Glueing stainless steel to GRP?

If I may ask one further question; what thickness of stainless steel sheet should I use? The overall size of the required plate is about 250mm x 200mm.

How bigs the anchor thats going to bash it?

If its a 50kg anchor you best have a far thicker plate than if you only have a 10kg anchor.

I would estimate that 16 - 22 guage would be close to what you require but the experts will know better..
 
Not sure of your UK gauge sizes but we would use sheet around 1.25-1.5 mm or so (is that about 16 - 18# ?). If point loads from the sharp end of a heavy anchor then around 1.5mm. For light applications providing protection from sheets, furling lines, etc on coamings, for example, 1.0mm may do - any thinner and I suspect over time one would risk lose adhesion around the edges due to the lack of ridigity.

As Cliff has alluded to you will not bend any of these in situ unless one was to be just using a long narrow strip bending it gently in 2 dimensions (rather than in 3D as Lakesailor's photo). SS sheet is much more rigid that mild steel and unless a very small piece that can be bent with a makeshift setup using a jig then a press is the best way to go.

Would be interesting to know what thickness Lakesailor used and how he bent it. While a small piece the inside raduis of the angle to match the boat would be quite difficult to do well (as Lakesailor's looks to have been) without a press brake, or maybe a folder.
 
Would be interesting to know what thickness Lakesailor used and how he bent it. While a small piece the inside raduis of the angle to match the boat would be quite difficult to do well (as Lakesailor's looks to have been) without a press brake, or maybe a folder.
Can't quite remember. I think it will be about 1.25mm (it was a panel from a commercial catering appliance). I cut it using tin shears. Luckily I have left and right handed pairs so I could avoid that unfortunate twisted effect you can get when changing the direction of cut. It was very tough to cut.
I made a template from cardboard and also cut profiles (at right angles to the bend) in cardboard to get the angle correct.
I put the s/s in a bench vice clamped between wooden battens and clamped two more wooden battens to the exposed bit of the plate above the vice jaws using two mole-grips. I left a strip, as wide as the curvature of the bend would end up, between them.
Then I just pulled the mole grips over to bend it and kept trying the profile templates against it until it seemed right. Then tried the piece on the boat. Then back to the vice to get it spot on. The difficulty only arose in that the angle altered along the length of the moulding to be covered.
Even such thin s/s is very tough to bend.
 
I have just come back from the boat, having failed to get a new ss sink held in place on a grp counter due to lack of space to manipulate the rubbish fasteners which came with the sink (or too large hands). I am wondering if these MS Polymer systems such as Tec7 would be a good idea to fix my sink in? They look suitable but you may know better ...
 
I have just come back from the boat, having failed to get a new ss sink held in place on a grp counter due to lack of space to manipulate the rubbish fasteners which came with the sink (or too large hands). I am wondering if these MS Polymer systems such as Tec7 would be a good idea to fix my sink in? They look suitable but you may know better ...

I think I know the type of fastener you mean..... Bu88ers arn't they.

You may find that some of these modern adhesives will stick it down and hold it in place but at what cost?
e.g. what happens if you ever want to remove it again for some reason?
 
You may find that some of these modern adhesives will stick it down and hold it in place but at what cost?
e.g. what happens if you ever want to remove it again for some reason?

Yes, know what you mean. However the one I removed was a moulded in grp one, so position wouldn't be any worse.
 
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