Gold/Copper Plating Stainless Steel?

[Roach1948]

There have been a few threads regarding gold plating of Bronze fittings to avoid verdigris and constant polishing. I want to explore plating for different reasons. As I have mainly bronze fittings, I don't mind the patina of verdigris. My problem is that I think the stainless tops on my 1960's winches don't match my other fittings and they look decidely newer than all the original bronze Davies fittings. Is it possible to plate stainless tops in any way with gold or copper in order to add patina?

 

[Mirelle]

Not an answer, but

Mirelle was built in 1937 with chromium plated bronze portlights and skylight rods, and has since "acquired" a pair of Highfield levers ex "Mystery" (a boat built in the same year) which are likewise chrome plated bronze. The skylight rods lost their plating and in any case have been replaced, whilst the portlights (which are replacements) are still chrome plated.

Conclusion - I don't think stainless steel need seem "out of place".

 

[Roach1948]

Re: Not an answer, but

Actually helpful comment Mirelle as I am, again, faced with an aesthetic dimemma that I am sure many people have when restoring old boats. Roach was never intended to have winches at all, but somehow they were added over time, and of course its silly of me to spend money on making them look older than they really are. Its just that all the Davies stuff just came back from being professionally polished and the original bronze sheet lead blocks look stunning! All of a sudden I got the overwhelming urge of making everything on the yacht as good! - Focusing on the aesthetics has almost become a compulsion, and then I proctrastinate over essential tasks such as grinding back and filling the pittend keel base or making a new engine hatch. I need to learn how to let go if not I will never finish the restoration!

 

[keelbolts]

Re: Not an answer, but

I am a perfectionist by nature, but I learned, pretty early on, that while you are perfecting one end the other end is rotting off. If, like me, you are a wooden boat owner of modest means, you MUST learn to bring everything up together. I have a friend who hasn't learned that lesson and it causes him so much trouble. He had some bad places in his deck so, instead of fitting some dutchmen, he removed the deck. Seven years later he relaunched his boat. Save your boat, then improve it.

 

[Scarboroughsloop]

Re: Not an answer, but

Sounds like good advise to me. Now I must heed what your advise and put it into practise!!

 

[Mirelle]

Re: Not an answer, but

Yes, good advice.

I would also suggest trying to keep the boat sailing.

Mirelle has had three "years out", widely separated, in the 22 years I have had her. This seems to me a better system than getting the boat ashore and ripping things apart all at once, which is very tempting but which causes people like me to run out of steam.

This assumes, of course, that the boat is safe to sail when you buy her. If she is a wreck in need of a complete rebuild, this does not apply.

 

[Roach1948]

Re: Not an answer, but

Roach could sail, but only just and not safely..... She was a project really - but could have been a much shorter one! Fitting out the interior and installing a new engine and beds (hence destroying old cockpit in the process and needing to build new one) was where I got really bogged down. All the structural stuff was fairly straight forward actually - and I thought it would be the other way round. I am over the hill now and strangely the enthusiasm and help on this forum provides a healthy bit of motivation. Restoring a yacht is as much a mental challenge a physical one!

 

[Mirelle]

Re: Not an answer, but

Know what you mean. Re-doing the entire interior took ages (I went sailing with very little of it done, just bulkheads, and gradually added bits) and was far more troublesome than the "boat" stuff. I rebuilt the forepeak, knocked down the bulkhead (new position) re-did the saloon, etc.

I don't want to do that again.

 

[Ships_Cat]

Re: Not an answer, but

Stainless steel was being used architecturally/fittings in buildings, etc by the 1930's (for example, it was fashionable art deco material).

I wonder when it started being used on yachts? Maybe it qualifies on basis of age of first marine use as a "classic" material? - but I wouldn't know, just raising the possibility.

John

 

[cliff]

[ QUOTE ]
Is it possible to plate stainless tops in any way with gold or copper in order to add patina?

[/ QUOTE ]In a word - YES!

I would look at metal spraying companies and find one that does bronze spraying rather than EP Cu or Au. Gold will not oxidise and will stay shiney, Copper will look like old copper after some time Metal sprayed Bronze (polished after spraying)would give a pleasing "bronzey" patina.
--------------------

"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
sailroom <span style="color:red">The place to auction your previously loved boatie bits</span>

 

[brettdennis]

Stainless steel likes to breathe, coatings that cut off the oxygen supply encourage internal corrosion - at least that is what my fundi friends have told me in the past!

 

[cliff]

[ QUOTE ]
Stainless steel likes to breathe, coatings that cut off the oxygen supply encourage internal corrosion - at least that is what my fundi friends have told me in the past!

[/ QUOTE ]And you actually believe them? Oh dear.......... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
--------------------

"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
sailroom <span style="color:red">The place to auction your previously loved boatie bits</span>

 

[bobgosling]

Have you thought of selling the s/s winches and putting the money against new bronze winches ? I've seen them for sale, though I can't remember where just now.

 

[Roach1948]

Well that would be an expensive route I fear! Not only would I need to rebed new winches, but I suspect the price difference would be quite staggering. I will keep them - they are not 100% s/s but the drums are Tufnol - so they look sort of classic. The plates ontop of the drums are s/s and these are what I was thinking of getting plated. They are easy enough to remove.

 

[Scarboroughsloop]

If it is just the plates on top, maybe yoiu could ask Classic Marine about the cost of using them as a template for a bronze casting?

 

[Roach1948]

Good idea too - but I fear that wont be cheap either! A custom (small) bronze mast band cost me £60. A tiny Bronze welded spreader support was £20. So as much as I love Classic Marine, I am afraid their custom work aint cheap...

For the moment I will leave them alone. Thanks to Mirelle et al I realise I have more important priorities to spend my money on rather than aesthetics! I was just thinking about it last night. Scary conservative breakdown below!

launch Budget

Survey £250
Insurance £250
Low loader to Coast £350
Launch and mast stepping £100
Mooring £300

Sub Total £1250

Remaining restoration Budget (conservative)

Coelan Decks £100
New Running Rigging (new blocks) £200
Battery £50
Wiring £100
Paint topsides £50
Antifoul £80
Varnish £20
Remaining wood needed £100

Sub total £700
GRAND TOTAL £1950

YIKES!!!!!!!!!

 

[Scarboroughsloop]

I understand where you're coming from. I'm coming out of the water for a couple of weeks early spring to paint the topsides:

Recovery and launch £270
2 weeks hardstanding £67

I also want to change the engine mounts - that's a whopping £560 to get that done!!!! That is a Yanmar agent though as I don't do engines (aligning them sounds to complicated to me!) I think I must learn at the rate they charge!