Gear Puller for prop removal - Volvo Penta 120s

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desioak

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At ease ! Gather round !!

I will be replacing the anode on a Volvo Penta 120s saildrive in the near future and would like to have everything ready before lift out. I read a post here which mentioned for propeller removal an automotive Gear Puller could be used instead of a dedicated Propeller Puller. Can anybody tell me what size Gear Puller I would need ? Alternatively can somebody tell me the external diameter of the prop (standard 2 blade non folding ) at the "Blade Root", please ?

Many thanks in advance.

Carry on !
 
PCUK is right ... and wrong. :eek: I couldn't get mine off this year without a puller ... the dim. is 95mm
 
One year my Radice folding propeller wouldn't come off my 120S saildrive so a friend may me a puller. It's basically a bolt with a threaded thick plate at right angles. The plate will just fit inside the propeller then the blade pivot bolts are replaced and the bolt screwed in. This pulls the plate outwards. See picture (as soon as the moderators have approved it!).

picture.php


Edit: I've just realised that my post only applies to folding propellers and not the satndard Volvo fixed two bladed.
 
Last edited:
PCUK said:
You shouldn't need a puller for a Saildrive prop' as it is a splined shaft and not a taper fitting.
Click to expand...

This is correct.

You need a hex spanner to remove the bolt through the cone; bring along a piece of piping to give yourself extra leverage. Wedge the prop to immobilise it using a piece of wood against the bottom of the boat. Take care - Do not let the hex spanner knurl the bolt otherwise you are in trouble - dig out crustacea etc to allow the hex spanner max contact surface!

You need a heavy duty screwdriver to put through the cone to turn it off.

The prop will slide off on its splines. Use no force in doing this.

The annular anode is removed with a large phillips screwdriver (deep cut facets) - again, do not allow these two screws to be wrecked during removal - more trouble for you!

An impact screwdriver can be used but carefully otherwise the bearings in the base of the 120 housing will be damaged!

This is the worst scenario - just be prepared and all will go smoothly, even if a little slowly!


PWG
 
If you do round off the hex bolt - don't panic - you can remove 1/2" of the cone and then use a stud extractor or grips to remove the bolt - you can then replace the bolt with a shorter normal bolt and washer ... :)

I've posted about this before ...

Oh - and my prop came off easily - no need for a puller ...
 
Thanks very much for the advice/answers here. The anode removal was a success. The shaft was well greased and as a result the prop came off with ease.
 
and now.....;

desioak said:
Thanks very much for the advice/answers here. The anode removal was a success. The shaft was well greased and as a result the prop came off with ease.
Click to expand...

Thatadda boy!

Now change the oil and do use a synthetic to the right grade, not necessarily Volvo's which is mega expensive.

Getting the screw out of the bottom of the S leg takes another nack. Big blade (really big) and spanner or mole grip on the shaft, bearing upwards hard to prevent the blade skipping.

Get new washer for the oil tap screw - don't take a chance on losing the oil at sea! Tighten very firmly using grips again.

Put back oil through the dipstick - the oil cap is too slow! If you remove the oil cap replace the large neoprene washer - the old one will have expanded in use and will NOT keep the oil in under operating pressures. How do I know?

Lovely jobbly....

PWG
 
PeterGibbs said:
Thatadda boy!

Now change the oil and do use a synthetic to the right grade, not necessarily Volvo's which is mega expensive.

Getting the screw out of the bottom of the S leg takes another nack. Big blade (really big) and spanner or mole grip on the shaft, bearing upwards hard to prevent the blade skipping.

Get new washer for the oil tap screw - don't take a chance on losing the oil at sea! Tighten very firmly using grips again.

Put back oil through the dipstick - the oil cap is too slow! If you remove the oil cap replace the large neoprene washer - the old one will have expanded in use and will NOT keep the oil in under operating pressures. How do I know?

Lovely jobbly....

PWG
Click to expand...
Unless it's a 120SE, use engine oil, not synthetic.
 
Actually I wasn't going to change the oil. Reason for this is the leg was sent off for full service approx four years ago when the boat was re-engined and has had no more than 50 hours since. The oil is clear and clean. Is that a mistake ?

If that hasn't outraged enough people - I'm not planning on changing the seals on the shaft either !! :)

Thanks again.
 
Just a word of caution - I had great difficulty getting my prop off - reason - locktight -
required lots of boiling water to release , then no problem. First time the original prop was removed.
 
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