Glue

If its the sort of grab rail you have to trust yourself to, to stop you going over the side, I am not sure if any glue will be adequate. I think that a PU adhesive might be best, but check the manufacturers recommendations in respect of salt water exposure. You should consider whether the join can be drilled through and a teak dowel glued in place to strenghen it.
 
Recoursenol,but it will leave a brown glue line, epoxy will do it so will Balcotan, but in either case, you would be well to degrease the teak at the join with acetone first.

Cascamite, now known as Extramite is really only suitable for internal joinery, it is classified as water resistant, not waterproof.

Have a look here......

http://www.robbins.co.uk/marine/fixingsAdhesives.asp
 
It wouldn't hurt, but the OP as asking about glue. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
You can be quiet anall! /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Baaa-Baaaa.........

Your girls are calling! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
Well I don't necessarily agree, after all wooden masts and spars are glued and exposed to UV and salt water, depends on the glue, recoursenol glues are very strong, and it's usually the wood that breaks not the glue, trouble is, that recoursenol glue needs to be mixed very accurately, to achieve full strength in the joint. I also said that pinning or dowling wouldn't hurt, mind you, I think he is being a bit of a skinflint, why not have a new grab rail?
 
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<span style="color:white"> . </span>
What's the strongest glue for gluing together a broken external teak grabrail?

- W

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Epoxy resin and Micro fibres are very strong, however epoxy will degrade under UV light so the area would need painting or a special UV resistant varnish.

Last test we did with this stuff saw the timber each side of the glued area break but not the joint. we did pre treat the timber with Acetone then applied 3 coats or resin, wet on tacky, thinned with 30% Methylated Spirits to help penetration.

Avagoodweekend......
 
I think it depends among other things on whether you can effectively clamp the joint while the glue goes off. If you can clamp it then a PU glue such as Balcotan or Titebond would do the job, bit if as I suspect it's a a tricky problem to clamp, epoxy may work better.
 
For structural items I would always use epoxy.
Fillers could be added to match the epoxy colour to the teak.
The inside of the crack would need to be well cleaned with acetone to assist adhesion.
After it was set it would need coating with some UV resistant 'varnish'

If it is not structural then some polyurethene glue would be quite adequate.
I use several different brand names and types depending on the application.
Those include 5 minute setting whitish paste in cartridges or 25 minute setting brown stuff in plastic bottles. This tends to be more 'runny' and is nearer than the colour of the wood when set. I can post the particular sources and make later if requested.

There is also now available a D4 (seawater resistant) pva adhesive which can be quite useful and less messy than others, however it is quite slow setting and probably not strong enough for your particular task.

Everyone will have their own ideas of what is best based on their previous experiance and you will get many sugestions.

I tend not to use the older more traditional glues those days.

It is up to yourself to sort out the best for your task.

Iain
 
[ QUOTE ]
Cascamite, now known as Extramite is really only suitable for internal joinery, it is classified as water resistant, not waterproof.

[/ QUOTE ]

Manufacturer's Description
Humbrol Cascamite Adhesive (Wood)

Cascamite is a waterproof, synthetic resin adhesive for use on general joinery - especially outside woodwork and boat building.

Supplied as a powder to be mixed with water.
 
Possibly but Robins timber say it's only really water resistant, and best used on internal boat joinery.

Trouble is, "Cascamite" is now called Polymite, and Extramite, We always refered to it as "One Shot" in the trade. I would steer clear of it for the application that the OP needs. There are just better options all (imho) of course!
 
I would not use Cascamite, or what ever it is now called, for this application. Not totally waterproof for one thing and has never really worked for me anyway!

Resorcinol, which I think is what was meant earlier, would be better although I have never used it.

I would use either an epoxy or a PU

BUT if this is a grab rail on which someones safety might depend then I think replacement is the only sensible course of action unless the repaired joint can also be bolted through or dowelled.

Essential that any repair can be properly and firmly clamped until the glue has fully cured.
 
Cheers Vic!........I never could spell res.......resor........

Oh bugger, that brown shite! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
On my last boat I scarf jointed my rubbing band which was made from Iroko also an oily wood .

On one side I used epoxy which came a part after a few months.

On the other side I use PU which is still intact. Some of the offcuts that were glued with PU I tried to break the joint but the wood parted not the glue line.

I also built a small plywood stem dingy and the only screws I used was to joine the chines and gunnels to the stem and the ply to the stem where I could not use G-clamps. All joints using PU glue.
 
Could always call it 1,3-dihydroxybenzene /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

The glue was called "Cascophen" but now seems to go under the names "Polyproof" and "Extraphen"

Originally developed by a Dr Yarstey and used in the constrution of the WW2 De Havilland Mosquito
 
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