Greasing Trailer Brake cables?

[TSB240]

I am in the process of servicing our trailer before taking it to Brittany later this year.

I have started by removing the 4 Bowden cables which are most problematic if you dunk your trailer regularly.

I found 2 of them were quite stiff (nearly seized but were eased off with WD 40 and with diesel soaking through them overnight.

There was minimal grease in the cup at the wheel end which was dissolved by the WD 40. There was none at the equaliser end .

I was wondering has anybody drilled and fitted grease nipples to the side of the cups?

I could then block off the cup and hope to pressure fill the entire cable with a waterproof grease back up to the equaliser end rather than just filling the cup with grease.

Wheel bearings had no sign of water ingress and I am used to just cleaning and repacking them after any dunking anyhow.

 

[Avocet]

I think I've seen cables with grease nipples half way along them in the past. I know that's not an option for you, but at least such things do exist. However, I've also been told that there are some sorts of cable that shouldn't be greased because the plastic liner that they run in can be attacked by certain types of grease. Not sure whether yours would be susceptible or not. I've also heard that sometimes it's counter-productive because the grease just holds bits of dirt and grit so the cable line is actually worn away faster than with no lubrication. All I can suggest (if you know who it is!) is to ask the cable supplier.

 

[theoldsalt]

WD40 is merely a water repellent. It is not a penetrating oil or a lubricant.

 

[Niander]

Myth: WD-40 Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant.
Fact:
While the “W-D” in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, WD-40 Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal........

ripped from the web but I believe it to be true...

 

[winsbury]

wd40 is also damn good for getting chewing gum out of clothes

 

[lw395]

To get back on topic, when I had motorbike with cable brakes, I found synthetic gearbox oil to be the best lubricant.
If you can take the cables off and let gravity feed the oil down through them that is ideal.
Otherwise keep putting it on one end and wiggle it to and fro.
An oil with lots of solvent in (e.g WD40) will get there quicker but be less effective in the long run.
But if the cable has rusted, you need to move a lot of oil through it to get the rust and crud out.
I've never actually known a nylon lined cable seize due to oiling, I think it may an urban myth?

Some pushbikes have PTFE lines and stainless cables...?

 

[William_H]

Yes with a boat trailer you can never have too much oil and grease. It is the best known combat to rust. Yes I would think a grease nipple on one end of the cable outer might do some good. It might be easier however to remove the inner cable if you can and run oil down the inside of the outer. For the other components. Park the trailer over some waste land. Then use a paint brush and bucket of old engine oil. Splash it every where. olewill

 

[davidpbo]

I would have thought you probably need to consider replacing the cables.
If they were stiff it maybe that the lining has started to disintegrate, depends on how old the cable are of course.

When I fitted new cables to my trailer I ran oil through them.

 

[Spi D]

Agreed on the replacement suggestion.

As universal grease/lube is not (!) waterproof, only use marine grease.

If at all possible do not submerge trailer brakes or hubs. Although sealed, bearings get warm when driving and if then put into cold(ish) water will create a vacuum and potentially suck sea water in.
If you must submerge it, you should fit a brake flush kit to rinse with tap water once out of the sea water. This will not save your wires, though.

 

[Avocet]

To get back on topic, when I had motorbike with cable brakes, I found synthetic gearbox oil to be the best lubricant.
If you can take the cables off and let gravity feed the oil down through them that is ideal.
Otherwise keep putting it on one end and wiggle it to and fro.
An oil with lots of solvent in (e.g WD40) will get there quicker but be less effective in the long run.
But if the cable has rusted, you need to move a lot of oil through it to get the rust and crud out.
I've never actually known a nylon lined cable seize due to oiling, I think it may an urban myth?

Some pushbikes have PTFE lines and stainless cables...?

Perhaps. I wouldn't have taken that much notice of the advice, but it came from a cable manufacturer! (Though admittedly, it wasn't to do with brake cables at the time, it was much lighter ones more like those on a pushbike). I know there is a bewildering number of combinations of cable coating, and liner material though. PTFE-lined cables don't suffer from attack, but the PTFE picks up bits of crud and wears itself away, but you can get nylon, Delrin, and goodness knows what else in there and I can't believe at least SOME of them won't be attacked.

 

[gjgm]

I am in the process of servicing our trailer before taking it to Brittany later this year.

I have started by removing the 4 Bowden cables which are most problematic if you dunk your trailer regularly.

I found 2 of them were quite stiff (nearly seized but were eased off with WD 40 and with diesel soaking through them overnight.

There was minimal grease in the cup at the wheel end which was dissolved by the WD 40. There was none at the equaliser end .

I was wondering has anybody drilled and fitted grease nipples to the side of the cups?

I could then block off the cup and hope to pressure fill the entire cable with a waterproof grease back up to the equaliser end rather than just filling the cup with grease.

Wheel bearings had no sign of water ingress and I am used to just cleaning and repacking them after any dunking anyhow.

If you are going to do a long tow, I would just change the cables. The risk of getting stuck in some French country road with burnt out bearings isnt worth the cost saving..