martinriches
Well-Known Member
Has anybody had success using doublesided tape to stick foam backed vinyl to GRP cabin sides.
Martin
Martin
Gluing headlining.
- Thread starter martinriches
- Start date
VicS
Well-Known Member
Based on the lack of succes I have had with self adhesive tape on to the grp I would not even bother to consider it.
I lined my boat when new and stuck the lining with the adhesive that was supplied.
I relined it a few years ago and used the impact adhesive on the lining and spray adhesive on the back of the lining material recommended and supplied by Hawke House http://www.hawkehouse.co.uk/
Good ventilation and an organic vapours mask are essential when using solvent based adhesives such as these. HH can supply the mask.
A water resistant PVA glue can be used to stick the material to ply . Again HH can supply the glue.
.
I lined my boat when new and stuck the lining with the adhesive that was supplied.
I relined it a few years ago and used the impact adhesive on the lining and spray adhesive on the back of the lining material recommended and supplied by Hawke House http://www.hawkehouse.co.uk/
Good ventilation and an organic vapours mask are essential when using solvent based adhesives such as these. HH can supply the mask.
A water resistant PVA glue can be used to stick the material to ply . Again HH can supply the glue.
.
bob26
Well-Known Member
No but I did use some extremely sticky doublesided to stick up some aluminium foil to polythene vapour barrier in my loft - or the al to itself where it overlapped and found it had a very short life. Fortunately I'd also stapled it. I would consider both those things (foil and poly) much better candidates for taping - where you need good surface contact with the adhesive - than grp and foam, neither of which provide a smooth surface for tape to adhere to.
kieronriley
Well-Known Member
glue
i stuck some up using a carpet glue,if you go into your nearest flooring wholesaler and get a tub of f.balls f3 this will do the job,if you are realy good leave the glue to go trnslucent and then stick up your lining but if you are like most of us then just apply the glue and then stick up your lining this way you get the ability to move it so as to get it just right,hope this helps, Kieron
p/s you can buy it on e/bay
i stuck some up using a carpet glue,if you go into your nearest flooring wholesaler and get a tub of f.balls f3 this will do the job,if you are realy good leave the glue to go trnslucent and then stick up your lining but if you are like most of us then just apply the glue and then stick up your lining this way you get the ability to move it so as to get it just right,hope this helps, Kieron
p/s you can buy it on e/bay
wilkinsonsails
Well-Known Member
Dunlop thixofix is a good one, got some body to hold.Make sure you scrape off the worst of the original foam if that is still there.
Evostik is another,buy in a tin and spread or paint on.Spray glues only hold for a short time if there is any weight to support.
Double sided tapes deteriorate with air and heat,you cant guarantee total adhesion on a previously glued surface either as the glues may disagree and new solvent may release the old.
Evostik is another,buy in a tin and spread or paint on.Spray glues only hold for a short time if there is any weight to support.
Double sided tapes deteriorate with air and heat,you cant guarantee total adhesion on a previously glued surface either as the glues may disagree and new solvent may release the old.
VicS
Well-Known Member
Thiofix was IIRC the adhesive I used originally.
Evostick Timebond is the thixotropic Evostik equivalent.
Pros and cons of using a thixotropic adhesive vs a liquid one. Thixotropic easiesr to use I think
However it is probably worth getting a "high temperature" one. One that wont soften and come unstuck from areas that get heated by the sun. Vital for sunnier climes.
Hawke House also can supply discs for cleaning off the old foam and adhesive. ( and offer a refund on unused disc returned to them ) Cleaning off all the old stuff is the worst part of the whole job!
I also got a very useful advice leaflet from them.
OUZO
New Member
Try PINKGRIP will stick anything, even brick to brick I used it on my head lining in the shower of my boat you only need to apply a small amount,and comes in a tube that you use in a normal mastic gun easy to apply get it from most building suppliers.
gerry99
Well-Known Member
The best glue I have found for marine use is a spray glue called STAB (TGP STAB) from Trade Grade products in Wimbourne. It is specially formulated for upholstery etc. No connection to them except as a very satisfied customer, I redid all my headlinings using the product
Blueboatman
Well-Known Member
Just to add.
