Gauge of reefing lines

[eddystone]

When I bought new dyneema halyards about 18 months ago I recycled the not so old 10mm braid on braid Genoa halyard into reefing lines. Now I’ve got over the cost of the dyneema do you think it would be worthwhile changing the reefing lines to 7 or 8mm for reduced friction? Only a small main, c. 19m2

 

[npf1]

I've just had all the running rigging done by a reputable rigger for a 26sqm main and 8mm dyneema is what was used for the reefing lines, although it will be not as comfortable to handle (ie. pull) as it's a smaller line.

Putting some blocks (or friction rings) on the reefing points along the leech would probably reduce friction more than merely dropping a rope size. Also at the luff reefing points it's simple to go 2:1 and maybe also blocks or friction rings. If reducing friction is your goal, a useful first round of improvements would be a) ensuring every sheave your reefing lines run through are turning as they should, and b) seeing if it's possible to reduce the number of angle changes by routing differently. These are the improvements that have just been done to mine (including blocks on the leech) - but I've not been able to go sailing yet, so I can't comment on the difference they've made!

 

[Daydream believer]

I have a 28M2 main & have 8mm braid on braid single line reefing. I see no need for dynema for this but I do have 8mm dynema halyards on both of my laminate sails
the leech just has simple eyes & the luff has ball race blocks on spectacles. The turning blocks on the deck are also ball race. The lines then pass through spinlock aligners to winches. there are no blocks inside the boom to cause extra friction.
I find the system works well & suits my single handed sailing.

 

[savageseadog]

Advantages of Dyneema for reefing lines:

Stronger for given diameter
Less weight potentially
Less stretch

Don't know about abrasion resistance

Dyneema is better for performance sailing but fine tuning seems to go out of the window once a reef is needed, it's usually more about keeping going through the waves and weather so Dyneema might be superfluous.

 

[BelleSerene]

I've just had all the running rigging done by a reputable rigger for a 26sqm main and 8mm dyneema is what was used for the reefing lines, although it will be not as comfortable to handle (ie. pull) as it's a smaller line.

Putting some blocks (or friction rings) on the reefing points along the leech would probably reduce friction more than merely dropping a rope size. Also at the luff reefing points it's simple to go 2:1 and maybe also blocks or friction rings. If reducing friction is your goal, a useful first round of improvements would be a) ensuring every sheave your reefing lines run through are turning as they should, and b) seeing if it's possible to reduce the number of angle changes by routing differently. These are the improvements that have just been done to mine (including blocks on the leech) - but I've not been able to go sailing yet, so I can't comment on the difference they've made!

^ wot he said.

Dyneema is better for performance sailing but fine tuning seems to go out of the window once a reef is needed, it's usually more about keeping going through the waves and weather so Dyneema might be superfluous.

It’s really not superfluous - especially if you’re rigging 2:1 purchase, ie reefing line from boom end/ gooseneck up to reef and back down again. The rope stretches in the ~20 minutes after you put the reef in, making the sail baggy and overpowered, which is the opposite of what you want inbreeding conditions. Dyneema fixes that.

My reefing was revolutionised when I turned to 8mm (polyester braided for handling) dyneema reefing lines - 8mm is the smallest the clutches will hold - and low friction rings soft-shackled to luff & leech reefing eyes to reduce the friction at that 180 deg bend.

 

[William_H]

As said sail needs to be very flat and well stretched when reefed to give best windward performance. If you do go through the leach eyelet and back to the boom giving a 2 purchase then chafe is your enemy. The edge of the eyelet being small if not sharp. This point takes all the load of the main sheet so really gets a lot of pressure. 10mm polyester will give a lot of chafe resistance (back up thickness) so is desirable once reef is in. Presumably at present 10mm is OK in blocks etc. I don't think stretch of the 10mm will be a big problem if it is you need to nip it up tighter after a while. olewill

 

[[70521]]

I have 6mm braid on braid reefing lines led back to the cockpit. Pretty easy to handle as I reef with a wrap round the winch.

 

[Neeves]

We have a 45m^2 main, single line reefing. For the 3rd reef we have 10mm braided polyester spliced into 6mm dyneema. We take in the dyneema and the braid is only long enough to be held in the clutch, reefing is done by winch.

The primary reason for the choice was to reduce the volume of cordage, make hauling in the volume easily (because it is thinner) and not sacrifice any strength.

The first and second reef, single line reefing, are 10mm dyneema. The 1st and 2nd reef are quite small - if we need something more than the 2nd, its getting taxing.

We use the 3rd reef very frequently and its an especially (personal choice) big reef, reducing the main to 25% of area.

Jonathan