mike Jordan who did a 1st class job.

I've got the weathered artificial teak on my side decks and real teak on the seats in my cockpit so can easily compare.

Several people haven't noticed that they are different materials so the fake is a very good imitation. And whereas the real teak needs care when cleaning, I can pressure wash or scrub the fake so much less effort. Other than occasional cleaning the fake stuff is maintenance free and should see me out. If I ever have to replace the teak in the cockpit, I would certainly use the artificial stuff.

I've got Permateek and it was fitted by a guy called Mike Jordan who did a 1st class job.

I must do something to my teak decks too soon..
Was it cold welded (glued) then caulked with standard caulking or hot welded.?
Do you have a motorboat or sailing boat.?
How long have you had the stuff on and is there any places it seems to be coming up..??
Thanks for the info
Warren
 
I've got a 30' sailing boat.

Mike made templates of the decks, then created the panels off-site. I'm not sure what technology he used to assemble the panels. He then glued the panels to the decks. I've had them for about 18 months now and no signs of any lifting or bubbling.

Jonathan
 
I've got a 30' sailing boat.

Mike made templates of the decks, then created the panels off-site. I'm not sure what technology he used to assemble the panels. He then glued the panels to the decks. I've had them for about 18 months now and no signs of any lifting or bubbling.

Jonathan

Cheers Jonathan... Sounds good, I'm very tempted with that kind of deck too. I've been at a crossroads for a while now and still don't know which way to go, hence gathering all the info I can....
 
I've got the weathered artificial teak on my side decks and real teak on the seats in my cockpit so can easily compare.

Any chance of some photos? By PM/Email if you prefer. Would be nice if there were some close ups included to see the 'grain' comparison..

Thanks

MD
 
Hi, we had a Flexiteek "weathered" look deck fitted to our boat a few years ago, by Advanced Marine Decking and Centreline Marine. No problems with it, very happy with the result and the only two give aways are it doesn't darken when wet and we forgot to ask for plank joins to be put in, so it looks like full length planking and so is less realistic. Sub deck stabilised with epoxy injected into the planks, and then multiple coats of Eposeal 300 applied. Deck was glued on using Saba. All seams hot welded, and rigid plastic placed under every through bolted deck fitting (winch bases, cleats, tracks etc). Most of the work was in the sub deck preparation and the removal and refitting of the deck fittings. More info and pictures here http://marelle-classicyacht.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/decked-out.html
 
Hi, we had a Flexiteek "weathered" look deck fitted to our boat a few years ago, by Advanced Marine Decking and Centreline Marine. No problems with it, very happy with the result and the only two give aways are it doesn't darken when wet and we forgot to ask for plank joins to be put in, so it looks like full length planking and so is less realistic. Sub deck stabilised with epoxy injected into the planks, and then multiple coats of Eposeal 300 applied. Deck was glued on using Saba. All seams hot welded, and rigid plastic placed under every through bolted deck fitting (winch bases, cleats, tracks etc). Most of the work was in the sub deck preparation and the removal and refitting of the deck fittings. More info and pictures here http://marelle-classicyacht.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/decked-out.html

You were right not to ask for plank joins, the continuous runs look elegant - superb! Plank joins would have been an at at realism that might have looked a bit naff.
 
You were right not to ask for plank joins, the continuous runs look elegant - superb! Plank joins would have been an at at realism that might have looked a bit naff.

On the contrary, I think that fake teak decks look better with plank joins, margin boards and king planks replicated. Everyone knows it's not teak, but there's no reason why it shouldn't look fairly authentic.
 
On the contrary, I think that fake teak decks look better with plank joins, margin boards and king planks replicated. Everyone knows it's not teak, but there's no reason why it shouldn't look fairly authentic.

On the contrary I think that it looks more elegant without the joins, it would be like Cornish Shrimpers having fake fastenings and screws moulded into the GRP.
 
So you'd probably ban all GRP clinker-lookalikes? And probably GRP Grand Banks with "planked" hulls?

Don't be silly. I said I liked the fake teak but preferred it in continuous planks because it looked more elegant and wasn't pretending to be real wood. I like shrimpers etc, they look good but don't pretend to be anything other than GRP, if they'd moulded fake fastenings in that would be very perculiar.

Have I offended you in some way? Do you have fake teak with plank endings and so on? I'm sure it looks great, just not my preferred look, that doesn't mean I want to "ban" GRP clinker boats ;)
 
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