Gas pressure regulator?

[Skyva_2]

The burners on our cooker seem to operate at very high pressure such that it is difficult to light the gas except when the control is turned down.

Obviously this is creating the risk of unburnt gas escaping and needs urgent attention! I suspect the gas pressure regulator is not operating correctly and probably needs replacement. Its over 10 years old and I believe this is the recommended useful life.

Before I go ahead with this does anyone have alternative explanations for the problem?

Thanks in advance.

Keith

 

[Shanty]

Regulators (of the bottle mounted variety) are so cheap & easy to fit, it seems an obvious one to check first.

You don't say whether this is a new problem, or something that has been with you since you first used the cooker. In the latter case, if the new regulator doesn't solve the problem, it might be worth checking that the cooker is correctly jetted for the gas you are using.

 

[david_bagshaw]

Of course replacement of gas equpement should be done by CORGI qualified fitters.

From a practical point , sounds likely to be the reg, unless the gas was left on during the winter, and it condensed in the pipes, inwhich case after a while the pressure will return to normal.

Regulators should be changed every 5 years anyway.



David
www.euroboating.net

 

[jfkal]

Could be that pressure and stove do not match. There a two types 30mmHG and 50mmHG. I suspect you use 50 on a 30 system

 

[mtb]

The plate on the cooker should tell you the max gas pressure and gas type either propane or butane .
As the other lads have said you may well have a butane cooker but running on propane.
I prefer propane because when its very cold the butane loses its pressure compared to the propane . The pressure regulator if propane can be adjusted (according to type that is) by using a manometer .
Change the regulator regularly even when its not been in use ,the diaphragm will harden after a few years.
A full gas system check does sound like its needed ,it wont take long and again involves checking cooker heater and all other appliances .
A manometer is a very simple tool to make so if you want to check it your self (for leakage ) get a length of tubing say about 2 ft but of the right size so that it fits on to the pressure testing valve then a piece of wood and some tape .
Get some water in the tube around half full then tape it to the wood .
Connect the tube to your pressure testing valve , now pressurise the system and open the testing valve .Turn the gas off ,there should be a shut off valve close to the gas bottle also every appliance as well.
Your manometer will have shown the gas pressure because the water will have moved ,mark this with a line .
Give it a while you will see a slight drop but any more then its time to get the cup with washing up liquid out a small brush will be ideal but your finger will do.
check every joint to find the leak . Gently tighten the joint then test again .
Don't misunderstand this is not me saying diy with disregard for the health and safety and gas regs .
But if your out at sea or just want to see for your self before the engineer comes !!.
If your gas pipes are all behind panels then what if comes to mind .
A rough sea causes things to move .
Mick

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/boats
I want a big steel ex trawler / tug v / cheap or swap for tug

 

[jollyjacktar]

Treat your self to a new one!

Buy a new one, they bolt on at the bottle, are not expensive and you can be fit it yourself. This will fix the problem for sure!!!! It will also give you peace of mind. They require little more skill to fit than to change the gas bottle, and I presume that you have the ability to do this with out calling in a "Corgi".

After the gas passes thru the regulator it is only a few psi. As an extra precaution you can also get another bolt on gadget, fitted in the line that will close the gas down if it detects excessive gas flow, [leaks]. But I am not too sure about these. I prefer to check the system often, by brushing over the joints etc, with some soapy water [wash up detergent and water in a cup] and looking for bubbles or foaming that will indicate a gas leak. And I always turn the gas off at the bottle and let the burner keep running till it extinguishes, then turn it off at the stove.

It is not difficult to sort out, although "Corgi" and other tradesmen will try to convince you otherwise. Needless to say if you do not have the skills to do this yourself, you should seriously examine your fitness to be in charge of a vessel. You may be endangering your crew, passengers and the rest of the boating fraternity. However I should not be preaching. It is for you to make up your own mind.

 

[VMALLOWS]

Keith,

Although all the explanations regarding pressure regulation should be explored, I would suggest you check the condition of the burner heads. ( the round bits with holes in that the flame comes out of!). On boat cookers (especially Plastimo) these corode badly, restricting the gas flow and resulting in the ' blue flaming' you're probably seeing on lighting.

 

[VMALLOWS]

jfkal

50mb regulators:

At last someone acknowledges these exist! Where are you?....Germany, Sweden?
I have an Electrolux fridge which insists on 50mb with the original regulator on its last legs. Any suggested suppliers?

 

[Skyva_2]

Thanks all for v useful advice. Will look at the burners and arrange to change the regulator as it seems to be past its sell by date. Its not attached direct to the bottle but fixed to the locker bulkhead via a pigtail which has been renewed already.

Keith

 

[jfkal]

I am in Singapore. But as far as I recall there is a German online chandler either AWN or SVB who sells both 30 and 50 mmHg

Cheers

Joerg