SimonD
Well-Known Member
Is there any risk in sliding the propshaft backward to give room to get the gearbox out whilst afloat? It's a Volvo type rubber seal and I can't see that it would be a problem but am I missing something?
Gearbox out?
- Thread starter SimonD
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pvb
Well-Known Member
Things to watch for...
No major problems, but a couple of things to watch for. First, make sure the propshaft is clean and smooth, so that it won't damage the seal (might be worth lubricating the section of propshaft you're going to slide into the seal). Second, if you have a ropecutter installed it usually needs aligning manually with the fixed mount when the shaft is put back to its normal position.
Are you checking the dreaded splines?
No major problems, but a couple of things to watch for. First, make sure the propshaft is clean and smooth, so that it won't damage the seal (might be worth lubricating the section of propshaft you're going to slide into the seal). Second, if you have a ropecutter installed it usually needs aligning manually with the fixed mount when the shaft is put back to its normal position.
Are you checking the dreaded splines?
Kawasaki
Well-Known Member
It wasn,t on mine.
But which eng/box have you got?
But which eng/box have you got?
Kawasaki
Well-Known Member
Pillock, mean,t to say it WAS on mine. Old timers setting in!
What,s up with the gearbox?
What,s up with the gearbox?
Steve_N
Well-Known Member
I did this on my Storm once: removed the MS2B reverse gear while afloat. No problems - just slid the shaft back as you suggest. As I was leaving the boat afloat for 3 or 4 weeks while the gearbox was rebuilt I built a temporary timber structure and screwed the drive flange to it so that the shaft couldn't move about.
sailorman
Well-Known Member
anode in front of "P" bracket
SimonD
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the replies. It's a Volvo 2002 and MS2B gearbox and yes, I am checking the dreaded splines. They were OK a couple of years ago but I'm somewhat paranoid. Good tip about the temporary timber thingy; I'll do that if it has to go off for modification. The shaft anode is about 6 inches away from the P bracket. Cunningly placed to stop the shaft sliding out!
pvb
Well-Known Member
Splines...
If your gearbox splines aren't too badly worn, there's a Volvo Penta conversion which introduces some cushioning into the flywheel coupling, and should prolong the effective life of the splines. It's a fairly easy DIY job once you've got the gearbox out. I did mine a couple of years ago.
If your gearbox splines aren't too badly worn, there's a Volvo Penta conversion which introduces some cushioning into the flywheel coupling, and should prolong the effective life of the splines. It's a fairly easy DIY job once you've got the gearbox out. I did mine a couple of years ago.
KREW2
Well-Known Member
I have the same engine and gear box, out of interest how many running hours has your engine done?
SimonD
Well-Known Member
Re: Splines...
Interesting. Where does the cushioning fit? Is it between the propshaft and gearbox flanges or buried somewhere inside?If it's the former, R&D marine sell a flexible couping for about £40. I was thinking of getting one of those but to reduce vibration rather than extend the life of the splines.
Interesting. Where does the cushioning fit? Is it between the propshaft and gearbox flanges or buried somewhere inside?If it's the former, R&D marine sell a flexible couping for about £40. I was thinking of getting one of those but to reduce vibration rather than extend the life of the splines.
pvb
Well-Known Member
Re: Splines...
It replaces the existing splined drive plate bolted to the flywheel with a new splined drive plate which sits on cushioned bolt heads. There's a pic of it and a description here on the Westerly Owners Association website. When I took my gearbox out to have a look the spline wear didn't look too bad so I took it to the local VP dealer who suggested fitting the conversion kit. Although the WOA article suggests it's unlikely to be any good for engines earlier than 1993, my engine's a 1990 2003T with about 2000 hours.
It replaces the existing splined drive plate bolted to the flywheel with a new splined drive plate which sits on cushioned bolt heads. There's a pic of it and a description here on the Westerly Owners Association website. When I took my gearbox out to have a look the spline wear didn't look too bad so I took it to the local VP dealer who suggested fitting the conversion kit. Although the WOA article suggests it's unlikely to be any good for engines earlier than 1993, my engine's a 1990 2003T with about 2000 hours.
SimonD
Well-Known Member
Difficult to say how many hours it's run. She was launched in 1989 and I'm the third owner; there's no engine hours meter. So, my guess is: eighteen seasons at say 100 hours per annum = 1800 hours ish. I last checked in January 2004 and there was some wear, but it didn't look anything like as bad as the scary pictures on the Westerly Owners website. Problem is: I've no idea how quickly they wear. At the moment, I'm thinking it took sixteen seasons to get some wear; it ought to last another five to ten. Or am just kidding myself.... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
What's yours like?
