getting all the oil out of a KAMD300.....

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kashurst

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just serviced the engines ready for winter. I still haven't worked out how to get all the old oil out.
I sucked the oil out through the dipstick tube as per Volvo manual but because of the design of the pipe (it has a 90 bend in it) I can't get a flexible pipe right to the bottom of the sump.

What is the magic trick? - can you do it through the turbo oil return pipe?
 
kashurst said:
just serviced the engines ready for winter. I still haven't worked out how to get all the old oil out.
I sucked the oil out through the dipstick tube as per Volvo manual but because of the design of the pipe (it has a 90 bend in it) I can't get a flexible pipe right to the bottom of the sump.

What is the magic trick? - can you do it through the turbo oil return pipe?
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I'm not aware of one. Getting more than 2/3rds would be considered a success by many. It certainly was by one engineer I discussed this with. Funnily enough, if you take these engines for a service at a Volvo Penta dealer, they are happy to invoice for the full fill capacity.
 
scubaman said:
Funnily enough, if you take these engines for a service at a Volvo Penta dealer, they are happy to invoice for the full fill capacity.
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Perhaps if serviced by someone who knows what they are doing they will take the required amount of oil (about 11 litres IIRC), I know mine would when they were serviced as I have seen them done on more than one occasion. If you dont trust your engineer it’s time to find a new one
 
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No idea if it will get more out but I use a small 12v oil extractor pump but rather than using the thin tube passed into the dip tube, I use the other thicker tube with a plastic end. This fits snuggly an inch or so into the dip stick tube then a bit of leccy tape to make a good seal around the top.

Seems to work well but I guess it depends how low the dip tube is in the sump.
 
Boat2016 said:
Perhaps if serviced by someone who knows what they are doing they will take the required amount of oil (about 11 litres IIRC), I know mine would when they were serviced as I have seen them done on more than one occasion. If you dont trust your engineer it’s time to find a new one
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Would like to share with us the method they used to extract the oil. I stuggled to get any more than maybe 7-8 liters.
 
scubaman said:
Would like to share with us the method they used to extract the oil. I stuggled to get any more than maybe 7-8 liters.
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He used a Pela pump on the dipstick tube and don’t forget to count the contents of filter, engine was hot after a run.
 
I could be wrong here but think you will find the dipstick tube itself is the oil axtraction tube, ie no need for a thin plastic one down the inside.
I had this same set up on a previous petrol engined boat and could never ever get it to work as it should, so just used a thinner nylon tube down the dipstick hole, took and age and still didnt get all the oil out!
I think current boat has a seperate oil extraction pipe.
 
My experience with KAD 300 ,s was like the Op only about 8/9 L out of irrc 12 L
We used a Pela pump .
Hot engine and both direct on the dip tube and smaller insert .You have to twiddle the insert a bit around to find the oil .
We never got more than 9 L out .
Tbo I thought it was a bit crappy design wise but with 50/80 hrs per year and an annual change I guess it not too bad .
I would have liked a full sump plug esq change after a complete drain ,but as said only liesure use it seemed to be ok with basically a annual grand dilution 8/9 for 12 as opposed to 11.9 for 12 .

Meanwhile the Germans ( don’t you just love there detail design / engineering ? ) with my MAN s fit a drain pump and pipage .
Key thing is this the pipage is where a sump plug plug would be .They even think out the “ marine “ bit and realise it will be tilted back a bit so make a special sump pan , lower profile with you’ve guessed it the exist at the lowest point in my case the rear as straight shafts ,
So the spec is 32 L and guess what we remove 32 L - Germans :) there’s no moss on there engineers :encouragement:

How do you get the sludge out if you can’t access the lowest point ?

Sort of makes a mockery and defeats somewhat the concept of a pre winter change because the alleged naughty acid parts and more solids bits ,in the sludge are at the base of the sump pan .Or am I missing something .
It’s the last few L that are important.
 
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thanks for the replies. yes the oil was properly warm, yes I used a good electric pump to get it out, and yes seal of hose to dipstick tube was good etc. But as Scubaman said still had 2 - 3 Litres left in and the pump is just sucking air. Whats bugging me is that when I bought the boat the oil was very new and still very clean, so clearly whoever did it knows a way to get a tube right to the bottom of the sump. I shall investigate the crank case breather next time and see if I can take off the oil separator and access the sump through the separator drain tube. It doesn't really matter as I have changed 70%+ of the oil so getting lots of new detergent and corrosion inhibitors in there. Its just a bit disappointing that when you dip the "new" oil its already dirty especially having bought the proper volvo stuff
 
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