Good Value Boat heaters

I'm not sure fitting a switch is a good idea. I'm guessing these heaters are no different to the Ebers, in that when you turn it off at the control unit, the heater goes through a pre determined cool down cycle which is necessary to prevent the unit overheating.

If your switch is inadvertently turned off whilst the heater is running then it won't get the chance to cool down and you'll cook it.

I'm sure the Eber installation manual says to connect the power supply cables directly to the battery. Also, make sure you use a good size cable, as under size cables will reduce the voltage at the unit which is one of the most common heater faults as they are quite voltage sensitive.

Andy
 
Andy Cox said:
I'm not sure fitting a switch is a good idea. I'm guessing these heaters are no different to the Ebers, in that when you turn it off at the control unit, the heater goes through a pre determined cool down cycle which is necessary to prevent the unit overheating.

If your switch is inadvertently turned off whilst the heater is running then it won't get the chance to cool down and you'll cook it.

I'm sure the Eber installation manual says to connect the power supply cables directly to the battery. Also, make sure you use a good size cable, as under size cables will reduce the voltage at the unit which is one of the most common heater faults as they are quite voltage sensitive.

Andy
Click to expand...

All the cables and plugs came with the unit and they are fine size wise. This is not intended to be used as a heater switch off switch it is an isolation switch for when you leave the boat.

When I leave my boat every last thing that is electrical is switched off..... That applies to all of the boats I have...….. And yes for those that will comment that includes the bilge pump.


Once I get the switches I will judge them by their actual quality not by the price paid for them


Dennis
 
FARSCO said:
Can you not wire it to your main isolators?
Click to expand...

Yes but they are a long way away and this will actually be very close to the Battery. A separate switch with LED and 20amp in line fuse is I think the way to go for my layout. Agreed it must not be switched off during its cool down cycle but I think that is quite unlikely to happen.
 
It works - Cabin from an outside temperature of 8oC to 22oC in ~ 30 minutes. Then purred down to idle for the next two hours holding the temperature within 1oC of the setpoint. I think it would easily have achieved 26oC.

Hardly noticeable volume of kerosene taken from the tank.

It take it ~8 start attempts to get the air purged, with an E-10 alarm every second attempt. This cleared each time.

Now got to put the boat back together, and tidy up a few things, screw down the base frame, etc.

I have also ordered a Red Taraffolyte Label to affix to the gunwale above the exhaust "HEATER EXHAUST NO FENDER".
 
superheat6k said:
It works - Cabin from an outside temperature of 8oC to 22oC in ~ 30 minutes. Then purred down to idle for the next two hours holding the temperature within 1oC of the setpoint. I think it would easily have achieved 26oC.

Hardly noticeable volume of kerosene taken from the tank.

It take it ~8 start attempts to get the air purged, with an E-10 alarm every second attempt. This cleared each time.

Now got to put the boat back together, and tidy up a few things, screw down the base frame, etc.

I have also ordered a Red Taraffolyte Label to affix to the gunwale above the exhaust "HEATER EXHAUST NO FENDER".
Click to expand...

Well done... I have completed my testing and all went well.. Now just got to find some time and fit it

Dennis
 
On my boat, there isn’t a separate switch for the heater.
It’s wired to the domestic bank via a breaker, and only really goes “off” if you turn off the main domestic battery isolator.
 
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Blatantly copied Trev of this parish's design for the stand for my heater. Use slightly thinner timber so strengthened corners with brackets (ready for shock loading?). Not sure what to use to fix to cockpit floor as I would prefer not to screw into the decking. Sikaflex or similar may do the trick - any advice please? I could use SS self tappers + sikaflex as well, in fact that is probably the right way to do it after all.

Will be boarding up the void, leaving floor level hole in case cockpit floods and needs both deck drains. Now all I have to do is cut hole in transom, fit power supply, tank etc. etc......


IMG_20190120_171426.jpgIMG_20190120_125253.jpgIMG_20190120_165352.jpgIMG_20190120_171426.jpg
 
My Planar started first time without fuss this morning.
Decks had couple of mm of frost.
External temp 1C.
Internal 5C.
Took about 30 mins to get internal temp in saloon up to 18C.Boat has 4 outlets including windscreen.
 
Hot Property said:
Blatantly copied Trev of this parish's design for the stand for my heater. Use slightly thinner timber so strengthened corners with brackets (ready for shock loading?). Not sure what to use to fix to cockpit floor as I would prefer not to screw into the decking. Sikaflex or similar may do the trick - any advice please? I could use SS self tappers + sikaflex as well, in fact that is probably the right way to do it after all.

Will be boarding up the void, leaving floor level hole in case cockpit floods and needs both deck drains. Now all I have to do is cut hole in transom, fit power supply, tank etc. etc......


View attachment 75384View attachment 75385View attachment 75386View attachment 75384
Click to expand...

I would use CT1 in stead od Sickaflex……. It is the dogs swingers
 
Well after several weeks of testing the heater and it never failing once. I went to the boat today (a sealine S24) with an Architect friend of mine to look for the best places to install it. I am sorry to have to report that getting a 75 mm duct into the living space of an S24 from the rear of the boat is almost if not impossible. There is a route sort of down the port side below the lockers. The issue is there is a wooden bulkhead about half way and getting at it to drill is impossible especially as you cant see from both sides. I know of another S24 with one installed and we studied this but I can only imagine that it was done at build stage as retro fitting the duct is terrible.


I am rather disappointed to say the least. I can easily fit it to blow hot air into the upper tent cabin under the seat and this might be worth doing on a cold morning.


Dennis
 
Something is better than nothing Dennis, but on the bright side if it doesn't work out the post has been inspiring and fun to read :cool:

Bigplumbs said:
Well after several weeks of testing the heater and it never failing once. I went to the boat today (a sealine S24) with an Architect friend of mine to look for the best places to install it. I am sorry to have to report that getting a 75 mm duct into the living space of an S24 from the rear of the boat is almost if not impossible. There is a route sort of down the port side below the lockers. The issue is there is a wooden bulkhead about half way and getting at it to drill is impossible especially as you cant see from both sides. I know of another S24 with one installed and we studied this but I can only imagine that it was done at build stage as retro fitting the duct is terrible.


I am rather disappointed to say the least. I can easily fit it to blow hot air into the upper tent cabin under the seat and this might be worth doing on a cold morning.


Dennis
Click to expand...
 
I fitted my 5 kW heater in the cockpit Dennis with a view to running a duct into the cabin at a later stage.

The heater just warms the cockpit currently with one outlet.


I have to say that 3 of the "Brixham" boys and I had a nice cosy cuppa with it running. There was ice on the foredeck.....

Really worth doing just for that reason. I can now go out on cold frosty days when the Solent is calm and stay warm.

SWMBO is happy too��
 
Hot Property said:
I fitted my 5 kW heater in the cockpit Dennis with a view to running a duct into the cabin at a later stage.

The heater just warms the cockpit currently with one outlet.


I have to say that 3 of the "Brixham" boys and I had a nice cosy cuppa with it running. There was ice on the foredeck.....

Really worth doing just for that reason. I can now go out on cold frosty days when the Solent is calm and stay warm.

SWMBO is happy too��
Click to expand...

Nick

That is really useful information as I can fit in the cockpit very easily but was wondering if it would be worth it. It obviously is so will now go ahead

Dennis
 
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