IMO and recent experiences, working my way through a 20m roll of new foamLESS lining , there are 2 useful little tricks.
Firstly. Use a notched spreader for your glue, both on the boat surface and lining.( ok apply to overhead surface using a 3 inch paintbrush but then notch it).
The 'grooves' created by the notches allow the minute movement necessary for both material and excess glue to 'go' somewhere when you start to seriously press the material into place.
Vinyls are remarkably stretchy and accomodating but are only as good as the glue attaching them, so the right glue correctly applied, with notches, will allow proper bedding down and then let the vinyl shrink v slightly ( as does wallpaper) to produce that perfect finish.
Second possible 'trick' . If the underlying grp is very rough maybe consider double lining it, instead of having to use foambacked again.
I have tested this on a couple of side lining boards where-ironically- they had been very soundly rebonded by someone at some stage. If anything the results are even better.
Have to say that internally, of the many things on my 'wish' and 'upgrades' list, replacing ageing magnolia foam backed linings with nonfoam ice white has transformed the boat more than any single other thing I could have done. Especially 'sharp' against stripped and revarnished teakwork, and using new fastenings and caps.. One of those 'Did I really do that, f8ck me' moments.
IMO and recent experiences, working my way through a 20m roll of new foamLESS lining , there are 2 useful little tricks.
Firstly. Use a notched spreader for your glue, both on the boat surface and lining.( ok apply to overhead surface using a 3 inch paintbrush but then notch it).
The 'grooves' created by the notches allow the minute movement necessary for both material and excess glue to 'go' somewhere when you start to seriously press the material into place.
Vinyls are remarkably stretchy and accomodating but are only as good as the glue attaching them, so the right glue correctly applied, with notches, will allow proper bedding down and then let the vinyl shrink v slightly ( as does wallpaper) to produce that perfect finish.
Second possible 'trick' . If the underlying grp is very rough maybe consider double lining it, instead of having to use foambacked again.
I have tested this on a couple of side lining boards where-ironically- they had been very soundly rebonded by someone at some stage. If anything the results are even better.
Have to say that internally, of the many things on my 'wish' and 'upgrades' list, replacing ageing magnolia foam backed linings with nonfoam ice white has transformed the boat more than any single other thing I could have done. Especially 'sharp' against stripped and revarnished teakwork, and using new fastenings and caps.. One of those 'Did I really do that, f8ck me' moments.
Vamoose
Well-Known Member
NO !
I presume you are trying to stick up old sagging headlining..
Double sided tape didnt work for me.
SO Removed old headlining and replaced... METHOD- scraped / sanded fibreglass till clean. Used spray on glue on headlining. And paint on glue on fibreglass, supplied by Hawk House in Gosport. I followed their recomendations and it worked well.
This also works on on old headling that has come unstuck
I presume you are trying to stick up old sagging headlining..
Double sided tape didnt work for me.
SO Removed old headlining and replaced... METHOD- scraped / sanded fibreglass till clean. Used spray on glue on headlining. And paint on glue on fibreglass, supplied by Hawk House in Gosport. I followed their recomendations and it worked well.
This also works on on old headling that has come unstuck
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VicS
Well-Known Member
That is Hawke House ! as previously mentioned.
samwise
Well-Known Member
The experts in this area prefer to do without any adhesive if possible. The preferred method is to stretch and staple the material at the edges, covering the fixings with special matching vinyl tape that can be "secret" stapled to cover the join.
In my experience ( as Westerly owner) the stick up route, whether glue or double side tape or whatever, is really a temporary solution and not really a "proper job." Glue is certainly quicker and less hassle. Using staple and stretch you usually have to fix ply strips to the edges to provide something to which you can staple, but in my view this method gives the best long term results. Over time glue will degrade, especially in higher temperatures and then the linings will sag , requiring more remedial work.
In my experience ( as Westerly owner) the stick up route, whether glue or double side tape or whatever, is really a temporary solution and not really a "proper job." Glue is certainly quicker and less hassle. Using staple and stretch you usually have to fix ply strips to the edges to provide something to which you can staple, but in my view this method gives the best long term results. Over time glue will degrade, especially in higher temperatures and then the linings will sag , requiring more remedial work.