Greasing new ball valves

[prv]

My order from ASAP has finally made it through the snow (well, 1/3rd of it has anyway) and I've spent half the afternoon fiddling with my ball valves.

The big 1-1/2" ones for cockpit drains are very stiff. I don't think they're faulty, just new and tight, but they do take a fair heave to open or close them. I think perhaps some lubrication might help. I have available both WD40 and also SG85 spray-on grease which I've recently discovered (as seen here). I'd be more inclined to use the grease although not sure if it will penetrate like WD40 would.

Are either of these products likely to eat the (PTFE?) seals in the ball valves, or cause other undesirable effects?

Cheers,

Pete

 

[30boat]

Ball valves don't require greasing that's why they have Teflon seals.WD-40 is not suitable anyway because it is a solvent without lubricating properties.

 

[Poignard]

Ball valves don't require greasing that's why they have Teflon seals.WD-40 is not suitable anyway because it is a solvent without lubricating properties.

WD40 is a light oil suspended in solvents so that it can be used in an aerosol. It is a Water Displacer and when the solvent evaporates a thin film of oil is left on the surface.

But I agree it should not be used on ball valves (in case it harms the plastic. )

 

[Malish]

If anything I would use a silicone-based spray not a mineral oil based one. Have you tried wetting the ball valves (with water) to see if that eases them?

 

[prv]

Ball valves don't require greasing that's why they have Teflon seals.

These ball valves require some kind of lubrication or other easing, otherwise there's at least one person who sails with me who might struggle to operate them.

Pete

 

[prv]

Have you tried wetting the ball valves (with water) to see if that eases them?

I have; didn't make any noticeable difference. I don't think the water even got into the space between the seal and ball (as indeed one would hope).

Pete

 

[Tranona]

These ball valves require some kind of lubrication or other easing, otherwise there's at least one person who sails with me who might struggle to operate them.

Pete

There really is no need to lubricate - they are self lubricating. I have just removed one from my boat after 17 years and it is still working perfectly.

The big ones are difficult because there is a large contact area, but no "lubrtication" will make it any different. Operate it regularly and it will be OK. Leaving it permanently open will result in a build u[p of crud which will make it difficult to operate.

 

[DannyB]

Sorry Tranona, but isn't when they are closed you can get a build up. If the ball valve is open, there is nothing to get a build up on, whereas when it is closed the surface of the ball is exposed and you can get fouling on the ball surface, which makes it difficult to operate and could cause premature wear on the seals.

 

[Boathook]

Sorry Tranona, but isn't when they are closed you can get a build up. If the ball valve is open, there is nothing to get a build up on, whereas when it is closed the surface of the ball is exposed and you can get fouling on the ball surface, which makes it difficult to operate and could cause premature wear on the seals.

I have never heard or seen seals damaged on ball valves. Like most valves, if not operated regulary they will sieze up and not be able to do the job required.

 

[kieronriley]

try "mild green fairy liquid"

 

[Tranona]

Sorry Tranona, but isn't when they are closed you can get a build up. If the ball valve is open, there is nothing to get a build up on, whereas when it is closed the surface of the ball is exposed and you can get fouling on the ball surface, which makes it difficult to operate and could cause premature wear on the seals.

Sorry DannyB but it can happen with valves left open. I know because I have just replaced a toilet outlet left open and a ring of crud around the hole!

The answer as others have said is to operate them regularly.

 

[Sans Bateau]

If a ball valve is working properly there will be a very tight fit between the ball and the seal ( the teflon cage it runs in). If this were not the case then they would leak. Ant material (lubricant) applied to the ball or cage will be wiped off with the action of opening and closing. Think about it, if the valve will stop water, why should it let lubricant pass?

 

[vyv_cox]

PTFE and other plastic lubricants work by depositing a film of themselves onto the steel counterface. This is called the transfer layer. The friction coefficient between the transfer layer and the parent material is low but can be high between the parent material and the metal before the transfer layer has been established, or if it is removed. One way of preventing formation of the transfer layer is by lubricating the metal. So the ideal way to ease the valve is to work it a few times without any lubricant, when it should become relatively easy to operate.

 

[NorthUp]

prv- have you actually installed the ball valves yet?
When held securely in hull fitting or a vice, the apparent effort to turn the lever is much less.

 

[prv]

prv- have you actually installed the ball valves yet?
When held securely in hull fitting or a vice, the apparent effort to turn the lever is much less.

Not yet - despite many phone calls and the help of ASAP, the skin fittings are still stuck somewhere inside CityLink :-(

I'll have a go with the valve in the vice, just to see if it seems easier. I've been working one of them back and forth while watching telly; doesn't seem to have made much difference.

I did also try lubricating one with some silicone lubricant liquid used for push-fit waste pipes; as Galadriel says, I don't think any lubricant actually went into the mating part.

Pete