Genoa track One bolt, one leak, perfectly drilled to fit the bolt

[Jamesuk]

Out of 26 or so bolts one has had to fail after 3 years since the last leak. This time it is just the one bolt. But because the hole is so perfectly drilled I cannot access around the bolt through the hole in the deck to try and seal it.

Anyone familiar with these tracks from Lewmar is that to get access to one thru deck hole you have to remove all the rest of the bolts and wedge up the track to gain access to the one single bolt.

Ok so I am looking for some ideas to fix this mild leak. Frustrating because to do it properly all 26 bolts need to be brought up, that means the microwave has to be pulled out and two lots of perfectly fitted headlining and perhaps a good few days of sunshine to dry out the deck to refit it otherwise we are back to square one; another bolt some where else.

1st idea - Wool and Arbo Mast or " Fill the gap ". ;-)

Cheers in advance.

 

[Poignard]

It won't hurt to try Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure.

Sounds like a quack remedy but it's often surprisingly effective

 

[Jamesuk]

It won't hurt to try Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure.

Sounds like a quack remedy but it's often surprisingly effective

That is great, I will wonder over and buy some tomorrow and see how I get on, sadly I have gravity against me so I will have to devise a way of pumping it up through the bolt.

Cheers

 

[Poignard]

Good luck. The CTCCC website suggests a hypodermic syringe for overhead cracks. I've never tried that so I can't say how successful it would be.

http://www.captaintolley.com/product

 

[jdc]

To seal the bolt you can use a washer with butyl rubber attached to it. When done up, the rubber seals the thread and the area around it. I prefer butyl rubber to mastic anyway.

See for instance http://www.pts-uk.com/Products/0002002e0001/A905508425

 

[Tranona]

Can't you just undo the nut and wind the screw out from the top and put sealer in the hole before replacing it. That is how I installed all the screws for my tracks. None leaked in 20 odd years.

 

[Ardenfour]

Depends - leak via bolt head, remove bolt, apply ring of butyl under head and tighten down again. But if leaking under the track would need to be raised to get sealant in place

 

[Jamesuk]

Can't you just undo the nut and wind the screw out from the top and put sealer in the hole before replacing it. That is how I installed all the screws for my tracks. None leaked in 20 odd years.

In order to do this using the track on board, all 26 bolts will have to be removed from below and the track then "wedges" up in one line bit by bit.

I will look into using some dinghy repair kit for lack of the butyl washers mentioned above. I have Arbo MAst which should help.

Currently using the Captains Creeks cracks and... will see how it all works out next time at sea although just spoken to the yard and it is a job for May as we have the full month to deal with it.

 

[Tranona]

In order to do this using the track on board, all 26 bolts will have to be removed from below and the track then "wedges" up in one line bit by bit.

Maybe I have this wrong, but is the track not secured to the deck with machine screws through the top and nuts at the bottom? If only one is leaking why the need to remove all the bolts, let a lone lift the track. Undo the nut, screw the machine screw out from the top, coat in sealant and replace. Bolt hole now sealed.

 

[macd]

It's not altogether clear, Tranona, but maybe it's the sort of track with hidden fasteners, in which a slot on the underside engages on the hex of the fasteners?

 

[PetiteFleur]

I've used butyl rubber very successfully for this sort of job - you can get it for sealing d/g glass into wooden frames. Had some left over from my extension and now use it anywhere that needs sealing on the boat. It stays flexible and does not harden. Remove the screw, wind the rubber around the screw threads, insert and tighten, remove what has extruded out.

 

[Tranona]

Could be. In that case doubt Capt Tolleys would work as difficult to see a pathway to the bolt hole.

 

[Jamesuk]

I've used butyl rubber very successfully for this sort of job - you can get it for sealing d/g glass into wooden frames. Had some left over from my extension and now use it anywhere that needs sealing on the boat. It stays flexible and does not harden. Remove the screw, wind the rubber around the screw threads, insert and tighten, remove what has extruded out.

I use Arbo mast (butyl) which is very good and forgiving if what ever you are doing causes a leak you can easily remove the part and start again where as the strong adhesive sikaflex that floats around yards as the must use product is not.

I recently sorted out a leak on a cleat which had a similar issue but I was able to access the 4 long bolts, remove the cleat and do as you suggest but with the Track I cannot access the track bolt heads (Impossible by design).

I have used the Captains Leak stuff and so far it seems to be working well although until I get a tonne of water rolling along the deck and it's now been two days and I am keen to get the head lining back up.

I have some Rubber dinghy patches and am looking at making up a large washer to assist.

Cheers for the ideas

James

 

[Daydream believer]

If it is the sort with captive bolt heads there must be a void formed by the slot that forms the groove that the bolt head head sit in.
I would imagine that the water enters the grooved area between the joint between track & deck & runs along in the groove until it finds your bolt & hey presto down it goes
I assume the track is fairly stiff within itself & that you know where about along the track the head of the suspect bolt comes.
Can you drill down from the top through the track ( but not the deck) with , say 6mm diam holes. One close each side of the bolt head. Then pour in loads of resin or crack filler or pump in sikaflex to completely fill the groove either side of the bolt head .
Have never used crack filler but if it has "seeking" qualities it may find its way around your bolt head. With a bit of luck it will form around the bolt head as well as fill the groove.
That would save removing the head lining etc & may be worth a punt first

 

[Jamesuk]

Maybe I have this wrong, but is the track not secured to the deck with machine screws through the top and nuts at the bottom? If only one is leaking why the need to remove all the bolts, let a lone lift the track. Undo the nut, screw the machine screw out from the top, coat in sealant and replace. Bolt hole now sealed.

the bold heads are hidden under the track. the bolt heads are within their own track so access is from inside only.

ps I sorted it using the principle idea PetiteFleur suggested so thank you all round