Gooseneck fitting replacement

CAPTAIN FANTASTIC

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Gooseneck 20200703_115802.jpg

The gooseneck fitting has developed a lot of play and its time to replace it. It is a Proctor mast/boom system on a Moody which had a boom rolling reefing before it was converted to slab reefing. Any suggestions for a replacement?
 
I refurbished mine over the winter. I measured all the holes and found that they were about 13.0 to 13.5mm for the 12.0mm pins. So I reamed them all out to 14.0mm and bought some plastic sleeve bearings from these people to take up the difference.
 
I refurbished mine over the winter. I measured all the holes and found that they were about 13.0 to 13.5mm for the 12.0mm pins. So I reamed them all out to 14.0mm and bought some plastic sleeve bearings from these people to take up the difference.
It'll benefit from the sleeves, otherwise it's the usual "steel pins and aluminium casting" problem. Some of the slack is probably corrosion rather than wear.
 
Gooseneck arrow20200703_194111.jpg

The wear and tear is not in the hole where the pin goes, the wear is mainly where the arrow is on the picture. The aluminium alloy casting has worn down at the point where the fitting that connects the boom to the gooseneck, rests.
 
That does not look too far gone to be bushed and washer'd back to how it should be.
Might be too much pressure for plastic washers though?
 
The wear and tear is not in the hole where the pin goes, the wear is mainly where the arrow is on the picture. The aluminium alloy casting has worn down at the point where the fitting that connects the boom to the gooseneck, rests.

It's still a problem which could be very easily sorted by an engineering workshop.
 
Can you turn it upside down so that the upper surface becomes the new lower?

If engineering shops aren't handy , and you want a replacement, then the boat breaker people in Gosport might be worth a try, or the Chandlery barge on the Hamble??
 
The wear to the inner faces of the casting is because the holes are worn. Ream them all out and fit bushes and the problem is solved except that the slot in the casting is now tapered instead of parallel sided. Careful work with a file, followed by fitting suitable washers to take up sideways play and all will be well. Replace the stainless pins if they are worn. When I repaired my gooseneck I made bronze bushes and there has been no further wear.
 
My gooseneck is an old Kemp/Selden one, so not the same design. The pin sizes are around 10 mm. Over many years the bearing surfaces had worn away and the gooseneck rattled. I bored out the casting and bushed the bearings with domestic plastic water pipe, the 15 mm type used as a replacement for copper. I think the material is MDPE. I needed to slit the pipe to get it to fit. I had already bought a new gooseneck but tried this method as a temporary repair. That was around five years ago and it remains exactly the same.
 
My gooseneck is an old Kemp/Selden one, so not the same design. The pin sizes are around 10 mm. Over many years the bearing surfaces had worn away and the gooseneck rattled. I bored out the casting and bushed the bearings with domestic plastic water pipe, the 15 mm type used as a replacement for copper. I think the material is MDPE. I needed to slit the pipe to get it to fit. I had already bought a new gooseneck but tried this method as a temporary repair. That was around five years ago and it remains exactly the same.
That's great news, and sounds like a solution.
 
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