What's yours like?
SimonD
Well-Known Member
Re: Splines...
Thanks for that. Mine is certainly showing signs of wear and I think I'd rather get the hex mod done for peace of mind; I intend to keep the boat for a few years. Good luck with yours though.
Thanks for that. Mine is certainly showing signs of wear and I think I'd rather get the hex mod done for peace of mind; I intend to keep the boat for a few years. Good luck with yours though.
nigelhudson
Well-Known Member
Re: Splines...
I did the hex mod on my Storm this year after the splines sheared. I left the flange in place and slid the shaft back as far as the the rubber cover on the gland (no stripper). I just left it like that for nearly 4 weeks whilst the input shaft was modded. I didn't bother restraining the flange as suggested above but the boat was in a sheltered marina.
If I was taking the gear box off again I'd get a couple of spare longer bolts and saw the heads off. Then I'd use these to locate the gearbox when offering it up to the engine - it was not an easy job to align it freehand!
I did the hex mod on my Storm this year after the splines sheared. I left the flange in place and slid the shaft back as far as the the rubber cover on the gland (no stripper). I just left it like that for nearly 4 weeks whilst the input shaft was modded. I didn't bother restraining the flange as suggested above but the boat was in a sheltered marina.
If I was taking the gear box off again I'd get a couple of spare longer bolts and saw the heads off. Then I'd use these to locate the gearbox when offering it up to the engine - it was not an easy job to align it freehand!
SimonD
Well-Known Member
Re: Splines...
Thanks Nigel; that's very helpful. Was it the DB Marine kit? A couple of bolts to align it sounds like a good idea. Anything else I should look out for?
Thanks Nigel; that's very helpful. Was it the DB Marine kit? A couple of bolts to align it sounds like a good idea. Anything else I should look out for?
KREW2
Well-Known Member
Re: Splines...
My boat was built in 1984 tha engine hour meter shows only 754 hours. I tend to believe it as the lady I bought it from was an elderly widow, who with her late husband had owned the boat for some 14 years, but I think I will still take a look this winter anyway. With regards to your spline my feeling is that once you have a little wear the time factor allowed for further problems will decrease, due to less tolerance
My boat was built in 1984 tha engine hour meter shows only 754 hours. I tend to believe it as the lady I bought it from was an elderly widow, who with her late husband had owned the boat for some 14 years, but I think I will still take a look this winter anyway. With regards to your spline my feeling is that once you have a little wear the time factor allowed for further problems will decrease, due to less tolerance
SimonD
Well-Known Member
Re: Splines...
I understand that the problem can occur at quite low engine hours, so you're probably right to check. On the time factor, you're spot on (wish I'd have thought of that!). Once there's some wear, it gives more room for 'fretting' (much like myself) thus accelerating the wear. Now I'm getting really paranoid!
I understand that the problem can occur at quite low engine hours, so you're probably right to check. On the time factor, you're spot on (wish I'd have thought of that!). Once there's some wear, it gives more room for 'fretting' (much like myself) thus accelerating the wear. Now I'm getting really paranoid!
nigelhudson
Well-Known Member
Re: Splines...
Yes it was the DB kit. The shimming was a little tricky. I talked to DB, read the instructions carefully and then left them at home when I went to fit it! I took the dimensions and calculated the correct shim thickness but upon fitting the gearbox and torquing it all up the engine would not turn over. So I stripped it all down again and measured it slightly differently. This indicated that I needed to take about 1.5 mm out of the shim stack so I took out 2 mm and it worked fine.
Yes it was the DB kit. The shimming was a little tricky. I talked to DB, read the instructions carefully and then left them at home when I went to fit it! I took the dimensions and calculated the correct shim thickness but upon fitting the gearbox and torquing it all up the engine would not turn over. So I stripped it all down again and measured it slightly differently. This indicated that I needed to take about 1.5 mm out of the shim stack so I took out 2 mm and it worked fine.
H4B
Well-Known Member
Simon
No problem pushing shaft back through seal but surely the problem comes when you want to pull the shaft back to join to the gear box because you have to fit the insert to protect the rubber lips inside the seal and my guess is, it will leak some - so you will have to work quickly.
Good luck.
No problem pushing shaft back through seal but surely the problem comes when you want to pull the shaft back to join to the gear box because you have to fit the insert to protect the rubber lips inside the seal and my guess is, it will leak some - so you will have to work quickly.
Good luck.