Getting out the last little dribble

Oh yes you are right, I think I was imagining the floats were full of mercury - that would be a problem.

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Go to local pet shop and purchase a long haired Gerbil. tie a length of thin cord of sufficient length to reach to the ends of each float to the gerbil's tail before introducing said rodent into the float. allow the creature to run a set distance up the inside, soaking up water as it goes, With the aid of the cord retrieve the gerbil and carefully wring it out before repeating as needed. This has the added advantage in that once dry the insides of the floats can be painted by dipping the gerbil into a tin of paint before re-introducing it into the floats. (NB, It is vital that the gerbil be thoroughly cleaned afterwards with thinners or a new gerbil will be required.) /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif/forums/images/icons/laugh.gif Mike.

<hr width=100% size=1>My Mum say's I'm not a fat b@st@rd, just heavy boned.
 
That's amazing, I was just about to suggest introducing a thirsty gerbil. They have very efficient kidneys and can drink seawater (possibly). I hadn't thought of its absorbent qualities as well.

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Also, as their fur is of such a fine consistancy it avoids leaving 'brush' marks. In fact why not experiment with attaching the gerbil to a stick for other painting jobs? By placing an adult pair in a suitable tank and allowing nature to take it's course you would end up with a limitless supply of high quality, totally biodegradable paint application pads.
The small tuft at the end of the tail would be ideal for fine detailing such as cove lines etc. The possabilities are endless. Mike.

<hr width=100% size=1>My Mum say's I'm not a fat b@st@rd, just heavy boned.
 
Re: How to get Gerbil Poo out of float..

Easy. A small dab of epoxy paint applied in the right area and allowed to dry would effectively prevent any such problem. The only down side to this method is that a carefull watch would have to be kept on the beast for any unusual swelling. A none flatulance inducing food source being a good starting point as a gerbil exploding within the close confines of a tri's float would be unfortunate to say the least. Mike

<hr width=100% size=1>My Mum say's I'm not a fat b@st@rd, just heavy boned.
 
there are some excellent pumps like oversize bicycle pumps that suck down to just a couple of mm and outlet through a pipe at the top
i bought mine from gaelforce earlier this year
they come in 2 sizes and would definitly go down the hatch into your float
cost about £15.00 i think but well worth the money
i've chucked out all those smelly old sponges!

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I've got one of those, but it doesn't work. The hatch is not big enough to get both my arms down (one to hold, the other to pump). I got into a few good contortions trying though, which amused the inevitable spectators which magically appear whenever I try to do something that makes me look like a complete plonker.

I also dropped the pump down the hatch where it fell to the bottom of the float. More giant chopstick manoeuvers amused the growing crowd.

<hr width=100% size=1>One day, I want to be a real sailor. In the mean time I'll just keep tri-ing.
 
Hi ...The wet and dry vac solution is what I use on my Dean cat which has inumerable compartments and troughs in th bilges. Ive just installed a stack of new batteries, and a 1500 watt inverter, and I have on board a 1300 watt wet'n dry vac. Not only only does my wife go sailing with me again...(the vac was the sticking point, and deemed essential), but I have recovered many treasures presumed lost over the years, nuts, bolts, washers, hairgrips, clothes pegs, bits of sticky tape, old kleenex, and lumps of sealant.
Not only does this dry out the bilges, either on suck or blow, it does so in record time. Imagine a 1300 watt bilge pump....the water level goes down so quickly you can actually feel the added bouyancy as the boat accelerates upwards.
I had to add a dinghy inflator air pump to cool the inverter, and the racket is awful, but one is conscious of having a serious bit of kit on board.....Cheers...R

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Imagine a 1300 watt bilge pump....the water level goes down so quickly you can actually feel the added bouyancy as the boat accelerates upwards.

eh?

Does the water not go into the aqua vac drum for you to then empty over the side?



<hr width=100% size=1>Julian

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.topcatsail.co.uk>
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Where do you get these Scottish specials at under a tenner then? The cheapest one I can find is £39 <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.argos.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=1751&productId=91005&Trail=C$cip=12363>C$cip=12365>C$cip=12371&categoryId=12371>here</A>. It says that it will pick up dirt and rubble as well though, so might be useful cleaning up after a giant constipated hamster has been rampaging through my floats.

I had a look at a few grot shops at lunchtime, but couldn't find a cheapo one. Poked my nose into Halfords too.


<hr width=100% size=1>One day, I want to be a real sailor. In the mean time I'll just keep tri-ing.
 
Now you can appreciate another trick !

Fastening a light line to ALL items that a) go through holes that you cannot reach tosaid item if dropped, b) that are used overside ..... c) you consider you would either 'look' or 'feel' a right plonker if you could not recover by using said line ......

QED mate !


<hr width=100% size=1>Nigel ... and of course Yahoo groups :
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/gps-navigator/
 
How about this, a combination of ideas:

You replace air vents with fitting which allows for a small pipe to be lead internally to the deepest part of the bilge, then attach (via another fitting) an electric air pump (or simple bycyle pump if you like) to create the pressure differential, and hey presto, pressure difference between inside and outside, so water leave hull!

No need to introduce rodents, vaccum cleaners, chops stick or other implements.

Pipes couple be lead from outside hulls to inside hull to allow them to be "bailed" from comfort of central position - even while under way.

/forums/images/icons/smile.gif Jeff

<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://users.swing.be/FDB/centurion/index2.html>Centurion 32 Web site</A>
 
Hello again Extravert

The one that I have actually cost me £6.99 from the "More" store in Dunoon, Also great for blowing up inflatables, runs on 12VDC and my bilges are not only bone dry but spic and span (unlike the canal boat on "How clean is your house?" on TV last night)

Not of exceptional quality but at that price I will be content to get a summer out of it.

I will see if there are any more when I get home this weekend

Regards
Cameron

<hr width=100% size=1>Work to live, live to sail
 
I reckon to shake it before tucking away. Stops the last drop going down the trouser leg!

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Hi Jools...nice point, but seriously, I've been using a wet 'n dry vac in the boat for years off a Honda generator (that REALLY was a racket) and in my old vac I fitted a small surplus Rule bilge pump to empty the vac tank over the side, or down the sink. The bilge got super dry and I didnt have to lug the full vac tank to the stern to empty it. Some extra cable and pipe though.
I notice that no one has suggested that a real man would just take a bit of pipe and suck it out, hawking over the side. Cheers....R

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These rodent ideas remind me I must apprentice the boy to the local sweep .
Not wishing to change the subject but are tri-meringues as fun as they look or a little livley on occaisions ?

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Speaking as an avid watcher of Pet Rescue(!) might I pass on my successful remedy to your prob. I have a very deep bilge sump (or at least my boat does) with an auto electric pump that doesn't get it completely dry. I use my little brass oil changer pump (about 11 or 12 quid in the mail order catalogues) with the suction pipe suitably extended. As the tube is cut off a roll it needs to be kept straight by taping it to a cane/broom handle/whatever. The smaller the bore of the tubing the drier you'll get things. Works great. Sorry to spoil the fun for you gerbil/rodent fetishists!

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