Glue for snag free anchor shackle?

Loctite.

This is specifically made for locking threads, and is used in such things as aircraft.

It comes in grades, from ' secure but fairly easy to undo with tools in future ' to ' Really secure, hard to undo in future '.

I'm afraid I only know the military aircraft grades, 221 semi-permanent & 290 almost permanent.

My uncle had his own machine shop, and could tell Loctite grades by their taste !

Then again, he is my late uncle...:rolleyes:
 
Blue Loctite is removable easily with tools, red Loctite is more permanent.

I have never tasted either.:D

As an aside on that I use a grade of Loctite branded "Screwlock" which is designed to leave fastenings reasonably easy to undo, it's red. The other grades marketed in that series are called "Nutlock" and "Studlock", there is probably a number grade to go with those grades but I don't know them. Studlock when used is virtually a weld and Nutlock somewhere in between..
 
When I bought my boat the previous owner had used iron oxide to prevent the shackle from coming undone. This was so effective I had to cut the shackle off! It can be time consuming to apply though so may not be ideal...

:D
 
When I bought my boat the previous owner had used iron oxide to prevent the shackle from coming undone. This was so effective I had to cut the shackle off! It can be time consuming to apply though so may not be ideal...

:D

There's a product idea.

Instant Rust.

£2.99 for the automotive version, but £17.99 for the Marine Anchor Safe Special pack.
 
There's a product idea.

Instant Rust.

£2.99 for the automotive version, but £17.99 for the Marine Anchor Safe Special pack.

... where the marine pack is 1/2 the volume of the automotive version, naturally.
 
Drill a 1mm hole through the shackle and pin and put in a split pin or wire

Not good advice. If you look at my tensile test results here you will see that almost all of the 10 mm galvanised shackles failed at a lower force than the 8 mm chain. 10 mm stainless steel ones did better but some of them failed at the same force as the 8 mm chain. Drilling a hole in any of them is not going to improve their load-bearing capability, by doing so you are deliberately introducing weakness to a component thay may already be weaker than the chain.

Loctite has done a perfect job for me, anchoring almost every day for 6 months of the year.
 
How can you use a cable tie on an Allen nut?

We use just the opposite approach: I use Lanocote on all those Allen screws on our anchor connector to the chain. This allows the Allen nuts to come out easily, even after years of service. I just check the condition of them regularly.

I anchor out every week, and have had no problems in 13 years. Don't try to weld them in with Locktite, rather make them easy to service and remove when you have to, and you eventually will. We do wire tie all our shackles.
 
Don't try to weld them in with Locktite, rather make them easy to service and remove when you have to, and you eventually will. We do wire tie all our shackles.

Loctite 242 is a long way from welding.

Product website says: LOCTITE® 242® is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces and prevents loosening and leakage from shock and vibration.

The OP was asking about countersunk Allen headed shackle pins in which wire tying is not possible.
 
Loctite underwater

Hello, I have been researching securing ground tackle and would like to pass on guidance from Sandy Adams of Loctite/Henkel:

"Water immersion AFTER the product is FULLY CURED is fine. Full cure on stainless steel is highly unpredictable. I recommend using Loctite Primer 7649 with Loctite 242 in order to ensure a full cure within 24 hours."
 
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